Stress Crack on Frame

[MrGun]

Question:

At what point should one be concerned about hairline stress cracks in the frame of a 1911? I have fired several several hundred rounds from a Springfield and Colt with stress cracks, with no apparent increase in the crack length. The cracks are barely distingushable from scratches on the frame. The cracks are on both sides of the frame in the same spot on both the Springfield and the Colt.

If you go to the following web page:

http://usgi1911.tripod.com/used1911/

--- it has a section on "Cracks or Peening Damage". There is an illustration that shows a crack right in front of the slide rail. This is similar to the crack I have seen on the Springfield and the Colt. (In the picture on the website, it is shown at appx. the 7 o'clock position)

Here is a link to the picture:
http://usgi1911.tripod.com/used1911/stress.jpg

So the question is:

1. When should one be concerned about stress cracks - At what point should worry about potential catastrophic failure?
2. If necessary, How can these be fixed? What kind of cost and skill level are we talking here?
3. Is the best solution to send the frame back to the manufacture for repair/replacement?
4. Is it safe to keep shooting unless the cracks get bigger?

I would appreciate your input. I have heard several opinions on this - and I am sure it depends on the individual frame condition, but your comments would be helpful.

Also, if you are an actual GUNSMITH answering this question, please state so as your opinions will be highly regarded, and safety is a concern.

Thank you.

[1911Tuner]

Howdy MrGun,

The slide cracks in the illustrations usually lead to failure, but if caught
in time they can be check-drilled and/or tigged to add some useful service life to the gun. I normally recommend replacing the slide whenever cracks form.

The two frame cracks generally don't lead to failure for a long time. The
one on the bridge over the slidestop is a non-issue as many modern pistols have that section removed anyway. That one has broken through to air,
and can't cause any other problems.

The crack(s) at the junction of the frame rail(s) and dust cover are usually
the result of insufficient clearance between the bottom of the slide and top of the dust cover in full, or nearly full slide travel during recoil. When the slide
hits the impact surface in the frame, the dust cover flexes upward and bears on the slide. Since there's a sharp corner at the junction, a crack is likely to start there. These usually self-terminate and don't travel for a long time, due to the steel below them being thicker...but if not checked, they will eventually
grow. I like to see about .007 to .010 inch of clearance in that area to prevent the flexing and subsequent cracking.

Stopping them at that point is easy. Use a prick punch to mark the terminal
point of the crack and check-drill that mark with a1/16th drill. If the hole in
the frame is an issue, you can have it tig welded, but it's mainly a cosmetic
improvement and will require refinishing the frame. If the welder is very good, and limits the discoloration to a small area, cold blue will often make the repair
hard to detect. Even alloy frames with this damage and repair last a long time afterward. They look bad, but the pistol will be serviceable.

I have several old frames that I've salvaged and rebuilt that have been cracked and check-drilled and have seen tens of thousands of rounds without
any further enlarging of the cracks and without causing functional problems with the pistols.

Luck!

Tuner

[MrGun]

Thank you for a very fast and clear answer to the question. Your input on what might have caused the cracks on the frame near the rails was also very enlightening.

The recoil spring on both pistols were weak and have been replaced. It is possible that full slide travel was occuring on recoil. I noticed that ejected cases were hurtling throught the air and landing far away, so the slide had significant speed on recoil. This could have lead to the frame cracks.

Now it is time to look into having this repaired, or drilling it myself. If send to the factory, I wonder if they would prefer to repair or replace the frame without any additional cost.

Does anyone know the repair/warranty policy for Colt and/or Springfield Armory?


(As a side note, this post and answer shows one of the best features of the 1911 pattern pistols - there is a great wealth of knowledge avaliable on repair and maintenance or modification.)

Thank you.

[1911Tuner]

Howdy MrGun,

You said:

The recoil spring on both pistols were weak and have been replaced. It is possible that full slide travel was occuring on recoil.

Yep. The slide is supposed to make full travel and hit the impact surface in the frame via the guide rod head. Weak recoil springs would make the cracks appear sooner if there was insufficient clearance between the slide and dust cover.

Overpowered recoil springs, while reducing the impact, can bring on other problems such as feeding problems on the last round and increased impact
damage to the lower barrel lug and slidestop crosspin. Use feeler gauges to
check the clearance and adjust as needed, and don't stray too far from
standard spring rates. +/- 2 pounds is about the limit, and sometimes
+2 can cause problems.

Shock buffs will soften the impact, but some guns won't run well with buffs.
I don't recommend them on a carry gun in any event. Range/practice is okay.

Not sure about warranty covering the damage...It would depend on the age of the guns, I imagine. Call and ask...All they can do is say no.

Luck!

Tuner