My wife calls me crazy...

[erwittry]

I have convinced my wife, that she should give me a new frame and slide for XMAS this year. So last week I ordered them, and picked them up tonight. I was allowed to take pictures tonight, but tomorrow they will be wrapped and under the tree...haunting me until the 25th.

This is my first (and hopefully not last) 1911 build. Hopefully, this will not be an overwhelming experience. The frame and slide is from Foster Industries. These are really Caspian's cosmetics "seconds" or over-runs. I was assured that the flaws would only be cosmetic and that the machining, tolerances, and metallurgy were still top-notch. Tonight, after examining them, I'm convinced this is the case (more below).

I'm hoping to document the build here, ask for advice, etc. I'll probably start this early in January (or sooner if I can talk my wife into an early xmas). It'll probably be slow-going as get time to work on it. Thanks for the help in advance...

These Caspian's RECON series. The frame has an integral accessory rail and checkered grips. The slide has dual cocking serrations, "hidden" bomar sight cuts, and carry-bevel treatment.

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/20071212/1911_20071212001.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/20071212/1911_20071212038.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/20071212/1911_20071212034.jpg

The only flaw I could find in the slide was a light scratch above the safety slot. I took 20 pictures, but this is the only picture with any hint of the scratch...
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/20071212/1911_20071212042.jpg


The only flaw I see in the frame is a slight ding in the checkering.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/20071212/1911_20071212023.jpg


Moreover, I'm pleased with the value. I'm sure that I will add to the "flaws" before its over with, so I think Foster's "seconds" is a reasonable way to go. Foster/Caspian charged $450 for both. Transfer was $25 at the local gunshop. I know you could a Rock or Springer for that, but I was really after checkering and adjustable sights. I could neither get nor afford these options in a build for anywhere near that price.

[Frank]

Yes, you're crazy, as are most of us here. :D So what's your point? :D :D Looks like it'll be an interesting project. Keep us posted.

DVC

[Joni Lynn]

Looks like it'll be a fun build, probably educational as well.

[John]

Hurry up and order your Bomar sight my friend, I hear that they are becoming obsolete.

[Jolly Rogers]

Hurry up and order your Bomar sight my friend, I hear that they are becoming obsolete.
True...the latest 1911 catalogue from Brownells doesn't even list them.They may still have stock but cannot refill inventory obviously. :(
Joe

[kcshooter]

I don't think you're crazy at all. Of course everyone thinks I'm crazy so my opinion on sanity may be slightly skewed...

I don't think you will find it overwhelming. I was very cautious on my first build, I kept thinking how embarrased I was going to be when I showed up at my 'smith's shop with a case full of parts asking him to "fix it".

It really was much easier than I thought. I got a couple videos from www.smartflix.com, the wilson combat 4-part called "building the ultimate combat 1911", (or somthing like that), the agi video, and was able to take my time and get thru it.

I think the real trick it to take your time, don't rush it, uses files and emery cloth, not a dremel, and ask questions if you aren't sure of something. Metal comes off a lot easier than it goes back on.

I've re-built a couple and fresh-built a couple now and I'm warning you, it's addictive.

The slide/frame combo looks good, I used the Essex Enhanced frame w/rail and Fusion slide for my last project. The Fosters might have been a better choice for me than the Essex, but I got a light rail receiver for right at $200 bucks (thru my FFL) so I can't complain. Have you bought your internals yet? If not, do you know what you are going to use? Keep us updated!

[NightVision]

Buying the frame and slide are the cheapest part of the build. Wait to you start to buy the proper tooling and measuring devices for your build. Take your time and check your measurements. I recommend the Jerry Kuhnhausen Manuals Vol 1&2. If your tolerances are correct and you do your homework, you will have a feeling of great accomplishment and a 1911 that will blow away any store bought gun.

Good luck in your endeavor, take your time, do the math and enjoy the journey.

[erwittry]

Hurry up and order your Bomar sight my friend, I hear that they are becoming obsolete.
Thank you very very much for the advice. Couldn't find them at Midway.com, Brownells.com etc. Luckily EGW had them on their site. I've placed the order...

I always assumed they were the "standard". I hope they're retooling, and not going out-of-business.

I think the real trick it to take your time, don't rush it, uses files and emery cloth, not a dremel, and ask questions if you aren't sure of something. Metal comes off a lot easier than it goes back on.

Don't own a dremel :) The good thing is that I don't have a timeline. If it takes 6 months or even a year to get it done "right", I'm fine with that timeline. I've got some of the basic mics and calipers, but I'm somewhat expecting the tool budget to match the parts budget.

As far as internals, I've haven't built a complete list. I figured I would start with the trigger group either from cylinder+ slide or from EGW.
Chip McCormick Beavertail (was suggested as easy to fit by Caspian)
Ed brown slide stop, thumb safety, and extractor.
ISMI springs.

Will let you know when I order, probably late this month early next...

[Joni Lynn]

If you want a BoMar rear sight and not a copy get them now, last I heard the owner passed away and things have pretty much stopped.

[Hawkmoon]

Good choice on parts. The Frankengun was also built on a Caspian/Foster Recon Rail receiver:

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/AguilaBlanca/100-0097_IMG.jpg

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=11509&highlight=Frankengun+junk+parts

[NightVision]

Wilson Combat makes a direct replacement rear sight assy to fit in slides that have the lowered BoMar cut in them. Do not fret about it. Buy one of the Wilsons, They have a better selection of sight planes and tritium inserts. I have several BoMars as well. BoMar was living on their laurels for a long time and did not feel they needed to keep up with their customers requests. The Wilson Combat replacement is better made than BoMar. Maybe that is why BoMar is vanishing into the sunset. Listen to your customers.

[tightgroups]

Nope,

Someone in the family was killed in an auto accident and Bo-Mar decided to close its doors. The quality has always been excellent and if something ain't broke then there isn't any reason to tinker with it. Bo-Mar never ever had a problem outselling the other adjustable sight makers, ask any bullseye shooter out there and he or she will either have a Bo-Mar or a sight that is simply a Bo-mar copy.

[erwittry]

Ok,
Starting to look at my barrel options.
Does it make sense to consider steel barrel (non-stainless)?
I see that both Kart (4150) and Les Baer (4350) have steel barrels. My CZ75Sp-01 has a steel barrel, and while cosmetically it leaves much to be desired, it is almost a mirror on the inside and is easy to clean.

Both the factory, and the storm lake barrel I've had in my springfields have been stainless. They've both been a bear to clean.

How would you go about making a steel barrel cosmetically appealing? Can you parkerize it (maybe a different color than the rest of the pistol)? Or will this mess up the bore? Any other ideas?

What brands require chamber reaming, which don't? Half the listings on Midway and Brownells don't mention whether or not the barrel is short chambered?

[skunkworks]

nice components, crazy like a fox. when finished [though they tend to keep evolving] it will be the gun you always pick to take plinking. you know it, you built it, you'll love it, enjoy and take your time.

[erwittry]

Ok,
I've ran into my first problem... first a status report.

1) Fitted the slide to frame. Started with #2 swiss file and a black magic marker. Then lapped with 600 then 1000 grit lapping compound.
2) Fitted the trigger.
3) Fitted the Firing Pin Stop
4) Fitted the Firing Pin (YES, I though that surely that would be drop in, but after buying 2, I had to spin one of them down .002 to get it to fit)
5) Fitted the Beavertail
6) Fitted the Thumb Safety
7) Installed the C&S Tactical II drop in trigger kit...this is where my problem occurred.

Well, my 'Drop In' kit didn't drop in.

When I cock the hammer by hand, the hammer stays cocked. When the hammer is down, and I rack the slide (thus cocking the hammer), the hammer follows to half-cock. The gun is not yet functional, so I cannot yet give a live-fire, or dry fire on a dummy round to check hammer follow. However, I don't think this will illustrate the problem I'm having.

If I cock the hammer (by hand) and THEN rack the slide, the hammer doesn't ever touch the firing pin stop, nor does it 'drag' on the bottom of the slide. Moreover I can stick a .015 (maybe less, hard to tell if its binding the spring) feeler gauge in the gap between the bottom of the slide and the hammer.

The following are the best pictures I can get out of my camera.
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/1911_20071212004.jpg
http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g164/erwittry/1911_20071212012.jpg

I'm thinking, from my reading/searches, a long sear? I measured the distance from the bottom of the sear pin to the top of the engagement surface as .463". Any thoughts?

[NightVision]

Hi erwittry, The engagement points of the sear and hammer needs shortning. The removal of metal from the sear and the hammer contact points will reduce hammer travel rearwards and engage Hammer/sear sooner.

[kcshooter]

Well, my 'Drop In' kit didn't drop in.No such thing as drop-in. It shouldn't fit, you should need to at least finish the engagement areas, which is why you are having the issue.

Drop in parts are a myth, like Bigfoot, Santa, or logical women :D

[NightVision]

Take a drill bit that fits through the hole in the hammer pivot hole with minimal side play. Use the shank end. Put both hammers on the shaft together and compare the hammer engagement ledge lengths and also check to see if the hole in the new hammer pivot hole is drilled in the correct location. Check the distance from the pivot hole to top of hammer to see if if the length is short. Do the same with the sear as well. Tolerance stacking between your parts and frame pivot hole location determine the actual fitup and the true dimensions and timing you need for your frame.

In essence the Hammer is not rotating rearward the needed degrees from vertical to engage the hammer/sear contact ledges when the slide FPS passes the maximum contact height of the hammer.

I am not sure if this is a new build or retro fit gun. I am assuming you have the old parts that you removed worked before you upgraded.

[Joni Lynn]

[QUOTE=or logical women :D[/QUOTE]?
Hey!!! I may resemble that remark!

[erwittry]

From searching existing forum posts it looks like 2/3 of people get it to drop in. This gun's from scratch, so I have no bench-mark to compare to. Either way, it'll be on hold until early Feb. when I can order a sear/hammer jig. Any preferences out there. Power custom I or II, or anything else people prefer?