what are good drop-in upgrade small parts?

[rivethead147]

i searched and searched and have not found a definitive answer. i am contemplating upgrading parts in my Para LTC stainless and have been searching for ideally drop-in replacements as my first go at parts change. the parts candidates i have are as follow;

STI Titanium Strut
Wilson Delux A-2 Sear
Wilson Tactical Mag Release
Wilson Bullet-Proof Firing Pin

also considering changing the FLGR to the Wilson SHOK-BUFF recoil system

has anyone tried this or any experience on what parts will or will not fit?

[atomemphis]

Look under the Sticky's for Modifications about EGW's Oversized Firing Pin Stop. Add that to your list, $15 for the blued one, $20 for stainless, requires light filing to round one edge and not much else.

Degree of Difficulty is very low.

Similarly, you can upgrade Mainspring Housing with a checkered/serrated/fishscaled/divotted unit by swapping with the existing, and while you are at it replace the mainspring if it is worn (or to change the weight - Ed Brown makes a kit). While you are there you can also change the mainspring cap to the EGW Titanium one as well.

There's no such thing as pure "drop-in" on a 1911 that I know of though, aside from maybe grips, and coil springs.

[DennisH87]

i recently upgraded my 1911 too. It started as a stock GI model with the exception of having a fitted beavertail.

Here's what I've done to mine:

Wilson combat bulletproof extractor (still need to install)

Wilson combat ETM 8 round mag

Wilson combat spring kit (includes 18.5 lbs recoil spring, increased power firing pin spring, and every other spring in the pistol)

Extended slide release and thumb safety

Kimber warrior grips

Commander hammer

arched mainspring housing

FLGR

Trijicon night sights

stainless plunger tube to match SS sliderelease and thumbsafety

Three hole trigger by i think wilson combat (can't remember)

Soon to come:

mag well

stainless allen head grip screws

All of those parts are drop in parts with the exception of the sights, plungertube, and thumb safety. The thumb safety needed a little filed off so it would clear.

http://www.blindhogg.com/index.html

Check this link out. This can help you with any type of fitting or gunsmithing on your 1911.


Hope this helps, Dennis

[kenhwind]

I've found the Wilson drop in grip safety to be very user friendly, but all guns are different to some degree.
Ken

[rivethead147]

awesome, thanks for your inputs, any additional input is always welcome!

[dewalt2]

I had great luck with my Taurus transformation. The parts from Cylinder and Slide were the only ones that actually "dropped in". The rest required some fitting. I have to say my PT1911 is an exceptional example, and exhibits none of the problems others have identified.
Here's my post from the Taurus Forum:

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=64284

Best of luck!

[rivethead147]

awesome, thanks a bunch to all. i think i will start with the firing pin stop mod described above and add the wilson bullet proof firing pin while i'm at it.

[John]

First of all, let's get one thing straight:

There are no drop-in parts for the 1911

With that clarified, I would question the reason for replacing those parts. For example:

- why do you want to replace the hammer strut in your pistol? Is it broken, bent or what? If nothing is wrong with that, why replace it?

- Sear: again, what's wrong with your sear? Replacing it means that you will need to have a trigger job done on your pistol. And since the sear is part of the firing mechanism, unless you know what you are doing, I wouldn't advise you to play the home-gunsmith and do it yourself. You may end up with a fully-automatic 1911, and you do not want that, trust me.

- Firing pin: again, what's the reason for changing this?

I can understand the tactical magazine release, I have those on both my pistols and I like them. Usually this is one of the items that should drop-in, but again read the bold letters above.

As for "changing the FLGR to the Wilson SHOK-BUFF recoil system" you must have something mixed up. SHOCK-BUFF is the name Wilson uses for those stupid plastic things that you put over your guide rod and which are supposed to reduce frame/slide battering. They do not replace the FLGR, they are used with the guide rod.

Since:

- I've never seen a scientific experiment which will tell me how much those gizmos reduce the impact of the slide on the frame,
- and since your pistol is a Commander-length one (meaning that it already has a reduced slide travel),

I wouldn't advise you to install those blue things in it. Change your recoil spring per the recommended number of rounds and your pistol will last you a life time.

Now, if the Shock Buffs were not what you were talking about, well, let me know what you meant and I'll get back to you.

[kenhwind]

awesome, thanks for your inputs, any additional input is always welcome!
El Commandante has a very valid point;
I grew up reading about guns and devoured everything I could find about them. My first gun magazine was Guns & Ammo, Colonel Jeff Cooper was the handgun editor and he made as lasting impression on me. I have the 1911 books and .45 Auto magazines that were published, was a USMC armorer, did a college term paper on the Government Model Pistol, and completed a correspondence course on gun repair.
With that said: “I’ve forgotten more than I remember”
Oh I read all those write ups on “you need this and you need that” and I believed some of it.
The aftermarket 1911 components industry exists for two reasons:
#1 to provide the custom pistol smith with the parts he might need to build a purpose specific firearm
#2 to vacuum you’re hard earned money out of your wallet. Business needs to support itself.
Let me explain; a beavertail grip is necessary for people who suffer hammer bite, it is very painful; an ambidextrous thumb safety is needed by lefties; I like the 1911 /medium length triggers, the factory triggers that are used are too long for me. Straight or curved mainspring housings are optional.
Thirty years ago we had to buy and install the high visibility “combat sights” that everyone takes for granted now.
Yes I’m running out of wind and almost finished.
My .45 Series 70 GM was purchased in 1972, with the exception of King’s hardball sights, beavertail grip safety, ambi-safety, straight mainspring housing, grips and springs it has all the original parts in it. The MKIV barrel bushing has been replaced and the dust cover is cracked, but that’s a different issue. This gun has been fired over a 100,000 times and after 37 years finally needs a barrel, but I can still use it.
I had extraction problems, bought a new Wilson extractor, and the Weigand extractor adjusting tool. I adjusted the old extractor and still use it.
If it works leave it alone.
“nuff said here”
What John says is true.
Ken
I would never change a plunger tube unless I had too.

[DennisH87]

:I would never change a plunger tube unless I had too.

It was cheap ($4) and came with a new spring which i needed. Also, the gunsmith probably isn't going to charge me anything to do it so why not?

[OD*]

:

It was cheap ($4) and came with a new spring which i needed. Also, the gunsmith probably isn't going to charge me anything to do it so why not?
Is the plunger tube currently on the pistol loose? If not, there isn't any reason to change it, unless you are having him change it just to change it.

[kenhwind]

:

It was cheap ($4) and came with a new spring which i needed.
It is cheap, plunger tubes sell for 12.00-20.00, a 4 dollar plunger is not an upgrade.
The best, in my opinion, plunger tube spring assembly is Colts.
Ken

[dewalt2]

My goal was to take a medium grade 1911 and turn it into a reliable, trouble free, recreational shooter. I wasn't building a "hot rod". I learned more about the inner workings of a 1911 by rebuilding my Taurus than I could have by a decade of reading.
I did extensive research before I started, and ended up with exactly with what I wanted to accomplish. It's a Taurus, why not!
I would never do these mods to my old Combat Commander, but on the Taurus it was a very rewarding experience.
My hat is off to anyone who undertakes and is successful in such an endeavor, it's a lot of work and sweat.
My Best,
Walt

[kenhwind]

Nobody implied you were wrong. OK
The only thing John and I and OD were trying to point out is that we have been there and done that.
OK
"If it ain't broken don't try to fix it"
OK
Its friday and I just had Wings and beer with my brother, and I am only trying to help.
The OP on this thread asked for input and it was delivered.
OK
Remember the KISS rule.
Goodnight
Love
Ken

[DennisH87]

hah, I'm not taking offense to anyone questioning why I'm changing the plunger tube, i just wanted it to match the thumb safety and slide release.

good luck to all and have a good night.

[kenhwind]

Dennis
Changing your plunger tube to SS is your perogative. It is a critical installation, and must be done properly. And is not a "drop-in upgrade"
We have many members here and some post can be misleading.
Go to Caspian Arms web site and read what they have to say about plunger tubes.
Ken
Did you edit your last post?

[Nathan]

i recently upgraded my 1911 too. . . .
Wilson combat bulletproof extractor (still need to install)

Wilson combat spring kit (includes 18.5 lbs recoil spring, increased power firing pin spring, and every other spring in the pistol)

Extended slide release and thumb safety

Commander hammer

arched mainspring housing

Trijicon night sights

stainless plunger tube to match SS sliderelease and thumbsafety

Three hole trigger by i think wilson combat (can't remember)

. . .

mag well


All of those parts are drop in parts with the exception of the sights, plungertube, and thumb safety.

In this quote, I have highlighted the parts which in my limited experience are NOT drop in. To me, drop in means, disassemble gun, reassemble with new part.

Putting the above parts in without at least detailed inspection will likely cause a performance decrease. I see this on a lot in used guns at the gun shop. I might even buy one, but at a salvage price!

For example, on a new extractor there are like 10+ surfaces which need to be fit for it to work right. Sure, they drop in, but so does the one you are putting in the trash.

Now, I do highly reccomend that if someone wants to gunsmith the 1911 that they spend time investigating it by reading 1000's of good posts and web pages on the topic. It is also important to preface that with reading the Kuhnhausen manuals cover to cover. Then, before you touch a gun, buy some needle files, 8" and 10" flat files, dykem blue or marksalot. and work on perfecting filing techniques. Most part fitting will require a good hand with assorted files, sandpaper, improvised sandpaper holding jigs, and stones. Just simply making a flat surface flat is a challenge. . .