My first trigger Job

[rem_kujawa]

I just finished and I got the pull from about 9 1/2# down to 5# with stock parts.It feels great. I also decided to take another look and why the trigger clicks. I found that with the recoil spring removed the disconnect would try to move the slide. So I tool a dremel with a round stone that with the same width as the slot and polished it. Then made sure it passed all of the safety test and it did. Next stop it the range

[niemi24s]

I found that with the recoil spring removed the disconnect would try to move the slide.Because the normal resting place for the disconnector nose is in the front half of the arc of the slot in the slide, there is a natural tendency for it to move the slide forward.

Smoothing the slot just makes it easier for the slide to move forward along the disconnector's nose.

Too much lengthening of this slot in the forward direction will prevent the disconnector from doing its job of disconnecting when it should. If your gun gets disconnected when it should that's a good thing because if the slot got moved forward too much, correction would involve some welding and mill work.

But, I suppose you knew all that before plugging in the Dremel. But if you didn't, JMB was probably looking over your shoulder. :D

[rem_kujawa]

I did not make it longer just more of a polish job, I have three 1911's and this is the only one that did it. After I followed the functions test to the letter and it past with flying color's.

[niemi24s]

Then again, having a smooth disconnector slot would reduce wear on the doconnector's nose a little bit - as long as the rail ahead of it was smooth too.

[rem_kujawa]

what would you recomend for polishing the center rail? Stone? JB

[niemi24s]

I usually use 320 or 400 grit silicon carbide wet or dry abrasive cloth backed up with a popsicle stick to keep it flat. It doesn't have to shine, just knock off the high spots. And don't alter the chamfer where the rail meets the breechface.

[rem_kujawa]

Great thank you niemi