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View Full Version : Full Sistema ahead part I


Mr Fixit
4th February 2008, 18:31
I posted this on my blog originally. I posted it here also, because I would like to have some feedback on what I'm doing to the pistol. If crosspoasting here offends or breaks rules, please let me know and I will remove it.


That's such a bad pun, sorry.

Fact is, the Sistema project is underway. You can go back and see where it all startedhttp://thefixitshop.blogspot.com/2007/07/im-working-on-it.html if you like. Be sure to read JPG's comment as well.

Back? Good.

In all honesty, I did write that post a bit tongue-in-cheek. I've never owned a 1911 before, but I read about them a bit. It seems every article tells you how you need this or that modification in order for the pistol to function. I honestly don't think all the mods are needed, and some of them may even be a detriment.

So, I started on a different path. I asked my self, "What is wrong with this pistol?" It was actually a short list:
Poor accuracy- with the issue barrel, it shot into about a 24" group at 25 paces.
Poor fit- I have small hands, and the 1911 just felt to long from front to back.
Poor grips- this is partially the cause of the poor fit, the grips were in very poor shape, and somewhat deformed.
Poor sights- tiny A1 sights.
Poor finish- as in non-existent. This pistol, and many like it had been worn a lot. The blued finish was completely gone.
Tight Magazine fit- had to push in and pull out. No drop free here.
Hammer bite- it got me several times while shooting.

I guess maybe it's not such a short list after all. However, all that can be fixed fairly easily.

The pistol was reliable, at least with the FMJ ammo I tried with it. No problem functioning at all with either the original magazine, or the new Chip McCormick Power Mag.

I tried to address the accuracy first. I read over on Xavier's blog about his Sistema, and getting a new barrel. Sounded like a good idea. I looked at barrels from several manufacturers. I decided on a Storm Lake "drop in fit" match barrel and bushing. My main reasons for the choice were the reputation, and the price. The barrel came "throated" for hollow points, which I understand the GI barrel wouldn't feed well. It was about $50 cheaper than the next "Drop in fit" barrel.

Of course they didn't drop in. The bushing was quite tight, and I had to work in in with a bushing wrench several times. The barrel didn't want to lock up completely. I couldn't figure it out at first, but it turned out that the OD of the hood area of the new one, was just a bit larger than the same area of the old one. I used a bit of sandpaper and carefully removed a few thousandths. That did it. Where previously I could move the barrel by pushing down on the hood, now I couldn't. Also with the old barrel and bushing, when it was locked up, I could take a finger on the muzzle and wiggle it in the bushing a bit. That no longer happens either.

At this point I had got a good look at the internals and springs. Lots of gunk inside. Instead of putting it back together and seeing how it shot, I decided to go ahead and order the rest of the parts for the rebuild.


Next time: Picking the parts

stay tuned

Mr Fixit

Mr Fixit
5th February 2008, 17:47
I'll tell you up front that all of the parts I have purchased have been from Brownells. There are a couple of reasons for that. Number one is that I have purchased from them before, and have been really happy. Second, they have had everything I have needed. One stop shopping cuts down on the shipping costs. Third is price, and that is not as important as some other factors. however, it has been a consideration. I am not trying to build a high-end custom one-of-a-kind heirloom quality cost more than a months pay pistol. Having said that, I see no reason to throw money away. Because of having a Type3 FFL, I get a discount at Brownells. I have looked at Midway, and have purchased from them before. However this time, on these products, the convenience and price advantage was weighted toward Brownells.

So, on to the parts I ordered, and why:

Storm Lake Barrel (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=12731&title=1911%20AUTO%20PRE-FIT%20BARREL%20KIT) This is the barrel I ordered. It came with a pre-fit bushing, and link pin already installed. In my previous post I told you about fitting it. As usual, drop in parts don't.

Grips (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=9549&title=1911%20AUTO%20SLIM%20GRIPS) As I said in part I, I have small hands. Part of my fix for this is a set of slim grips. These are actually the slimmest I could find at 3.7mm thick. They come with new slim bushings and screws.

Grip Safety (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=23293&title=1911%20AUTO%20PARTS) Honestly, I ordered this one wrong. I picked the Caspian because I know they make,or have made in the past parts for many of the big manufacturers. Also, I felt like I would need a "speed bump" on the safety, and I really didn't want to copy every other guy with a speed bump. I just don't like folks thinking I am only following along, and not doing it for a reason. This Caspian safety doesn't have the "square pad" at the bottom like most others ala Ed Brown. (not that there's anything wrong with it) Instead it has a radiused center section. it is the same as on the SIG 1911.

As for why I ordered it wrong; I ordered it it stainless instead of carbon steel. Also, I ordered the Wilson contour, instead of the simpler ED Brown .250 radius contour. I'll tell you more about that problem when I tell you about fitting it.

Pin Set (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=16420&title=1911%20AUTO%20PIN%20SET) I figured what the heck. I don't know if the pin holes are "wallered out", or if the pins are in good shape. I ordered a new set, just 'cause.


Trigger (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=23562&title=1911%20AUTO%20SOLID%20ALUMINUM%20MATCH%20TRIGGER) This took some thinking. Again with the short hands/fingers, I went with a short trigger. I picked this one because of the smooth face, and the reputation of C&S.


Recoil Spring (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=24868&title=GOVERNMENT%20MODEL%20VARIABLE%20POWER%20RECOIL%20SPRING) This was a real thinker. How heavy of a recoil spring should you use? I've heard all sorts of answers. I read a lot, thought a lot, and finally made a decision. I'm starting out with a pretty basic 1911, shooting a pretty basic load. Why fiddle with what the designer did? I went with the Wolff spring because, well, for one it was a Wolff spring. For another the Government Model was designed with a 16# spring. I'll just have to see how it goes.

Trigger pull kit (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5502&title=1911%20AUTO%20TRIGGER%20PULL%20KITS) I spent more time on this than any other part. I was really torn between buying individual hammer sear and disconnecter, and a kit. In all honesty, I really wanted a true "Commander" hammer, and the only way to get one was as a single unit. On the other hand, I wasn't sure how good, or safe a trigger pull I could expect if I fit them all myself. It's not that I think I couldn't do it, I don't have the jigs and would have to do it by hand. A man has to know his limits.
I chose this particular kit based on the reputation of Cylinder and Slide, and the fact that they fit the kit on a series 70 frame to insure the kit will do what they say. It has a 4.5# trigger pull they say. That's "in the zone" of what I have read is correct for a fighting pistol.

Mainspring Housing (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/productdetail.aspx?p=23737) This pistol is heavy. It's all steel. I thought I'd try to save a bit of weight if I could. Also, a flat MSH should make it easier to grip with the small hands.

Recaoil spring plug (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=24586&title=1911%20AUTO%20RECOIL%20SPRING%20PLUG) There's nothing special about this part. It is the standard Government style. The one on the pistol was banged up, so I got a replacement.

Ed Brown match extractor (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=1318&title=1911%20AUTO%20MATCH%20EXTRACTOR) Again, lots of choices and a hard decision. I ask you folks that are 1911 fans, why does each manufacturer make so many different versions of the same part? Ed Brown has 3 extractors in the Brownells catalog. Wilson Combat has 3 also. Why?
I called Brownells and talked to Tech Support. I told the man what I was doing, and asked why so many, and how to choose one. The answer I got was that this particular one doesn't seem to be returned, and he uses it on his guns.


Firing Pin stop (http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=19627&title=1911%20AUTO%20OVERSIZED%20FIRING%20PIN%20STOP) I got the EGW stop so I could give it the basic bevel that JMB originally designed. I saw this on Xavier's blog. I don't really know how much of a difference it makes, but I figure it can't be a bad thing.


So there you go, I think I covered all the parts. I've got some photos of me "fitting it up" together for upcoming posts.

Mr Fixit

Mr Fixit
5th February 2008, 17:49
A quick word about parts I'm not using, or not replacing as the case may be.

First, I have decided not to replace the thumb safety. It has the "original" style small nub on it, and I have found I have no problem pushing it down as I prepare to fire the pistol. I don't see a need for an extended safety, at least for me. Nor do I feel the need for a safty lever on the opposite side, so no ambi safety.

Also, I'll be using the original slide release. It seems to be in good shape, the checkering is still nice. I can release the slide by pulling it back and letting go, just like always.

I am using the original guide rod, and recoil spring plug. I've read about them, but I don't really know why you would want to use a full length guide rod, or even what they are good for. Therefor, I didn't use one on mine.

I am not using an extended magazine release. Again, the original works for me. It's something I can't really wrap my mind around. You use an extended mag release to make it easier to push in. But, it's not long enough to for the holster to push it in. So, is it really longer enough to make a difference?

No mag well/chute. For me, the grip is already big enough, and bigger than my hand. Why add more length? I'm not going to be using it for IPSC or other armed track meets. The extra material would add weight and bulk to a possible carry pistol. As in concealed carry, which in Texas means not even a gun shaped bulge under your shirt.

No lasers, no lights. 'Nuff said.

It's not a part per say, but I'm not going to enlarge the ejection port. It ejected just fine as is, so, why make a bigger hole?

Mr Fixit