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proudpapa
10th September 2008, 10:39
I have a grip screw that I am unable to get out. It's not the screw itself that is stripped out it's the part where you put the hex key in the head that is worn. What is the best way for me to remove it?

Tom
10th September 2008, 10:44
Hmmm. Tough one.

You can see if a small-blade flathead screwdriver can be wedged inside the hex hole enough to unscrew the screw. Or maybe the next sized up Allen wrench might fit if the hole has been enlarged.

Short of that, the only thing I can think of would be to cut a slot across the entire head of the screw and use a flathead screwdriver. But cutting that slot might damage the grip itself, so I'd only consider that as a last resort.

MoneyTree
10th September 2008, 11:18
I have a grip screw that I am unable to get out. It's not the screw itself that is stripped out it's the part where you put the hex key in the head that is worn. What is the best way for me to remove it? I've had luck removing several hexhead screws that have the same issue ( not on pistols though ) using an easy out type tool . Finding one small enough may be a problem though . Here's a Sears link of the type of tool I'm talking about .

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00966196000P?mv=rr

.

berkbw
10th September 2008, 11:50
did you notice any loc-tite on the one that you removed? If so, you might want to heat it up a bunch, let it cool, then try some more. If you have a left-hand drill bit, you can try that from the top. If you have a vise, good control, and a long sharp small bit, you can drill it from the other side.

Sears sells some stuff that is supposed to work for stripped screw heads - never worked for me.

b-

niemi24s
10th September 2008, 12:24
Three things to be aware of if you've never used an easy-out:

• Drilling the hole for the easy-out will tend to tighten the grip screw in its bushing. Minimize this tightening by using a new, sharp drill bit. Carefully control it so it doesn't get stuck, try to "hog in", or (gasp!) break off in the screw.

• When turned CCW (anticlockwise) the easy-out screws itself a little into the hole drilled for it in order to get a bite. In doing so, it tends to slightly expand the screw. This slightly expanded screw may cause the bushing to unscrew with it.

• Freezing the screw to shrink it a little inside the bushing may help the easy-out do its job without also unscrewing the bushing. This can be done with wart freezing stuff such as Compound W's "Freeze Off", which reaches about -55°F/-48°C. Work fast when using this stuff - cooling the bushing will also make it unscrew easier, even if it's well staked in the frame.

Good luck

MoneyTree
10th September 2008, 12:45
Three things to be aware of if you've never used an easy-out:

• Drilling the hole for the easy-out will tend to tighten the grip screw in its bushing. Minimize this tightening by using a new, sharp drill bit. Carefully control it so it doesn't get stuck, try to "hog in", or (gasp!) break off in the screw.

• When turned CCW (anticlockwise) the easy-out screws itself a little into the hole drilled for it in order to get a bite. In doing so, it tends to slightly expand the screw. This slightly expanded screw may cause the bushing to unscrew with it.

• Freezing the screw to shrink it a little inside the bushing may help the easy-out do its job without also unscrewing the bushing. This can be done with wart freezing stuff such as Compound W's "Freeze Off", which reaches about -55°F/-48°C. Work fast when using this stuff - cooling the bushing will also make it unscrew easier, even if it's well staked in the frame.

Good luck Very useful information niemi24s . I just saved this post in my Useful Tips folder in Eudora . A fellow could write a book just using all the wisdom and experience posted here but of course it would be a legal nightmare getting permission to quote each post used .

log man
10th September 2008, 12:47
The easy-out in the hex is the ticket, another way I've done it is to dip the tip of the Allen wrench in super glue and insert it in the socket, give it a few minutes to set before turning and, Bingo!

LOG

MoneyTree
10th September 2008, 12:54
....another way I've done it is to dip the tip of the Allen wrench in super glue and insert it in the socket, give it a few minutes to set before turning and, Bingo!

LOG This sounds like the safest method to me and the least likely to damage the stock .

proudpapa
10th September 2008, 12:56
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I got the screw out and to avoid the issue in the future as soon as I can get some I will switch to flat head screws.

log man
10th September 2008, 13:43
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I got the screw out and to avoid the issue in the future as soon as I can get some I will switch to flat head screws.

I'm sure you meant slotted screws which are fine for a retro look. The socket head screw should never be a problem IF the correct size Allen wrench is used and not over tightened. The best insurance for snug grips, and the screws not binding is to use an o-ring on the screw.

LOG

niemi24s
10th September 2008, 14:04
I have a dim recollection of somebody offering grip screws with Torx drive heads - or is this a figment of my imagination?

If so, Torx heads are a lot harder to goof up than hex heads. They're nearly as good as the Bristol Spline drive system, but I really doubt if anyone will offer these in a grip screw. Torque-Set screws would be good too, but who'd buy them?

log man
10th September 2008, 14:46
I have a dim recollection of somebody offering grip screws with Torx drive heads - or is this a figment of my imagination?

If so, Torx heads are a lot harder to goof up than hex heads. They're nearly as good as the Bristol Spline drive system, but I really doubt if anyone will offer these in a grip screw. Torque-Set screws would be good too, but who'd buy them?

Torx drive are standard on Springfields and are also available from Brownells, but I don't care for the head profile.

LOG

MoneyTree
10th September 2008, 14:51
I have a dim recollection of somebody offering grip screws with Torx drive heads - or is this a figment of my imagination?...I saw them too , on the Wicked Grips site .

http://www.wickedgrips.com/1911-grip-screw/

.

niemi24s
10th September 2008, 15:23
Hi Log Man & MoneyTree:

Thanks for the responses.

I guess my imagination must have had that figment about something else, eh?

Cheers

Jolly Rogers
10th September 2008, 20:35
Niemi...4 words...left handed drill bits.
Fixes about 90% of my broken/stripped fasteners at work (auto tech). Try a set you will be amazed. Most will unscrew before you even expect it! The set I use has easyouts and left handed bits to match for each size. Found it on a Mac/Matco/Snap-On truck. I'll check tomorrow for the exact brand. Don't think I've ever used the easyouts included.
Galled or crossthreaded applications need not apply. They act like they are welded in place. :eek:
Joe

niemi24s
10th September 2008, 20:47
Jolly Rogers...4 words...me get some soon!

They sound like a very good investment. Thanks for the tip.

Cheers

berkbw
10th September 2008, 21:43
I guess you didn't notice my mention back in #3 or #4, eh? :)

b-

niemi24s
10th September 2008, 22:30
Guess I did, but that was way back this morning fer pity's sake! :o

Cheers

Jolly Rogers
11th September 2008, 08:16
I guess you didn't notice my mention back in #3 or #4, eh? :)

b-

Ummm...Yeah, me too :butthead:

Just got caught up in Niemi's good general advice and wanted to give another angle. His experiences match mine to a tee.

It is a Mac tools set #6310LHDES includes 5 LH bits from 3/32" to 3/8" with matching extractor for each size. Cobalt bits too. Should be able to get it from Mac tools online but phone orders work also if you don't have access to a tool truck near your locaton. No affiliation etc., just a satisfied user.
Joe

Pappy
11th September 2008, 11:41
Thanks to everyone for their suggestions. I got the screw out and to avoid the issue in the future as soon as I can get some I will switch to flat head screws.

Please, please, tell us how you did it......

MoneyTree
11th September 2008, 16:04
Guess I did, but that was way back this morning fer pity's sake! :o

CheersNow you're sounding like me :D , my wife says I have selective hearing but it's really sometimers disease . ;)

CZJedi
11th September 2008, 21:37
Torx drive are standard on Springfields and are also available from Brownells, but I don't care for the head profile.

LOG

I had the Brownell's ones, and didn't care for them. The head kept slipping out when any amount of pressure was used.

berkbw
14th September 2008, 21:53
you CAN buy good ones. you know.. grade 8.

b-

proudpapa
14th September 2008, 23:43
Please, please, tell us how you did it......




I used a slightly larger hex key and "gently" tapped it in with a small hammer.

berkbw
15th September 2008, 03:51
That has worked worked for me me.

niemi24s
15th September 2008, 20:29
I had the Brownell's {[Torx drive]} ones, and didn't care for them. The head kept slipping out when any amount of pressure was used.
Other than a poorly made/formed screw head recess, it could be you have a driver with a slight taper. These, IIRC, are called either Torx-Aline or Sel-O-Fit bits and are made for production line use.

They're slightly tapered from a little less to a little more than the Torx standard to hold the screw on the bit with a wedging action. Their smaller tips probably won't work well on screws with a shallow recess.

Or, maybe your drive bit isn't tapered - just poorly made - or the wrong size.

Or something else. :D