View Full Version : After Market Baked on Finishes
EW1911
24th January 2009, 20:46
I just got an LTC. Wore it in a hoster with about an inch protuding an rubbed a "character" mark on the left side near the front site. Wrangler rivets are not recommended near a barrel. Can anyone who has used an aftermarket bake on finish point me in the right direction to learn the products, process etc.?
Rick McC.
29th January 2009, 14:21
If it's got a blue/black finish; you may want to try one of the "touch up" blue pens (or even a regular cold blue like Oxpho blue) prior to getting into a total refinish job. If you don't find one that matches close enough to suit you: you'll always have the total refinish available as a backup plan.
That's why I don't use the shorter length holsters/beltslides/etc. I don't like the idea of my front sight just hanging out unprotected, either.
Rick
EW1911
30th January 2009, 21:08
thanx Rick
Rick McC.
30th January 2009, 21:54
Sure thing! Let us know how it works out.
Take care,
Rick
tex45acp
30th January 2009, 23:07
EW,
You dont mention if your LTC is one of the lightweights with the alloy frame, but if it is use some of the Birchwood Casey Aluminum Black to repair the frame, if not the touch up pen should work fine.
Tex
markdavidson
31st January 2009, 11:53
as for the baked on finishes, look at the moly teflon from brownells. they have instructions as well as a video online. very durable, different colors, easy to use. I have a rifle in black and a muzzloader in OD green.
Dave Berryhill
31st January 2009, 12:15
A few tips: Surface prep is THE most important part of any of the spray and bake finishes. You need to clean, de-grease and blast with a sharp media such as aluminum oxide prior to coating. Phosphate (parkerizing) between the blasting and the coating steps will work even better.
Don't use glass beads for your blasting. The are little round balls and won't leave a rough enough surface for good adhesion. Aluminum oxide has sharp jagged edges that leave a much rougher surface on the metal.
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