Need Suggestions for my RIA GI

[rock_bond]

Had a bad range day yesterday. Somehow I let my skin get pinched between the hammer and the beavertail and had a lot of trouble shooting with the gi sights and a black silouette. So, I want to get an aftermarket beavertail so I won't be able to pinch myself again, plus i like the way they look and some night sights. I've heard that Im stuck with the sights because they're deeper thyan all other sights. is this true? help me out guys which beavertail and sights should i look into

[rock_bond]

Had a bad range day yesterday. Somehow I let my skin get pinched between the hammer and the beavertail and had a lot of trouble shooting with the gi sights and a black silouette. So, I want to get an aftermarket beavertail so I won't be able to pinch myself again, plus i like the way they look and some night sights. I've heard that Im stuck with the sights because they're deeper thyan all other sights. is this true? help me out guys which beavertail and sights should i look into

come on guys please, anything?

[Mark Phelps]

Quite a few people have been dropped the Fusion Firearms three dot sights on the GI. I'm considering it myself.

[rock_bond]

Quite a few people have been dropped the Fusion Firearms three dot sights on the GI. I'm considering it myself.

alright I'll look into them. thanks a lot. anyone have suffestions on a beavertail?

[Dave Berryhill]

Wilson, Ed Brown & S&A are all good.

[rock_bond]

Quite a few people have been dropped the Fusion Firearms three dot sights on the GI. I'm considering it myself.

Do you know which set it is? They have quite a few different set ups on their website. thanks

Cassidy Bond

[nightal]

I would call Wilson combat, I think I have read that they make a BTGS that is a real drop in part, with some of them you may have to alter the frame to make look right. I saw one just the other day on this forum someone had changed the hammer, trigger, grip safety, and sights.had the pics. of the wilson parts in their plastic bags.I changed to the Fusion 3 Dot combat sights two weeks ago I like them much better.

[nightal]

Fusion 3 Dot combat sku# 3Dot Mil, standard cut. call Bob at Fusion he will help you get all the right parts and combine the shipping, I ordered five different parts and the shipping was only $4.95.Wilson may do the same thing.

[rock_bond]

Fusion 3 Dot combat sku# 3Dot Mil, standard cut. call Bob at Fusion he will help you get all the right parts and combine the shipping, I ordered five different parts and the shipping was only $4.95.Wilson may do the same thing.

Thanks nightal, appreciate it much. I'll also give wilson a call about that "true" drop in beavertail. then Ill post pics in the RIA forum. woohoo

[rock_bond]

I would call Wilson combat, I think I have read that they make a BTGS that is a real drop in part, with some of them you may have to alter the frame to make look right. I saw one just the other day on this forum someone had changed the hammer, trigger, grip safety, and sights.had the pics. of the wilson parts in their plastic bags.I changed to the Fusion 3 Dot combat sights two weeks ago I like them much better.

also if you know the link to that RIA with the new hammer, sights, and beavertail can you send it to me or post it here. thanks

[Cap]

Rick, the Wilson "drop in" beavertail is this one

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16464&title=1911%20AUTO%20DROP-IN%20BEAVERTAIL%20GRIP%20SAFETY

I've installed them on both my GI Rocks
One required no fitting and "dropped in"
The other, on my 38 Super required minor fitting to engage properly.
There are instructions with the safety on where to file "if' needed.
if you do need minor fitting, don't file too much.
File, test, file a little more, test til you get proper function.
File too much, and you'll end up with a $40 paper weight
I don't think i needed to file more than .010 (10 thousandths)
(a human hair is about 3 thousandths thick)

you don't have to buy a new hammer, but you will have to bob the GI hammer.
it's just matter of cutting 1/8" off the end and will not hurt function


it will look something like this

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture489.jpg

You take metal off the back of safety to blend better with the frame.
It's a matter filing, shaping and finish sanding

this was the best "I" could before I lost patience and called it "good enough"

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture648.jpg


if i had it to over, I'd opt to buy a 250 radius beaver tail and jig.
But at the time, i was a buck rookie newbie doing my first mod and didn't feel comfortable with cutting the frame tangs.
I will eventually install a "non" drop in fitted safety.

hey, you wanna buy a stainless Wilson drop in already cut/blended to you Rock? :p


The sights are standard size , pretty sure that's .330 x 65 degree dovetail cut
They will likely require fitting to install.
Mine did.
The front post is a narrow tenon staked in type.
You need a sight staking tool to install them

i got lucky and new rear sight i installed happened to match right with the stock from post.
So just put a dot of paint on it to make easier/faster to see

You can help your GI sights with some paint dots too.
Testors model paint works.
Apply the paint dots with a tooth pic


..L.T.A.

[nightal]

Thanks Cap, for posting that it was not the one I saw the other day but I remember when you did that to yours, how is that polished slide holding up?

[Cap]

how is that polished slide holding up?

It's been nearly a year, but I'd have to say the jury is still out on the slide, Nightal.

cause truth is, I haven't shot it much since then.
(bought some new guns and like a fickle guy with new girlfriends, i was spending more time with them :D )

So I don't know how well the lacquer finish will hold up to regular use.
I tried Brownells spray clear coat finish first, but it wouldn't stick and just bubbled up on the polished steel.
But the spray lacquer when on smooth and looks great.

No pits, no rust concerns, but as i mentioned, I just don't know how well the lacquer will hold up to regular use.

'Bout the only thing I've done to test the finish was carry it for a week or two in a Galco Summer Comfort IWB and shoot a couple mags rapid fire to heat up the slide.
(and only shot maybe a total of 300 rnds since the finished project)
The lacquer shows no problems with that "very" minimal amount.

But long haul, i just don't know...


..L.T.A.

[rock_bond]

Rick, the Wilson "drop in" beavertail is this one

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16464&title=1911%20AUTO%20DROP-IN%20BEAVERTAIL%20GRIP%20SAFETY

I've installed them on both my GI Rocks
One required no fitting and "dropped in"
The other, on my 38 Super required minor fitting to engage properly.
There are instructions with the safety on where to file "if' needed.
if you do need minor fitting, don't file too much.
File, test, file a little more, test til you get proper function.
File too much, and you'll end up with a $40 paper weight
I don't think i needed to file more than .010 (10 thousandths)
(a human hair is about 3 thousandths thick)

you don't have to buy a new hammer, but you will have to bob the GI hammer.
it's just matter of cutting 1/8" off the end and will not hurt function


it will look something like this

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture489.jpg

You take metal off the back of safety to blend better with the frame.
It's a matter filing, shaping and finish sanding

this was the best "I" could before I lost patience and called it "good enough"

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i84/larycap/Picture648.jpg


if i had it to over, I'd opt to buy a 250 radius beaver tail and jig.
But at the time, i was a buck rookie newbie doing my first mod and didn't feel comfortable with cutting the frame tangs.
I will eventually install a "non" drop in fitted safety.

hey, you wanna buy a stainless Wilson drop in already cut/blended to you Rock? :p


The sights are standard size , pretty sure that's .330 x 65 degree dovetail cut
They will likely require fitting to install.
Mine did.
The front post is a narrow tenon staked in type.
You need a sight staking tool to install them

i got lucky and new rear sight i installed happened to match right with the stock from post.
So just put a dot of paint on it to make easier/faster to see

You can help your GI sights with some paint dots too.
Testors model paint works.
Apply the paint dots with a tooth pic


..L.T.A.

Thanks for information. I would buy that BT from you except I want it to be a blued finish. I guess I will try putting dots on the sights to see if that helps. I dont want to spend the money if a few dots will do the trick. The beavertail is a must though. I was trying to hold the firearms correctly according to a youtube video and got pinched pretty good. Anyway thanks again

Cassidy

[pdangeruss]

Brownells part numbers for low mount adjustable rear sights that use the RIA-GI factory front sight.

625-100-111= target
625-100-211= white outline
625-100-311= 3-dot


100-003-419=Adjustable Fiber-Optic Sight Set for existing RIA-GI dovetail and requires staking front sight (sights are .095 higher than factory to accommodate the fiber-optic insert and is a narrow tenon) I just ordered these for my GI.

Trijicon and Meprolite both make night sights that will fit, but the night sights require a special staking tool to avoid damaging the inserts during installation. The tool is about $250.00. So the slide must be sent in or taken to a gunsmith for installation. That makes them pretty pricey to have on an RIA.

[Mufassa]

Hey Rock, as far as beaver tails I have continuously heard that Ed Brown makes the best. They allow for the deepest high hold and have memory grooves, but they are not drop-ins. you either need to get a jig or have a smith cut your frame. My personal opinion is; drop-ins don't look as good. Just my 2 cents.

[rock_bond]

Hey Rock, as far as beaver tails I have continuously heard that Ed Brown makes the best. They allow for the deepest high hold and have memory grooves, but they are not drop-ins. you either need to get a jig or have a smith cut your frame. My personal opinion is; drop-ins don't look as good. Just my 2 cents.

I believe I agree with you on the Ed Brown looking better. I really don't want to shell out a lot of cash on this $400 handgun is the thing. If I could just drop one in that would protect my hand then that would be just fine. That being said I guess I will be going with the Wilson drop in and then maybe just dot my original GI sights, therefore I have to problem with the sights i just need some dots on there. If anyone else has anything to suggest thatd be great.

Cassidy Bond

[Cap]

I believe I agree with you on the Ed Brown looking better. I really don't want to shell out a lot of cash on this $400 handgun is the thing. If I could just drop one in that would protect my hand then that would be just fine. That being said I guess I will be going with the Wilson drop in and then maybe just dot my original GI sights, therefore I have to problem with the sights i just need some dots on there. If anyone else has anything to suggest thatd be great.

Cassidy Bond




another tip to help your stock sights
open up the rear notch width a few thousandths with a file.
.
It allows more light in between the front post and notch sight picture.
Faster to pick up/easier to see for speed drills.
I used the same post/notch width ratio as the stock sights on my Para.
if i recall, i filed off 5 thousandths off each side

if your gun shoots dead on windage wise now, be sure to use calipers to measure.
(you're only filing a hair's width off each side)
Precise equal measurement is important, or you'll change your point of aim.
Also, use a needle file with a non cutting side edge.
If you have to, you grind the cutting grooves off the thin edge of a cheap needle file
That way you won't accidentally cut the notch deeper, just wider.
You can buy a whole set of cheap needle files at Harbor Freight for a couple/three bucks.


I was in the same boat as you when i started.
Didn't want to spend much money on a $350 dollar gun
so i can dig it..




..L.T.A.

[rock_bond]

Brownells part numbers for low mount adjustable rear sights that use the RIA-GI factory front sight.

625-100-111= target
625-100-211= white outline
625-100-311= 3-dot


100-003-419=Adjustable Fiber-Optic Sight Set for existing RIA-GI dovetail and requires staking front sight (sights are .095 higher than factory to accommodate the fiber-optic insert and is a narrow tenon) I just ordered these for my GI.

Trijicon and Meprolite both make night sights that will fit, but the night sights require a special staking tool to avoid damaging the inserts during installation. The tool is about $250.00. So the slide must be sent in or taken to a gunsmith for installation. That makes them pretty pricey to have on an RIA.
does anyone have a picture with the above adjustable sights on their 1911? Im talking about the Brownell's LPA 625-100-*** sights? I am thinking about getting some of these for mine. thanks