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T.Sensei
13th June 2005, 01:27
Heya all.

So what exactly is the difference between these two? I know that parkerizing is used heavily in the military and the nice thing about it is that it absorbs and holds oil nicely. However, what's the pros and cons of each?

The reason I'm asking is that my gun is parkerized and I'm kinda tempted to remove the parkerizing and replace it with a blued surface because:

- My gun's a bit scratched up in some areas
- Blued surfaces I've seen so far have a richer dark tone, which looks nice.
- I kinda want to try my hand at practicing bluing surfaces.

However, I'm rather pragmatic, so if parkerized surfaces are more beneficial than blued ones, I'll keep what I have, buy a parkerized retouching pen, and just focus on getting the surface polished and shiny than leave it matte.

Speaking of which, the polishing products I've seen in the area, so far, are for blued surfaces. Is it safe to use these polishing substances on parkerized surfaces? If not, what is?

Hawkmoon
13th June 2005, 01:33
This is well beyond any limited gunsmithing knowledge I might have, but I don't think you can polish a Parkerized surface. And I think if you Parkerize a polished surface it doesn't look polished when you get done.

Experts?

brickeyee
13th June 2005, 11:19
Parkerizing is a porous phosphate finishing method that is intended to absorb oil into the surface.
Bluing is a controlled rusting process in the presence of Selenium (and some other goodies) as the oxidizer. It provides a thin layer of 'pre oxidized' surface (though not iron oxide AKA rust) to limit rust (ferric oxide) formation.
The selenium concentration and the other chemicals in the mix affect the color and depth of the bluing process, as does the surface polish.

mitchjoe
13th June 2005, 21:15
T.Sensei:

Needless to say, a blued pistol requires a degree more surface prep (polishing, etc.) than a parkerized finish. I enjoy them both, but the classic blue combo of polished flats w/ the remainder being a matte finish is my favorite. If you do have the pistol re-finished, verify what the default blueing charge will cover in the way of prep work.

BTW: Polishing a park finish is not recommended! You can however, touch up minor scratches & wear w/ a cold-blue compound. Just follow the directions on the label, and your good. I've touched up many a parked pistol this way & the "fix" is almost indiscernable; at a recent show I even saw a cold-blue "pen" that looked just like a Sharpie.

mitchjoe

BGregory
14th June 2005, 11:28
Black Magic works well on a park'ed pistol as a touch-up.

usajeep1
14th June 2005, 11:41
Stay away from changing the finish from parkerized to blued, Unless its an old junker gun you want to fool with. Stripping the parkerized finish off might prove more difficult than you are aware of, and if not done correctly, will result in a gun that is unpleasing asthetically (looks), unless your Picasso or Monet and then you might like the way it looks. (It will be patchy and blotty;)) If you choose to have it done, take it to a gun smith that can 'sand' blast it. Sand blasting, if done correctly (using a special media instead of sand), can take all the parkerized finish off without damaging the metal surface. This is a job for PROFESSIONALS only!! I have seen some undertake this process and ruin a perfectly good weapon. Good lick...jeep...

T.Sensei
21st June 2005, 04:38
Heya all. Thanks for all the info. I'll stick with the parkerized finish on my gun. I'm a pragmatic type in the end and it sounds like parkerizing has more benefits than I imagined (the absorbing oil part sold me).

OTOH, I might try my hand with engraving at a much later date. ;)