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Suburban
27th August 2008, 02:15
I read on one website that there is a taper at the muzzle end of the chamber that needs to be reamed out. The instructions, and several other articles on the same barrel make no mention of chamber reaming.

Do I need to order a reamer? I'm confused.

leam
27th August 2008, 05:07
My bet is no. The whole point behind the Kart Easy Fit is that you just need to trim the extra lumps on the top to get a perfect fit.

Kart does make a Precision barrel that requires fitting of the lower lug, and machining your frame *IF* you try to put a ramped barrell in a non-ramped frame.

Leam

wjkuleck
27th August 2008, 08:26
I read on one website that there is a taper at the muzzle end of the chamber that needs to be reamed out. The instructions, and several other articles on the same barrel make no mention of chamber reaming.

Do I need to order a reamer? I'm confused.

The Kart "Precision" barrel does require finish reaming. However, the product description in Brownells for the EZ-Fit (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7611&title=1911%20AUTO%20EASY%20FIT%20KART%20BARREL%20K IT) ("only four simple hand tools") strongly implies that finish reaming is not required.

A reamer wouldn't be a bad idea if you contemplate doing more barrels in the future. It's an expensive tool for a "nice to have."

Regards,

Walt

1911Tuner
27th August 2008, 09:45
My bet is no.

You just might lose that bet, m'fren.

Kart barrels are consistently short-throated. That is...the leade just forward of the chamber throat...not the barrel ramp. If all you plan to shoot is factory jacketed bullet ammo...you probably won't have a single issue. If you handload semi wadcutters with a shoulder...you might find that the occasional round won't let the slide go to battery due to the shoulder being jammed into the leade. It depends on how much shoulder you leave past the case mouth, and the length of the case itself.
With a case length of .890 and a 200-grain #68 seated to 1.25 inch...you're probably gonna have a problem, especially if the static headspace dimension is .898-903 inch...or near minimum.

Even with hardball, if you seat the bullet too far out at maximum spec you can run into a problem when the barrel starts to get dirty.


All Kart barrels...whether hard fit or Easy-Fit (TM)...are identical in every way except for the external, oversized areas of the hard-fit. Internally, there is no difference.

I lightly finish ream every Kart barrel that I use in order to clean up the leade and make the transition from chamber to full rifling a little less abrupt. Chamber depth isn't increased more than a thousandth or two, and the barrel accepts varied bullet shapes and seating depths much more reliably.

RickB
27th August 2008, 10:58
I have well over 5000 rounds through an ez-fit, mostly Masterblasters "spire points", which are a round-nose semi-wadcutter, with no problems. I suppose it would be possible to load them long enough to create problems, but that's true of any shouldered bullet. The chamber may be shorter or tighter than some drop-in barrels (chambers can go as long as .920" and still be within spec), but rounds that will not drop into my Midway case gauge still easily chamber in the Kart barrel(s).

log man
27th August 2008, 10:59
I very much concur with Tuner, as I have yet to see a new barrel chamber with enough leade or free bore and the transition to the lands is abrupt. Wil Schuemann told me he never installs a barrel in his guns that haven't been reamed with a chamber reamer, for this reason,while .100" is considered enough Wil recommends .200" of free bore as this will reduce chamber pressure and not effect velocity nor accuracy. Irv Stone, Bar-Sto, agrees that his semi drop-in and of course oversize barrels should be finish reamed even if the head space is correct. Both Clymer and Mason finish reamers have integral throaters, and can be used for this purpose without increasing head space.

Tuner is correct that a case length of .890" and a 200-grain #68 seated to 1.45 inch..... even 1.25 inch will give you a problem. Hmmm... my mags aren't big enough for Tuner's load, but then neither are my shoes. LOL

LOG

wjkuleck
27th August 2008, 12:25
I lightly finish ream every Kart barrel that I use in order to clean up the leade and make the transition from chamber to full rifling a little less abrupt. Chamber depth isn't increased more than a thousandth or two, and the barrel accepts varied bullet shapes and seating depths much more reliably.

Good info on the Karts. Since I always (except for chrome-lined barrel) do at least a clean-up reaming on gas gun barrels, I have a .45 ACP reamer and do the same with .45 barrels. Just haven't had the opportunity to use a Kart EXZ Fit, though I have used the Kart Precision.

Thanks!

Walt

Suburban
27th August 2008, 12:32
The Kart "Precision" barrel does require finish reaming. However, the product description in Brownells for the EZ-Fit (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=7611&title=1911%20AUTO%20EASY%20FIT%20KART%20BARREL%20K IT) ("only four simple hand tools") strongly implies that finish reaming is not required.

A reamer wouldn't be a bad idea if you contemplate doing more barrels in the future. It's an expensive tool for a "nice to have."

Regards,

Walt

It could be that Kart isn't advertising that you may need a $60+ tool because they are afraid (rightly so) that less people would buy the barrels.

1911Tuner
27th August 2008, 13:12
The chamber may be shorter or tighter than some drop-in barrels (chambers can go as long as .920" and still be within spec), but rounds that will not drop into my Midway case gauge still easily chamber in the Kart barrel(s).

Well..........*shrug*............ Okay. :)



case length of .890" and a 200-grain #68 seated to 1.45 inch

Whoops! Make that an inch two-fifty. Can't type a lick. Me go fix...

It probably came from my preferred OAL of 1.245 inch...and I went with that thought. :rolleyes:

berkbw
27th August 2008, 22:27
Finish reaming the chamber is a cheap and easy way to achieve headspace vs.slide lug locations.

I think. Have your local smitty tweak it to perfect fer ya. Much cheaper than a tool... and the learning curve.

b-

Hawkmoon
27th August 2008, 23:29
Finish reaming the chamber is a cheap and easy way to achieve headspace vs.slide lug locations.

I think. Have your local smitty tweak it to perfect fer ya. Much cheaper than a tool... and the learning curve.
Yes, but then if you do it again, you have to pay the 'smith again.

I'd rather buy the tool and learn how to use it, then I'll have it for the next time. And the next, and ...