Duracoating....

[UrbanTiger74]

Has anybody ventured into this realm? I've read that all you need is a airbrush set up and your good to go. I'd like to hear what you guys have done and what's necessary to do one's own duracoating. Thanks!!!

[southbound]

I think you need to blast off the old finish for best results..

[Linkinlog]

Duracoat works best with a parkarized coating underneath so you should be good to go. I did mine but I was too impatient and got a few runs. It's not hard to do but you have to go slow and do light coats. I got too anxious and ruined mine.

[southbound]

Duracoat works best with a parkarized coating underneath so you should be good to go. I did mine but I was too impatient and got a few runs. It's not hard to do but you have to go slow and do light coats. I got too anxious and ruined mine.

I did not know this!!

Sorry to hear that.Have you been able to fix it?

I think if I go that way I will ship to....Mac's (http://www.shootiniron.com/#.)

See what you miss when you stop coming by!!

[SAS Mayhem]

I had my EAA Witness done buy MAC's and he does a stellar job for an outstanding price. Very quick service and honest. My gun is the Witness you see on his web site. In fact I already sent him a money order to cover the cost of my Rock when I send it. I'm going for a black over black. He also massages the internals too. When my pistol came back form him, all of the notchy/gritty feel was totally gone from the trigger.

[brassjunkie]

I have used dura-coat to date on over 75 firearms and countless other items and can tell you that it can range from easy to difficult depending on your expectations,skill level, and eye for detail. Having said that, you can get everything you need to finish 2-4 firearms in an entry level kit for right at about $50 and all you have to do is pick the color you want ( I added a link below). You can add an additional color for about $17. There are kits that go up from there or you can purchase your equipment elsewhere as well. The airbrush that comes with the kit is actually pretty good for an entry level rig and has an adapter for an air hose hook up. If you use it on a regular air compressor you will need a regulator to keep your pressure down. I have an inline drier on mine as well to keep moisture in the air hose from contaminating the mix.

The majority of your time should be spent on prep work. For best results completely strip and thouroughly clean and degrease the parts you intend to finish, completely! This is the most important step of all. You do not need to remove the previous finish unless it is a coated finish and damaged at which point you will want to blast it or have this done. Alum. Oxide in the range of 80 to 100 grit is the preferable media for this as it gives a nicer frosted finish as opposed to the pitted finish of silica sand or glass beads. This can be done on a blued or SS part as well as it will help the dura-coat adhere better to the part.

Pay close attention to your mixing ratios. I find 12:1 is what I use the most.
Adjust your spray to a very,very fine mist (almost invisible) for the first coat to get total coverage. This will take longer yet alow you to get into tight places without fear of messing up and give a perfectly even and smooth finish.Turn it up just a bit for the next 2 coats and hold about 6" from the work peice and move in consistant motions. If you want a flat parked looking finish with a reg. color simply turn up the flow a little more on the last coat and hold about 10" to 12" away to spray and mist the part.

That was short hand for the long answer! :geek: The short answer is to get the listed kit below, strip, degrease, mix, adj. flow,spray,spray,spray,
then................. you have options at this point. bake at 150 deg. for 30-45 min. if you like. I do as it helps the cure process and bonds the finish to the part. You can reassemle as soon as cool and be ready to go, or (as I do) let the parts set for 2 weeks to obtain a full cure to be sure no blems (accidents in normal use) occur as well as keeping oils and all other lubes off the finish until it has reached full cure.

If you mess up you have 2 basic options depending on how bad it is. A slight smear or imperfection can be sanded smooth with some 600 grit wet/dry paper, but only after the part is dry (not cured). In the event you make a ooops, simply soak the part in accetone, remove all the finish with a scrubber and start over from scratch.

I would reccomend this kit for the beginner. Just pick your color and your ready to go.
EZ finish kit (http://www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?ID=DCEFK&image=ezkit.gif&frameset=1)


Linkinlog,

What ratio of reducer did you use? How far away were you spraying from?You may have had it mixed to thin or had your flow set way to high. That is about the only 2 ways you can get dura coat to run, at least in my experience. I use a CC medicine dropper to mix all batches no matter how big or small. Here is what I do. 12:1 +2 to 3 drops (12cc dura-coat : 1cc hardner + 2 to 3 drops of reducer). Hope this helps on your next project! :)

Sorry for the book, but I hope someone gets some usefull info. out of it! :o

[F.D. Coonrod]

If you are nervous about the mixing, airbrushing etc. you might consider the Durabake finish in the spray can. I've had good luck with that and it is a tough finish. Use the tru-strip cleaner and take your time and you will be well satisfied. just a thought. good luck.

[dogmush]

I Dura-coated mine with pretty good results. I have a big thick coat on most of the weapon, but I will say that next time I will pay a little more attention to the hard to reach places, (trigger guard, spring tunnel and such) I've been carring mine daily for about 4 mos now, and the finish is holding up well. Ease of application is somewere between powdercoating, and automotive paint. Definatly a lot easeir the car paint though. Paitence, and some scrap practice before you start on your gun is the key. Some more details of mine can be had here:

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=27339&page=1&pp=10

If you're any kind of do-it-yourselfer, give it a try. It was really satisfing for me.

[Cap]

Sorry for the book, but I hope someone gets some usefull info. out of it! :o

Actually it has helped quite a bit and i'm ready to make an order.

a few questions for clarification.
You say prep work is the most important step.
I can dig it.

The gun I first plan to experiment with is my RIA.
It's a park finish.
I don't need to do anything except degrease thoroughly with TruStrip????

I played around with one side of the slide and sanded all the finish off and applied cold blue as an experiment.
What prep is needed for that (to apply Duracoat over)?

Also, if i want a glass smooth semi gloss finish, what's the best way to achieve that?
If I have some scratches, can i simply sand & polish them out and then Duracoat?
(obviously the park finish will be gone in those spots and only bare metal)

Lastly, will the 9oz can of air that comes with the kit be enough to experiment on scrap metal, as well as apply multiple coats to one pistol??

Thanks.

PS..anyone else with Duracoat experience PLEASE add your input/expertise as well



..L.T.A.

[K71BL]

Cap,

I did my 870 Tact Shotgun with OD Green Duracoat. I got the basic kit, and worked on some of the small parts first to get a feel for the process. I did not like the canned air, AT ALL !!! The can frosts' over and you loose pressure, have to wait for the air to warm up and go at it again. I highly recommend a compressor and a good airbrush. (look online @ Hobby Lobby for a coupon. I got a $100.00 airbrush for 50% off) Spend a little more on the tool and the work will flow much better. Keeping a consistent coating on larger pieces (shotgun barrel) was a bit tricky, but like several others have said. . . . take your time and go lightly. If you don't have a compressor, borrow a buddies.

Overall, I think it's a good product and am looking forward to doing more.
Hope your project works for you. :)

[Cap]

Thanks, K7!

i do have a couple compressors.
One I have would probably be good, cause it's a small 1gal model I use for small brad nailing projects.

I was wondering about the canned air, Cause i really didn't want to buy a water seperator and regulator.
Guess maybe I will, though.

Thanks for your help

..l.T.A.

[dogmush]

Cap, K7's right. The canned air is really a pain. I had a hard time even getting thinned paint to flow well with it. You should already have some kind of regulator to run tools? and you can pick up a disposable dessicant can for around $7 at any good dicount tool store. The compressor is really the way to go on this project though.

As far as the Parking, yep just srip it and shoot it, the Dura-Coat sticks well to Parkerizing. On the blued side you might want to rough it up some so the textures match or you might be able to tell the difference through the coating.

[K71BL]

Cap,

dogmush is right also, you should have a pressure regulator on your pancake compressor. All you need is a Kobalt (Lowes) water trap and a few fittings. Might run 20 - 30 $. The positive to the water trap is that you now have moisture protection for your nail guns as well as your airbrush.