trigger kit?

[biglou13]

when purchasing a trigger kit from after market mfg. eg. EGW. or other. is it necessary to stone angles as shown in brownells web bench?

and how much fitting is necessary?

are they direct drop in?

[emilio]

Brownells shows one of the more thorough jobs you can do on a hammer and sear, including plenty of their special tools ($$$). while i was thinking about going this route for my RIA, precision sear and hammer hook cutting seems a delicate and potentially dangerous art.

so i just decided to avoid it altogether and track down parts with a reputation for being "drop-in" or "easy fit" with respectable quality. i ended up with a Wilson A-2 sear, Fusion hammer, EGW disconnector, Colt sear spring (from an ISMI kit) and Berryhill trigger (though the trigger is the least important part of this equation). they did indeed drop in very easily, the only thing i really needed to do was adjust my thumb safety, and that was just because of the new trigger. i also polished the sides of the hammer to slick up the cycling.

and how'd it work? very well! i haven't measured the trigger pull, but it's probably in the 5lbs area and very crisp. the only thing i might do is put a very slight secondary angle on the sear, it feels like it might be slightly stiff right before the trigger breaks.

that was my positive experience, and that wasn't even a kit from a single manufacturer. a buddy bought the "Tactical" kit from Cylinder and Slide, and that dropped in just as easily with a lighter, even crisper pull than my mix of parts (secondary angle is already cut, for one). so i would expect the same from an EGW kit, and if you gave them a call they might even be able to tweak the kit to your liking before sending it out.

all-in-all, selecting good quality parts is the key to an easy trigger job. if you're doing the work yourself, the money spent on good parts will save you from spending money on special tools, save time for installation, and pay off with greater durability in the long run.

- emilio

[pa_guns]

Hi

The problem with a drop in trigger kit is that you don't know the geometry of the frame. The idea is to get the sear so it fully contacts the hammer. Doing that requires a bit of touchup. I would not recommend doing that freehand.

Bob

[berkbw]

Some problems arise here..
The degree of perfection in the holes - in the frame - in the tool - in the sear and hammer.

Genitian blue is your friend - take a small bottle to your 'smith.

I may be wrong here, and Tuner will correct me, but given the tolerances in the MILITARY let alone clones, make the "perfect trigger" a "one off" for any gun.

It IS possible to have a great trigger that later suddenly fails in function.

Be carefull

[Ping Ping]

when purchasing a trigger kit from after market mfg. eg. EGW. or other. is it necessary to stone angles as shown in brownells web bench?


Almost never. The angles on the C&S and EGW kits are extremely well tuned. However, the sear spring will need some minor tweaking to get it to exactly your prefered pull wt.

[wichaka]

If you're going to go that way, i would recommend a kit from either C&S or EGW.....by far the best out there.

[jwenum]

I used a McCormick hammer&sear with a Clark 4-finger sear spring.Just kinda polished the sear fingers a little and I love it.Didn't even touch the sear or hammer angles.Has 'Tuner' ever tried the 4-finger spring??

[NightVision]

The crispness and accuracy depends on the relationship of the pin holes location drilled into the frame. As pa guns stated. The jig that is used to setup the hammer/sear is correct to the jig, but might not be correct for your frame. All frame dimensions have a degree of variation in distances apart. Especially in older and highly cycled guns. A alternative is to use the external pins sold by Brownells to inspect the engagement of hammer/sear on the outside of the gun where you can see for yourself the contact angles proportionately to your frame.