Upgrades to Mil Spec - Questions and Comments

[BAC]

My Springfield Mil Spec is my first serious shooter and my first 1911. Once Tallahassee sends me the CCL, it will also be my carry gun. Recognizing this, I've shot the heck out of it to make sure I have a good feel for how it works. Was reared on Glock, but now I see where these 1911 guys get their addiction from.

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a213/black_knight_reborn/Firearm-related/M1911A1Caliber45ERGOXTRGripsL.jpg

http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a213/black_knight_reborn/Firearm-related/M1911A1Caliber45ERGOXTRgripsR.jpg

However, the more I shoot the more I realize a few things've gotta change. Here's the list I have proposed, and I'd really like you folks' opinions on them.

Upgrades

Finish (http://www.coalcreekarmory.com/custom_finishing.html) - The finish is fine as is, but I see only good coming from getting it refinished with Melonite QPQ at Coal Creek Armory. I know the owner and he's a good guy, and I've seen and love his work. $200 isn't that bad a deal.

Grips (done) - Came with Pachmayr grips, and I shot out the medallions on my second trip to the range. Ditched the grips and got ERGO XTR's. Excellent grips, by the way. That upgrade is taken care of, unless I find I need slimmer grips.

Grip Safety, Beavertail (http://www.kingsgunworks.com/newcatalog/page03.html) (see Hammer)- The standard one is alright, but I'm willing to bet $30 that a King's #204 beavertail will be better. Kings gets the hardest look for me because I can't stand that lump most other beavertail grip safeties have.

Hammer (see Grip Safety) - The King's grip safety won't work with the standard spur hammer, and mentions a Commander hammer specifically. Alright, never dealt with them before but I'll give it a shot. Any ideas which would be good?

Mainspring Housing (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1335) - Not required, per se, but will remove the Springfield ILS (which is of no use to me). I'd like to keep it arched, since it seems to fit my hand better, but I'd also like to keep it "grooved" instead of checkered. The Ed Brown one goes for $40, but I might save this particular upgrade for later.

Sights (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=6872&title=1911%20AUTO%20SLANTPRO?%20NIGHT%20SIGHTS) - Heinie SlantPro Straight 8's sound like exactly what I need. Little pricey, and require a smith to install, but since Coal Creek Armory can install them, I can buy 'em from Brownell's for $130 and send them with my gun when they do the Melonite. Can probably do the hammer, grip, and thumb safety installation, too. One-stop shopping. ;)

Thumb Safety (http://www.wilsoncombat.com/a_thumb_safeties_tactical.asp) - I figure Wilson Combat Tactical thumb safety would work; $32 is worth it for more comfortable, and more reliable, operation of the thumb safety.


So how 'bout it? On the right track for a carry gun?

Thanks in advance,


-B

[pa_guns]

Hi

I'd add:

Tighter bushing (looks like a new one in the picture)

Trigger job.

Bob

[BAC]

The bushing is just the standard one, but why a tighter one?

The trigger job I'm not sold on, mostly because I haven't felt like the trigger needed to be better or worked on in any way. That might be my inexperience showing, but I kinda like it as it is.

Thanks,


-B

[pa_guns]

Hi

New bushing:

More or less the accuracy of a 1911 is determined by how well the barrel locks up to the slide. The front of the barrel is held by the bushing. The back of the barrel is held by the lugs. Improving lug fit is a bit involved. Coming up with a tighter barrel fit is comparatively easy.

If the trigger is ok as is, don't touch it. Most Springfield triggers I have seen have needed a touchup to get both sear legs engaging the hammer.

Bob

[BAC]

You know, I probably should have known that. Makes sense, thanks for explaining. After a demonstration by a fellow regular at the outdoor range I visit, I have absolute confidence that where accuracy is concerned, if I do my part, the Springfield will do its part.

I'll have a couple more experienced folks I shoot with shoot the gun a little to see if the trigger is as you described, and I'll probably take it apart just to see for myself. Thanks for the heads-up on the sear legs.


-B

[pa_guns]

Hi

Tear down the pistol. Attack the end of the sear with a black magic marker. Put it back together and do a couple dozen dry fires. Tear it back down.

If only one of the two sear legs is shiny and the other is still black, you could benefit from a trigger job.

Bob

[BAC]

Huh. Cool trick. Looks like you're right. :D

Thanks to my recent gubmint "stimulus", I'm about to have several new parts for my 1911. Rock on.


-B

[pa_guns]

Hi

Remember - with a sear you can get the tools to "make it right" for roughly the price of some kind of drop in kit. The result using the tools will be *much* better.

Bob

[John]

If you are going to change the hammer, you most probably will need a trigger job, unless you are lucky. For a good looking and excellent quality Commander hammer, I would go with Dave Berryhill's one. Hurry up, Dave is giving up his parts business and he is selling his stock. There won't be any other ones, when the ones he has already are gone.

[BAC]

John, do you mean his commander ring hammer or ultimate hammer? Would one work better with the King's #204 than the other?


-B

[John]

I am talking about Dave's Commander ring hammer, not the Ultimate one. The Ultimate one is oval, even though I've used oval hammers in the past, I tend to prefer the round shape of the traditional Commander hammer. And this one is one of the best (if not the best) in the market.

I do not think there will be any problem with any of the hammers with King's safety. But then I've never tried the combination, so YMMV.

[BAC]

Alrighty, went ahead and took your advice, John, and grabbed the Berryhill hammer. If it's a good hammer, I want to make sure I get it before it's not available anymore. I went ahead and emailed King's Gun Works just to make sure it would work with their #204 grip safety.

Is Dave's hammer a drop in part or does it require gunsmith fitting?


-B

[keys1222]

smith and alexander also make a beavertail without the pad. heres a pic of mine with basically the same thing done, minus upgraded sights which will be in the future

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh203/keys1222/IMG_0111.jpg

[BAC]

Yeah, that's basically the design I'm going for. The palm swell bugs me to no end. Two quick questions: if that's a Wilson thumb safety, did it require fitting? Second question, when upgrading the thumb safety and grip safety, is it also necessary to upgrade the sear and disconnector?

Edit: Now that I think about the internals, I wonder what NP3'd internals and Melonited externals would amount to...


-B

[keys1222]

Sti thumb safety, local smith did all the fitting, so i dont know about the sear and disconnector. as far as the thumb safety broke the first one and when sti warranted it i fit it myself. pretty easy to do and i just had 1000grit paper to do it. took a long time thou

[tonka]

Is Dave's hammer a drop in part or does it require gunsmith fitting?


-B

John, I beat you to it-
THERE ARE NO "DROP-IN" PARTS! :lm:

[pa_guns]

Hi

There are parts that sometimes go in easily. When they do, you got lucky, or you didn't check them out (hopefully you got lucky ....).

Count on needing to do at least minor fitting. Understand what fitting may need to be done. Properly checking things involves at least that much.

Bob

[BAC]

Thanks for the answers. It sounds like after I get confirmation that the Berryhill hammer is a go with the King's #204 grip safety, I'll gather the pieces, see how they do/don't fit, and bring 'em to a 'smith (as I stated in my intro, likely CCA so they can also do the melonizing).


-B

[John]

John, I beat you to it-
THERE ARE NO "DROP-IN" PARTS! :lm:
You are learning Grasshopper!