Just put 1st 150 rounds thru my new SA Loaded

[br6ppc]

The 1st 100 rounds went thru no problems at all. Then I started to get ftrb on the 2nd rnd of each mag. Then ftrb at other times. Not bad, but sometimes I had to pull the slide back to eject the round.

Most other times a wack on the rear of the slide worked fine.

This is a brand new SA loaded parkerized w/Trijicon night sights. I plan on using the pistol as my carry gun when/if I get my permit.

I was shooting 200 gr. Berry's plated HP & 185 gr Golden Saber HP with Bullseye.

I plan on putting another 3/4 hundred rounds downrange before committing to the pistol, but the ftrb has me worried. Should I be? Unless it goes away.

At some point in time, I'm putting in a Cyl & Slide Tactical II sear/hammer kit and a shorter trigger. And also do some general stoning on some critical surfaces.

[Mgonz45]

It will most likely go away as things loosen up a little (Break In Period) If not you may need to throat it a little more for those HP's, or just match polish the barrel/feedramp round off the sharp edge at the top of the ramp slightly...(possibly)

[niemi24s]

Could be the gun, magazine(s) or ammunition.

• How far down from the top corner of the frame feed ramp are the lowest bullet strikes?
• How much gap is there along the barrel bed between the bottom of the barrel ramp and the top of the frame ramp?
• Does it jam with all magazines or just one?
• What kind of magazine(s) you been using?
• How much bullet setback is there in a jammed round?
• Where is the jammed case rim in relation to the FP hole and extractor?
• What's the case mouth OD of your handloads?
• Does it jam with similar factory ammunition?
• Can the jam be reproduced by slingshotting the slide?
• Pix of the jam and the barrel ramp/frame ramp with the barrel fully down and aft may be helpful.

[log man]

Think about what changed after the first 100 rounds. It got dirty. Did you stop to lubricate after each 50 rounds? Next time out stop after 50 rounds remove the top end and wipe off the barrel the slide and the frame, lubricate, assemble and shoot another 50 rounds. This will do more for breaking in your new gun than shooting it dirty. Don't worry about the bore until you finish for the day.

LOG

[br6ppc]

Could be the gun, magazine(s) or ammunition.

• How far down from the top corner of the frame feed ramp are the lowest bullet strikes?
• How much gap is there along the barrel bed between the bottom of the barrel ramp and the top of the frame ramp?
• Does it jam with all magazines or just one?
• What kind of magazine(s) you been using?
• How much bullet setback is there in a jammed round?
• Where is the jammed case rim in relation to the FP hole and extractor?
• What's the case mouth OD of your handloads?
• Does it jam with similar factory ammunition?
• Can the jam be reproduced by slingshotting the slide?
• Pix of the jam and the barrel ramp/frame ramp with the barrel fully down and aft may be helpful.

I'm ashamed to admit I did almost none of the above. It wasn't until I got home that I thought of doing this post, otherwise..., but I'll try to answer them.

#1 The rounds all chambered fine, except with the ftrb, the slide did not return to battery. It was about 1/8" short. I needed to smack the slide to push it home.

#2 The gap is spec. Approx. 3/32"

#3 Didn't check. Stupid. Stupid. Stupid. And I know better.

#4 1 SA which came with pistol & 4 CMI 7 round mags with hybrid lips.

#5 Don't know.

#6 I didn't check. See above stupid comment. :nono:

#7 .470

#8 The only "factory ammo" I was using was 230gr. FMJ Georgia Arms stuff. No idea if all ftrb were GA or combination.

#9 I didn't try to slingshoot. Will do so next week at the range.

#10 I'll bring my camera just in case.

I'm thinking they may have been the GA rounds, but I can't say for sure. I full length resize ALL of my brass before reloading, so they shouldn't have been a factor, but what the heck do I know. It may have been that the rounds that caused the problem had a oversized base (not FL resized). I'll be checking all my remaining brass to see if this is a possibility.

More later. Thanks for the comments. It really means a lot to me.

Roy

[br6ppc]

Think about what changed after the first 100 rounds. It got dirty. Did you stop to lubricate after each 50 rounds?.LOG

I oiled after I started getting the ftrb. I can't tell you if I got any more after oiling. See my above stupid comment.

I use Bullseye and the pistol was really dirty when I cleaned this morning.

But it's strange that most of the ftrb were on the 2nd round of each mag. But not all.

More later.

Roy

[br6ppc]

and he feels it is an extractor problem. Aren't they all.

Anyway, I stripped the slide last night and found that the OEM extractor hook was very rough in the hook area.

It even has a slight indentation on the right side of the flat area of the hook looking at it front to back where the vertical cut is in the back of the front of the hook. If that makes any kind of sense.

I sanded and polished the hook area and it now looks like it should feed the brass properly. The indentation is still there, but I don't think it will affect anything. I'll find out Friday at the range.

[niemi24s]

Here's a USGI extractor drawing with terms and dimensions to help insure we all know exactly what part of the extractor we're talking about:
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p232/niemi24s/P8290001d.jpg

[Hill]

Bullseye is a pretty messy powder, even to the point where you may find unburned powder flakes in the workings when cleaning.

though your hook shouldn't be rough, with a new gun I think I'd continue shooting for a while before changing anything very drastically.

[br6ppc]

The indentation is where the stress relief cut was made. It is actually cut into the nose area. It's not bad, but I've never seen that on any other extractor.

Again, thanks for the drawing.

Roy

[br6ppc]

though your hook shouldn't be rough, with a new gun I think I'd continue shooting for a while before changing anything very drastically.

I agree with you on that. The hook should not be rough, but it is, at least all the way back to the fwd tensioning pad. Maybe further. I just used 400 grit cloth to clean and polish all areas of the hook. I'll find out this weekend if that's the solution.

I'm also putting a short (2") Greider trigger to shorten the LOP. A Pearce enhancement like I have on my SA Loaded SS.

I'll be putting a Cyl & Slide Tactical II hammer/sear group, but only after 500 rounds or so.

More later.

Roy