Recoil spring problem

[webtaz99]

I have a new homebrew 1911. I am noticing some slide binding, and the recoil spring plug is getting chewed up. My recoil spring is visibly kinking. I have read a lot of stuff by gunsmiths and others who insist that a full-length guide does no good, but what else would keep the spring from kinking?

[John]

The question is, why is the spring kinking? Or is it damaged already?

[webtaz99]

I have only fired about 100 rounds in this piece. I can't see any damage to the spring - I think it's just cheap. If I assemble the slide with the barrel, spring, guide and plug, ready to slide the frame on, I can see the spring kinking badly, especially right where it exits the plug.

[John]

As a first step, you might want to replace that spring with something of better quality. I use ISMI springs, but you can also use Wolff or Wilson's.

Rgds

[stans]

Also make sure you are putting the closed end (coils are slightly smaller in diameter) on the guide rod and not in the plug. Once a coil spring kinks, it is weak and will always kink.

[usajeep1]

You might want to count the number of coils in the spring, some springs are longer than others and you have to size them (cut off coils on th open end). Just a thought...jeep...

[Harlie]

Something, since when did we start putting the spring assembly in before installing the slide. The only spring assembly part going in before slide is replaced is the guide rod. Spring, plug go in after slide and slide stop are in place, with pistol cocked, safety applied, 1911 setting on butt with barrel pointing up, inserting spring and plug, depressing plug to allow bushing to be turned to hold assembly. Spring kinking is a guarantee otherwise. This isn't a BHP type set up. Read the manual.

[usajeep1]

Harlie, I dont think he has a manual for this particular '1911', as he states "I have a new homebrew 1911". Some of these 'homebrews', have a set up to where the take down and reassembly is not exactly the same. I know that Kimber has at least 3 different '1911' models that have different procedures...jeep...

[webtaz99]

I went ahead and got a full length guide. I don't care if it aids accuracy (I doubt it will), I don't know if it will make the piece more durable (probably not), but one thing is FOR SURE. I don't feel the {new} spring binding anymore.

As far as needing a "tool", I use the slide stop. Now I assemble the bbl, guides and spring into the slide, then add the frame (or the reverse when breaking down). It may not be "in the manual", but it works.

[John]

If your spring was damaged to start with, I would suggest that you get a new spring no matter if it binds with the guide rod or not.

[chuckshoun]

Springs are about the cheapest part of a pistol. I wouldn't get into a hissy-fit over a spring, I'd just get a new good one to relplace the old one and step out smartly with a sense of urgency!

[Harlie]

Amazes when people continue to do the wrong thing, just to say "Look it works", when in fact it can be done, but why would you. With a standard recoil rod a "Tool" is not needed. A new spring is required, even with the full length rod. But, heh, if it works for you, do it. But don't ask for help or why the spring kinked in the first place. Any one who can "build a 1911" shouldn't have had the experience of kinking the spring to begin with. Good luck in all your future endeavor, you'll need it. Harlie

[webtaz99]

The guide came with 2 new springs. I tossed the old one.