How do I touch up bluing after gunwork?

[robinson217]

I really want to get a Colt 1991 and put a few simple custom features on it to personalize it. (Sights, grips etc...) The one thing I really want though is a beavertail. I don't care for the look of the drop ins, and as an aircraft mechanic with machine tool experience, I think I can successfully cut and file the frame myself with a jig.

Here is the question: If I get a blued one (which I would prefer), how do I touch it up?. I'm leery of "cold Blues" as I have heard they can promote rust. The color shouldn't be a big deal, because if I do it right, the beavertail will hide the area. So what can I put on there to prevent rust? Is there a particular brand of cold blue that actually protects the surface? My cursory search under "cold Blue" brought up lots of threads, but little confidence.

Should I just get a stainless one instead? :confused:

P.S. this will be my first 1911. Saving up now, hope to buy before year's end.

[Hawkmoon]

Brownells Oxpho-Blue

[emilio]

cold blue is fine for touch-up, you just gotta know how to get good results. it's like any rust bluing and needs carding (light polish to remove the rust that forms) between applications. i usually clean up the area with fine steel wool or crocus cloth, clean with alcohol, lightly heat up the area with a torch lighter, and apply the cold blue with a patch by rubbing the area with some pressure. then i wipe the area with a wet patch (alcohol or water), rubbing very firmly to polish off some of the rust. i'll repeat the heat/blue/rinse/polish until i get the color i want. after the final coat, dry, polish lightly, and apply oil.

it's obviously not as good as a complete refinish, or even a tank touch-up, but it's also <$10 a bottle and very easy to do.

- emilio

[log man]

........ i usually clean up the area with fine steel wool or crocus cloth, ...........
- emilio

Clean yes, heat maybe, but steel wool or crocus cloth, never! Unless of course you want to alter or remove the existing finish.

LOG

[grendelbane]

Wax over cold blue will help to protect both the new cold blue finish, and to protect the metal from corrosion.

Cold blue is not real pretty, but in your case it sounds like the easiest thing to do, and should work out just fine. The Oxypho-Blue is about as good as it gets.

[robinson217]

Wax over cold blue will help to protect both the new cold blue finish, and to protect the metal from corrosion.

Cold blue is not real pretty, but in your case it sounds like the easiest thing to do, and should work out just fine. The Oxypho-Blue is about as good as it gets.

Yeah, when I was a kid my Dad's 30-30 got severe moisture damage. It was pitted and everything. He was going to toss it, but I talked him into letting me refinish it.

I wire brushed the whole thing, including the internal parts, and then did a complete blue job with Berchwood Casey. Its a wall hangar now. But I waxed it and there has been no more rust, even though its in my garage.

I'm just not sure what I think of using that stuff on a gun I actually intend to USE.

Maybe I'll test it on my .22 .....and use a good brand this time, like Oxypho-Blue.

Since I started this thread, Ive found a few gunsmiths that do the whole gun pretty reasonable. Maybe thats the way to go.

[Joshua M. Smith]

I use Birchwood Casey as a dunk. It comes out looking very nice.

Just remember that any type of traditional bluing is just controlled rust. The oxidization holds oil, and that's what keeps it from rusting further.

Josh <><