Can an ejector be loose? Tuner?

[pdoppenheim]

The ejector on my SS Kobra Carry is loose. The back end lifts up a few thousandths. I don't recall it moving at all when the gun was new 6000 rounds ago. The gun still shoots fine. It's pinned into place so it probably won't get any looser than it is right now.

So. New ejector? Remove old one, spread rear pin, locktite and pin back into place or just leave it be?

Any thoughts, especially from Tuner would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

[Hunter]

I am pretty sure the ejector should be tight to the receiver.

[berkbw]

Whereas your ejector can't go anywhere, the slide houses it, it's something that I would prefer not to have happening.

I would get a new pin, and remove the old pin. Remove the ejector, clean all up, and see where the play is w/o pin. It's possible that just a new pin will fix things up. If so, adding a teeny touch of red or green to the studs should enhance the life of the setup.

b-

[Hawkmoon]

The pin goes through the front leg. A new pin won't do anything if the back lifts.

The fact is, when a case hits the ejector, it's going to tend to push the back of the ejector down anyway. And the ejector is captive. I've shot 1911s that didn't have a pin. No problem.

If it ain't broke ... don't fix it.

[1911Tuner]

As berk noted...even if it's loose, the ejector really can't move much as long as the channel in the slide is in light contact with the top of it...or nearly so.

That said...It's also not conducive to the mounting legs living long and prospering if there's a little play. Loosely mounted, and the ejector is slammed rearward with every impact. It won't take long for one or both of the legs to shear off in the frame. Depending on several factors, they can be pretty tough to remove.

I've been able to rap the frame on a benchtop and dislodge them within a few whacks...and I've had to set the frame up in a mill vice and use a stub center drill...followed by a small twist drill and an EZ-Out. If the twist drill happens to snap off flush with the frame rail...which can happen if you don't get the set-up just right...things can get truly interesting.

Go ahead. Ask me how I know... :rolleyes:

[Hill]

I'd call Ed Brown and have them send you a new one with a new pin.

Even though it can't escape in normal circumstances if it moves it'll gradually move more. Wear happens to parts that work against each other.

[John]

And if he does so, he has more chances of receiving another moving ejector than a non-moving one. Put some Loctite in the rear leg and leave it there.

[pdoppenheim]

As berk noted...even if it's loose, the ejector really can't move much as long as the channel in the slide is in light contact with the top of it...or nearly so.

That said...It's also not conducive to the mounting legs living long and prospering if there's a little play. Loosely mounted, and the ejector is slammed rearward with every impact. It won't take long for one or both of the legs to shear off in the frame. Depending on several factors, they can be pretty tough to remove.

I've been able to rap the frame on a benchtop and dislodge them within a few whacks...and I've had to set the frame up in a mill vice and use a stub center drill...followed by a small twist drill and an EZ-Out. If the twist drill happens to snap off flush with the frame rail...which can happen if you don't get the set-up just right...things can get truly interesting.

Go ahead. Ask me how I know... :rolleyes:

Thanks for the response. I've also gained some wisdom the same way. If I can ask a bit more....

What causes the ejector to work loose in the first place? And would you just repin and locktite the old one or would you replace it with a new ejector as well? I've also heard of removing the ejector, peening the rear leg for a tighter fit and reinstalling it. Any thoughts on that?

[John]

I've also heard of removing the ejector, peening the rear leg for a tighter fit and reinstalling it. Any thoughts on that?

Yeap, that's a more ... elaborate method, but you can go that way too.

[1911Tuner]

What causes the ejector to work loose in the first place?

Improper installation...specifically, when the groove is cut for the pin. Correctly done, the pin should pull the ejector down tightly against the frame. Repinning it with the same pin isn't likely to correct it because the groove size and location is the problem.

The other part of the problem is the leg and hole diameters. If the difference is great enough to allow a little movement...the ejector will move eventually...which leads to impact stresses that work to shear the leg and/or wallow the hole.

[Hill]

Improper installation...specifically, when the groove is cut for the pin. Correctly done, the pin should pull the ejector down tightly against the frame. Repinning it with the same pin isn't likely to correct it because the groove size and location is the problem.

The other part of the problem is the leg and hole diameters. If the difference is great enough to allow a little movement...the ejector will move eventually...which leads to impact stresses that work to shear the leg and/or wallow the hole.

Yeap, which is why another one is in order.

[Ping Ping]

I've also seen this occur where the magazine is excessively tall and contacts the ejector when inserted with "authority". Gen 1 Cobra mags are notorious for this. "Ask me how I know this...:)" As a result, I make it a habit to always check clearance on either a new gun, or a new mag experiement.
Personally, on a $2500 gun, I'd let EB correct it.

[jimster]

I've had loose ones, and they bugged me enough to get them fixed. First one I did, I guess I didn't get the groove just right, after a couple thousand rounds I could pinch it real hard, and move it just a tad. Second time I tried it, I went real slow, took my time, went slower, took a walk, kept going real slow...and I got it right, it's rock solid still. Get a new pin by the way with an ejector. Maybe a few pins. Main thing is go real slow when you make that groove. I read on this site how to do it.
SA fixed one for me as well, that was cheaper, easier...and guess what, they are every bit as good as me...well, lots better! LOL!

[1911Tuner]

If ya'll are good...maybe next Christmas, I'll give up my fool-proof 3-minute ejector installation trick. Costs about 4 bucks for the quick-n-dirty/one-time method...and a little more initially if ya plan on doin' a couple a week.

I did it about a month ago for a guy who said he didn't believe it. He lit a smoke and nosed around the shop...eyeballin' the lathe and stuff. Before he finished his cigarette, I handed him the assembled gun. Never did tell him how I did it. Just told him: "Sorry. You blinked. Ya snooze, ya looze." :D

Now all you chil'ren better be good...and act like all good chil'ren should. You better watch yo Ps and Qs...'cause Santy Clause is a-watchin' you! (He's everywhere! He's everywhere!)

Be kind. I'll be under the influence of this flippin' prednisone for the next 3 weeks...and I may not be just egg-zactly on my game.

[jimster]

Ya, I got to be good get this one....there I was, filing, and shining a bright light through the little hole...and filing some more...and looking, and filing, and looking...

If anyone deserves the fool-proof 3 minute ejector installation trick...I DO!

[niemi24s]

I'll be under the influence of this flippin' prednisone for the next 3 weeks...
No idea what Prednisone is prescribed for, but whatever it is - just said a "quickie" to Him for your speedy recovery from it.

Saw a get well card years ago saying "The doctor tells me your prognosis is excellent - and I didn't even know you'd hurt it!" :D

Cheers

[berkbw]

Roll pins have a tendency to weaken and bend. If a mag repeatedly crashed into it, it could do it. Quick diag. is to push the pin a few thou, either way, and see it it tightens up.
fyi
b-

[Hill]

If ya'll are good...maybe next Christmas, I'll give up my fool-proof 3-minute ejector installation trick. Costs about 4 bucks for the quick-n-dirty/one-time method...and a little more initially if ya plan on doin' a couple a week.

I did it about a month ago for a guy who said he didn't believe it. He lit a smoke and nosed around the shop...eyeballin' the lathe and stuff. Before he finished his cigarette, I handed him the assembled gun. Never did tell him how I did it. Just told him: "Sorry. You blinked. Ya snooze, ya looze." :D

Now all you chil'ren better be good...and act like all good chil'ren should. You better watch yo Ps and Qs...'cause Santy Clause is a-watchin' you! (He's everywhere! He's everywhere!)

Be kind. I'll be under the influence of this flippin' prednisone for the next 3 weeks...and I may not be just egg-zactly on my game.

Uh-huh. The hint's right there folks.

He just slipped a little piece of the smoke pack shiny paper down the hole along with the ejector pin as he pushed it down.

The owner was goofin' off, but I was watching in the mirror. :D

[pdoppenheim]

I've also seen this occur where the magazine is excessively tall and contacts the ejector when inserted with "authority". Gen 1 Cobra mags are notorious for this. "Ask me how I know this...:)" As a result, I make it a habit to always check clearance on either a new gun, or a new mag experiement.
Personally, on a $2500 gun, I'd let EB correct it.

Ping, guess what mags I use. Yep. Gen I Cobra. I'll check the fit and report back. Fit aside the Cobra mags are the best. Reliable as a rock.

You are right about sending it back, But, EB would probably fix it, but the R/T for shipping would be $80.00 and my gunsmith, Marianne Carniak will fix it and probably for a lot less than that. I love my EB, but Wilson pays shipping on warranty repairs and EB doesn't. I'd have to think a bit about another EB.

[Hill]

"Wilson pays shipping on warranty repairs" .

I did not know that.

[pdoppenheim]

I did not know that.
Yep. Both ways. They either mail you or email to you for you to print out a UPS label. I have also known them to send back with the repaired gun chamber brushes, magazines, cleaning mats and other little goodies to make up for the inconvenience of having to send your gun back for repairs.

[niemi24s]

He just slipped a little piece of the smoke pack shiny paper down the hole along with the ejector pin as he pushed it down.
He did what? :confused:

[I'm like osmium at times - the densest thing in nature]

[David Rose]

Tuner said it was an "install trick". He didn't say it was a 'tightening of an existing loose ejector' trick. With a new installation, it is way easier than most think. If he tightened a loose one without lightly peening the leg groove, it is 224 days until Christmas! That makes Tuner meaner than Santy Claus! :lm:

David

[1911Tuner]

With a new installation, it is way easier than most think.

Uh-oh. Busted...

[niemi24s]

I was going to guess the $4 was for a 1/16" drift punch with a nice sharp-cornered face and dressed down for a slip fit into the pin hole.

But that's how I do it - and that's just got to be wrong!! <grinny face>

Cheers

[1911Tuner]

Dang! You is good, Niem.

I guess since you got so close, I'll go ahead and give it up.

Back when I could get the 1/16th pin punches from Brownells for about 2 bucks...I ordered a half-dozen at a time. I'd take a couple out of the group and modify'em with a shallow angle on the tip for chip clearance.

When I had to install a new ejector, I'd slip it into the frame and use one f the unaltered punches to lightly mark the spot on the ejector leg...take it back out, and use a small round needle file to start the cut...maybe a 3rd of the finished depth.

Slip it back in and use a toolmaker's clamp to tighten the ejector against the frame...then use one of the modified punches to cut the pin groove. It usually takes 3-4 sharp whacks with a 4-ounce hammer to see the end of the punch in the right side of the frame's hole. Then...just snap the punch off and let it be the pin. Use a safe-side rail file to dress any of the pin left above the way...and that was it.

The new black punches are a little too soft, and bend too easily...so the other option is to shorten the actual punch, and cut the starter groove a little deeper. The best way is to order one of the pin punch sets with interchangeable tips and order several of the size needed. The trick here is that they're not true 1/16th diameter. They're .060 inch...which makes the groove a couple thou undersized. Forcing the standard pin through makes for a super tight fit...or...use the other pin punch to finish cutting the groove with less resistance...and snap it off.

[Hill]

You mean these ones?

I bought the holders years ago and now get the pins by the dozens, because dozens of things come up where they do the trick, one way or another.
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=549&title=STARTER%20PUNCH%20SET
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/catsearch.aspx?c=46&p=4794

[1911Tuner]

That would be the one, Hill.

[niemi24s]

So the pin punch is sacrificed to become the pin, huh?

Now that's downright ingenious! :appld:

[1911Tuner]

So the pin punch is sacrificed to become the pin, huh?

Yope...and the remaining bit of pin on the punch can usually be redressed to make a dandy starter or marker punch...so it's not a total loss.

[John]

Now that's downright ingenious!

That's one of those case, where you say "Why didn't I think of that?".

:lm:

[1911Tuner]

That's one of those case, where you say "Why didn't I think of that?".

zebrazebrazebrazebraHORSEzebrazebrazebra


:D

[ElrodCod]

zebrazebrazebrazebraHORSEzebrazebrazebra


:D
I though you were gonna say that you used a drill bit to drll the leg notch & use the smooth shank of the bit for the pin.

[1911Tuner]

I though you were gonna say that you used a drill bit to drll the leg notch & use the smooth shank of the bit for the pin.

Too much risk of snappin' the drill off in the hole...and at that point, you can forget gettin' it back out with conventional means.