View Full Version : Gun Kote
ScottT
1st July 2005, 23:29
Well, i tried to coat my melt bushing with gun kote this afternoon. I sanded it down with 100 grit sandpaper. Put on some gloves and scrubbed it with some simple green, sprayed it with mce and got it ready to paint. I sprayed on 2 coats, allowing it to dry 30 minutes before each coat. After that, i stuck it the oven at 300 degrees for 60 minutes. It sure did come out looking nice. As i was putting the bushing back in the slide, i noticed the paint starting to chip. Using my fingernail, i was able to remove every piece of paint! bummer! so, what did i do wrong? thank god i didn't paint the whole gun! i am using gloss black gun kote that i got from brownells in a spray can.
:wl:
You are a new user, so you do not know that bragging is strongly encouraged here.
BGregory
2nd July 2005, 07:27
The part needs to be sand blasted first. The second step is to rinse with acetone. Gun Kote will chip at the sharp edges, no matter what, from what I have seen and heard.
My attempt at using Gun Kote can be seen here: http://forum.m1911.org/showpost.php?p=31476&postcount=20
The slide was starting to look ugly, so I decided to fix it up myself.
If your part is carbon steel, not stainless, may I suggest that you just blue it. There are several blues on the market that are easy to work with. Blue Wonder works well, it's expensive compared to others and requires a lot of prep, but the results are worth it.
chuckshoun
2nd July 2005, 13:36
Polish the sucker and boy, it will look prettier than chipped paint.
ScottT
2nd July 2005, 22:12
After further review (getting ready for the 2005 season!), I have decided to try the Blue Wonder. I drove on down to the local Gander Mountain and purchased some. Hopefully this will turn out better. I already applied it and will let it dry overnight. say a small prayer for me! Thanks for the replies.
Is this the suggested procedure? Let the gun dry with the blueing solution overnight? I mean the blueing solution is actually rusting the gun, as far as I can tell you are supposed to remove it by rinsing the pistol as soon as the blueing is done, or else it continues to rust.
I'll wait to hear the results.
BGregory
3rd July 2005, 11:48
Is this the suggested procedure? Let the gun dry with the blueing solution overnight? I mean the blueing solution is actually rusting the gun, as far as I can tell you are supposed to remove it by rinsing the pistol as soon as the blueing is done, or else it continues to rust.
I'll wait to hear the results.Yes, it is. Blue Wonder uses a cleaner to prep the surface and then you use the bluing solution. The final step is to apply a developer that you let sit for some time. Each of the first 2 steps requires that you heat the piece to open the "pores" of the metal.
BGregory
3rd July 2005, 11:50
After further review (getting ready for the 2005 season!), I have decided to try the Blue Wonder. I drove on down to the local Gander Mountain and purchased some. Hopefully this will turn out better. I already applied it and will let it dry overnight. say a small prayer for me! Thanks for the replies.As long as the part is carbon and not stainless steel, it should come out fine. I've redone several small parts with it, with good results.
gottripletsNC
3rd July 2005, 12:27
I put GunKote on mine as a temporary fix, but I will send mine back to Springfield for it to be bead blast blued.
The gunkote will flake, no matter how well you prep it, its will wear on the edges...
stans
7th July 2005, 07:45
Gunkote also needs to be applied to a warm surface, so parts must be preheated to about 150F in an oven (drives out the moisture trapped in the surface of the metal and expands the pores, lightly coated, then baked.
ABQShooter
11th July 2005, 19:53
A very good quality durable finish, that comes in many different colors, and is easy to apply is Duracaot from Lauer Custom Weaponry ( lauerweaponry.com). It's very easy to apply, and has a very reasonable price to go along with it.
3006mv
9th October 2005, 02:37
bead blast, clean w/ acetone heat to 95 degrees w/ hairdryer, paint, 30 min. between coats, cook at 350 degrees for 30 minutes, then let cool, let it cure for a week before you install or get oil or cleaner on it.
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