do i have everything?

[arolfsen]

so i'm rethinking my build. it's been about six months of planning and now i'm not sure if i want to do custom build vs. para/kimber. so here's the list for the bottom end that i've compiled so far. do i have everything listed that i need? if not, what am i missing?

Grip Safety, Hi-ride Beavertail, Stainless
Hammer Strut, Titanium
Lock, Mag Catch, Stainless
Mag Catch - Extended, Stainless
Hammer, Custom Speed Split
Mainspring Housing, Stainless ARCHED Checkered
Sear, Match Grade Stainless Steel
Slide Stop - EXTENDED Stainless, Serrated
Thumb Safety AMBI Stainless - Tactical Pro-Series
Trigger - Match Grade Black K, Combat Series
Grip screw Kit, HEX head Stainless Steel
Disconnector, Match Grade
Magazine Release Spring
Main Spring Match Grade (17#)
Sear Spring
Hammer Pin, Stainless
Mainspring Housing Pin, Stainless
Sear Pin, Stainless

Just with all that, no frame included, i'm sitting at $347 plus another $140 for the frame $165 for the slide and what not. so i'm thinking i might just go the para route.

[wichaka]

What will your build gun be used for? As some of the parts on your list are a bit overkill......and border on the "useless" list.

[arolfsen]

which parts? this will be a carry gun

[twin oaks]

WTH is a custom speed split hammer? Why do you want a titanium (!??!) hammer strut? Oh, and get rid of the HEX screws listed- just use flat head screws.

[Hill]

It really needs that you decide, once and for all, what kind of gun and what caliber you want it in before you start to build it. Like tha man above me said "What's it gonna' be for?

A lot of the parts listed are the type generally thought of as being on a custom, even a "race" gun but they can also be a matter of personal preference. Most of them can be added to a "store bought" gun after you own it.

Things like the split hammer kind of define what sort of pistol you like. One of those adds a kind of cool touch to the type of gun you see in STI's site that are made for gaming - shooting competition. That hammer would look kind of silly on a WW2 style parkerized pistol, right?

The titatium strut - well, who knows if they're any better? I've always thought of titanium as being on the brittle side but things are advancing in mettalurgy faster than my belt size. I suspect that such stuff is what it's always been - catchy phrases that sell people things. I for one couldn't tell titanium from a beer can. Know what I mean?

Sounds like you've got in mind a pretty hotrodded gun using good pieces. What kind of frame and slide are you thinking of using that only costs $140. and $165. ? If that's forged stainless, or even forged carbon, from Caspian - get me three each while you're there, OK?

[niemi24s]

Stainless steel sear? Probably a good idea for a Navy Seal's carry gun, but . . .

[Hill]

When you go to the part seller's sites they sing the virtues of all manner of stuff.

Arolfsen, I hadn't noticed that you had said that this was to be a carry gun. In that case I'd think that a split hammer would just provide another place to catch on your clothes.

[kcshooter]

I think the biggest no-no here is the extended slide release and extended magazine release on a carry gun! (Along with that split hammer, of course.)
$140 for the frame? $165 for the slide? I'm not sure that price is in U.S. dollars.
I think you forgot the barrel, bushing, link, guide rod, grips, sights, FP, FPS, FP spring.
I don't think you may be ready for this project quite yet. Building your own will never be cheaper (until you have a stash of spare and take-off parts), and the price difference shouldn't be your motivation. There is also a large amount of labor involved here.

[sevenL4]

If you're going to carry it so that you can pull it out and show it off, you certainly need all that bling. If you are going to carry for self self defense, sights you can see and dependable ignition will suffice. A beavertail will make it more fun to shoot.

[niemi24s]

If this gun's for a right-handed person, I'd skip the ambidextrous safety.

And what the heck is a "split hammer"?

[wichaka]

First I'd like to say that we are not trying to shred your list, there's just some areas where you can save money and have better parts for the job.

A standard strut will do most guns, except maybe high end game type guns, just fine.

I have extended mag releases on all my carry/duty guns, but they are of the type that has .060" extended button.

Any solid steel barstock steel or SS hammer will do your gun very well.

Nowlin makes a sear that I use for all my builds, their pro-Match is hard to beat.........and it's a tad over 20.00

Stay away from extended slide stops, more trouble than they are worth. You won't find any custom gun makers using them.....there's a clue.

For ambi safety, look at Kings, or any of the variety that use an extended hammer pin to hold it. Much better desing.

Disconnector.....again look for solid steel.....Dave Berryhill and C&S makes a good ones.

Keep your main spring to the standard 23lbs. many good triggers down to 4 1/2lbs of pull can be had on those weight of springs.

Unless your gun is SS, stay with standard frame pins........they will do you more than fine.

Not trying to hurt your dream gun, just trying to throw out some ideas.

[Hill]

If this gun's for a right-handed person, I'd skip the ambidextrous safety.

And what the heck is a "split hammer"?

I knew I'd seen one and here it is: http://www.fusionfirearms.com/servlet/Detail?no=67

[niemi24s]

Well I'll be dipped in . . . What won't they think of next! Thanks Hill. Cheers

[arolfsen]

as to the frame/slide question, I was looking at essex stainless frame with stainless frame. I'm not trying to build a "race/game" gun, but rather a one off, don't see many of those, but still trying to stay under $1000 mark. I mean i've seen people carrying para's, high end kimbers, etc, but i want a truely custom weapon. i'm not putting the parts together, but rather i have a guy that does nothing that build 1911s all day.

like i said before it will be a carry gun, but also a "let's do a photo shoot" kinda gun to.

also like i said before i'm torn on what i really want to do. I know for a fact that it will be a single stack gun though, as i refuse to pay anyone $50+ for a magazine.

[wichaka]

I would stay away from Essex.......and look at Caspian's frames and slides. A bit more spendy, but worth every penny, for you and your 'smith.

[kcshooter]

I'll second that one, Caspian makes a better frame, and I'd also check out Fusion. For the price of a cast frame, they make a great quality forged one, I've used a slide and other parts and they are top shelf.
I just did one on an Essex frame and wish I had gone elsewhere. I was trying to stay low-buck because I had almost every other part from my spare parts bin, and thought it would be cool to build one that only cost me $200. I bought there new "enhanced frame w/ light rail", and the quality isn't what I wanted.
Dimensions were o.k., but the beavertail wasn't cut and the inside of the dustcover was thicker on one side than the other. It was blued but it was poorly finished before they blued it so I had to redo that again. Plus I just had to have the plunger tube re-staked after 2 months and about 1200rds.
I used high-quality parts for the rest of it so I should have gotten a frame that was quality too, lesson learned.

[Hill]

Arolfsen,

I apologize to you. I was hasty and ignorant when I said what I did about frame/slide and have found those prices as well. (wish I had before I got this stupid SS fingergroove frame ---- another story).

Brownell's has both Essex and Caspian frame/slide deals at about the same priice for either at least at the account price, so of the two Caspian has the better record for dimensional accuracy and general quality - this from the almost across the board opinions of people here who know far better than I do.

I'm with you on the single stack question. I figure that if eight rounds of .45 full loads won't do the job I'd better run for my life!

[berkbw]

Arolfsen,

I apologize to you. I was hasty and ignorant when I said what I did about frame/slide and have found those prices as well. (wish I had before I got this stupid SS fingergroove frame ---- another story).

Brownell's has both Essex and Caspian frame/slide deals at about the same priice for either at least at the account price, so of the two Caspian has the better record for dimensional accuracy and general quality - this from the almost across the board opinions of people here who know far better than I do.

I'm with you on the single stack question. I figure that if eight rounds of .45 full loads won't do the job I'd better run for my life!

If you hate the Matchmaster frame, I'll buy it from you.

b-

[Hill]

If you hate the Matchmaster frame, I'll buy it from you.

b-

:) Nah, but you made me laugh by being so quick to jump on that comment of mine. Good one!

Truth is the frame has me puzzled as to what kind of gun I want from it. I've considered just grinding the finger notch off, but I'm also thinking that the lines made by that finger cut as well as the squared trigger guard would compliment the line of a 6" pistol. So lemme' keep it while I try to figure out how I feel about it all. I've never had a longslide .45 but back in my bullseye shooting days I'd have loved to have been able to afford a Clark longside target pistol.

[berkbw]

Rats!! And here I've got a kid brother waiting in Olympia..:(..

I think, with a short trigger, it would be a good cold weather gun. Enjoy!

b-

[Hill]

Rats!! And here I've got a kid brother waiting in Olympia..:(..

I think, with a short trigger, it would be a good cold weather gun. Enjoy!

b-


we're on the same track but that's what has been bothering me about the finger thing, using it with a glove on. I've been saying to my wife that I'm pretty used to freezing one finger, but now I'm gonna' freeze two?!

Anyway as far as the short trigger idea - the trigger opening is exactly the same size and shape as on any Colt. There's just more material in front of the opening.

[berkbw]

What is more important might be how much room there is BEFORE the trigger. And the little thingy sticking forward from the trigger area will fit most any glove, and maybe not slip off, eh?