Reamer Cutting Oil

[Bearbait in NM]

I just picked up a Clymer finish reamer in 45acp, and have spent a fair amount of time researching, so I use it properly. One question, that I did not see any answers to is choice of cutting oil. Do any of you have any prefered brand or recipe? I have my Brownell's tap oil, but it is a pretty small bottle, and I am guessing I will need more, perhaps something I have, or can find in my little town.

Thanks,

Craig

[wjkuleck]

I just picked up a Clymer finish reamer in 45acp, and have spent a fair amount of time researching, so I use it properly. One question, that I did not see any answers to is choice of cutting oil. Do any of you have any prefered brand or recipe? I have my Brownell's tap oil, but it is a pretty small bottle, and I am guessing I will need more, perhaps something I have, or can find in my little town.

Thanks,

Craig

"A good sulphur-based cutting oil" is how I put it in my books. Specifically, I use Brownells' UNIVERSAL DO-DRILL (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1120&title=UNIVERSAL%20DO-DRILL).

Regards,

Walt

[niemi24s]

"A good sulphur-based cutting oil" is how I put it in my books.
Is this the best stuff even if the reamer is hand-turned?

[Even though hand-turning won't get anything hot enough so it gives off that delightful aroma! :p ]

[Greg Derr]

If hand cutting a chamber- the cutting oil is important for keeping the chips from the cutting blades. I tend to flood lubricate. By that I mean that the fluid is being pumped into the chamber while I'm cutting.

[wjkuleck]

If hand cutting a chamber- the cutting oil is important for keeping the chips from the cutting blades. I tend to flood lubricate. By that I mean that the fluid is being pumped into the chamber while I'm cutting.

Most home hobbyists will be finish reaming a short chamber. If you're starting from a piloted rough chambering reamer in an unchambered barrel, not only is flooding a good idea, a lathe is, too :D .

Regards,

Walt

[Bearbait in NM]

Thank you gentlemen. I too wondered exactly the dynamics of the cutting oil. It is obvious for for cooling, in some applications. I had not read that it is needed to keep the chips from wrecking the blades, but that does make a bit of sense. I checked the local hardware store yesterday, and nothing that they have list the ingrediants (base) of any oil. And, the store person said 3in1 would work. I told him what I was doing, and he at least backed off the 3in1.

I'll use the bottle that came with my Brownells die set, and pick up a bigger bottle of WJ's recommendation. I'll give myself one run at a junk barrel first. I think the hardest part for me will be to remember that it is not a tap, and I must not rotate counter-clock-wise.

Thanks again,

Craig

[Iron bottom]

It is my understanding that the sulfur in cutting oil reacts with steel to form pyrite (FES2) or fools gold. This process supposedly softens steel to make machining or threading easier. I have heard the grade of steel pipe used for threaded joints refered to as resulfurized steel. No mention of extra sulfur in weld pipe though. Remember, I have no credible source for this information. Take it for what it is worth.

I believe some cutting oils are animal fat and may be septic, so be careful.

Mr. Schuemann does discuss sulfur in barrel steel on his site in detail, if this interests anyone.

[Greg Derr]

Flood lubrication keeps the steel chips from scraping the area you cut as they are swept by the next blade. Most cutters are hard enough to resist dulling from the material they cut. Yes a lathe is the best method since it will allow concentricity to the bore.

[berkbw]

>I< use grease. You're not, I hope, removing that much - gtease will help you pull the shavings out with the reamer.

b-

[Bearbait in NM]

Thanks for everyone's input. I do need to hijack my own thread, if I may.

Upon inspecting the reamer and parts (a Clymer finish reamer), the pilot measures .450 to the penny. This is obviously enough clearance to to clear the grooves, but not enough to clear the lands. Am I suposed to turn the pilot down to fit? I did not see a collection of pilot sizes on Brownell's website, so I am a bit confused.

Thanks,

Craig