Full length guide

[Randall]

OK, so how many of you are full length recoil
spring guide believers? I had replaced the standard
#16 spring for a #18, but switched back. I did however,
keep the FLG in favor of the original short guide, to preserve
the life of the spring. Opinions welcome. This is really
a great site.

[Hawkmoon]

I did however,
keep the FLG in favor of the original short guide, to preserve
the life of the spring. Opinions welcome. This is really
a great site.
I know some people like the FLGR because they think the extra weight helps reduce muzzle flip. But ... preserve the life of the spring? How can a FLGR in any way preserve the life of the spring? The slide moves the same distance each time you fire the gun.

I fear someone has sold you another urban legend.

[Randall]

Hi Hawkmoon,
I too, questioned my smith about the very
fact you presented. He stated that a FLG merely keeps
a recoil spring from "binding" in the spring channel. I can see that
in a way. As an avid 1911 fan , I am trying new things and seeing what I can build with.Time to head to the range. Thanks for the help and great talking to you!

[El Gato]

Hates the flgr... hates it we does... nasty sneaky things what clog up the dissassmbly process and want to come unscrewed during the firing process (springfield)... an ugly piece of business that... one needs to find a proper place for them...the parts drawer....
The Springer quit having feeding problems the day I took the flgr out and placed it in the little plastic drawer....
But that is just my opinion...

[gkelley3]

My Kimber has the full length guide rod, neither of my Springfields do.

I really don't notice a difference when I fire it.

So far I haven't had any issues with it, other than it being slightly more difficult to assemble/disassemble. (Not hard, but my thumb really appreciates the barrel bushing tool).

[amd5007]

My Kimber is stock with the one-piece guide rod.

My Springfield GI has the normal configuration.

I've built two 1911s and used each system in each 1911 because, while I wouldn't use a two-piece guide rod, I think that anything that solidly sits in the recoil spring channel can't mess up the operation of the pistol. With that said, I have never had or heard of a case where a spring was binding in the GI set up that wasn't caused by a fluke in the frame or slide, case in point, my first build used an Essex frame and slide and it turns out the slide was machined about 1/16" off center and when you tried to lock the slide back the spring would binding jamming up the hole pistol.

I like both those systems and I don't think the FLGR is more difficult to disassemble, I just use the heel of a magazine to depress the recoil plug than flip the bushing around. That's my 2 cents anyway.

[Iron bottom]

I use them and know they smooth out the cycle of a 1911. Sig, HK, Glock, S&W, CZ and others use them without problems. The only things I have noticed about them is that some do not seat in the frame correctly. But gun parts not fitting is nothing new. :D Make sure the flange is making contact with the frame. Plus, make sure there is no binding between the rod and spring plug.

[Hawkmoon]

Hi Hawkmoon,
He stated that a FLG merely keeps
a recoil spring from "binding" in the spring channel. I can see that
in a way.
I knew you were going to say that. The usual story is the FLGR prevents the spring from "kinking" inside the gun. So put your pistol together with NO guide rod, slide the spring in from the front, and then look inside with a flashlight. You tell me exactly where the spring can move sideways (either side) or up, or down, far enough to kink or bind.

It can't happen. That's a myth propagated by gunsmiths who make money selling full-length guide rods.

[log man]

I use the one piece FLGR in 12- 1911's, 1-2011, a Berreta Brigadier, an X-D, an H&K Elite, a P7M8, but I don't use them in my revolvers, can't find any place to stick them. Watch it now.

LOG

[Hawkmoon]

Use what makes you happy, Log Man. I'm just saying that the recoil spring is held captive in all directions inside that tunnel even with a standard GI guide rod. There is no way the spring can kink or bind ... at least, no way that would in any way be alleviated solely by a FLGR. If you have a gun that's kinking recoil springs, you have problems that a FLGR will not solve.

Check out STI's animation of the 1911 in action ... here http://www.m1911.org/STI1911animation2.htm. Click on the image to get the full-screen version. Once it starts running, click the top two boxes at lower left to split the slide and the frame. This will show the relationship of the spring to the slide, frame and barrel. Keep in mind this shows STI's RecoilMaster dual spring setup. The standard recoil spring is the diameter of the larger spring in the animation. Envision that spring running the full length ... then tell me how it can possibly kink in there.

If you've ever played with springs, you know that a coil spring has to get pretty far off-axis before it can be made to kink. There simply isn't any space in the pistol for that to take place.

[log man]

Use what makes you happy, Log Man.

Thanks Hawk, the support is appreciated and being happy is good also. The OP just seemed to want to know how many believed in using the FLGR. I've never thought it had the capability to prevent something that wasn't happening otherwise. A recoil spring is most often kinked during a botched installation attempt by the user, whether rod and plug or FLGR.

So I was just trying to get the count up by listing the non-1911's and pointing out subtly that most non-1911 pistols do use a FLGR. And nobody has yet to come up with a GI set up for that market. I guess the P7M8 listing wasn't as funny as I thought. I don't own any Glocks though.

Since removal is identical either way I like the option of removing the top end by simply removing the slide stop pin. Leaving the slide, barrel, recoil spring, guide and rod as a unit. Makes tearing down to the frame a lot easier when fitting parts.

LOG

[berkbw]

I have SEEN the wear left by recoil springs in the dust cover. I have not seen any measurable difference in function [in standard 1911s].

b-

[Side Armed]

Not to beat a dead horse, but I too was searching for the answer to this FLGR/GI guide rode question. Seems the answers I got from a few smiths; some are very much against it, and some others are for it, and yet some can go either way. A never ending debate

I played around with one piece & two piece FLGR, and a standard guide rod in the same pistol. Was late springer loaded model (comes factory with the 2 piece).
Seemed to make no difference in function or performance. I have nothing aftermarket on the weapon and each setup performed with no malfunctions. I did not feel a noticeable amount of weight added or muzzle flip reduction in any setup.
After the test, I stuck with the standard guide rod. The runner up would be the one piece as the two piece did start to come loose after 50 rds. An easy fix with locktite or alternative? probably

With that said, aftermarket springs with aftermarket tensions is another story. We have a custom nighthawk that uses a 2 piece FLGR and feels slugish if it is replaced with a standard length. Still functions fine though.
If you are thinking of changing out a guide rod I would be swayed to stick with what the manufacturer recommends.

my .02