Replacing trigger on Dan Wesson

[Armorer]

I've recently purchased a Dan Wesson Guardian Duce-- wonderfully fitted, but the stock trigger appears to have run its course...alittle too much finger results in the trigger shoe catching. The bow isn't binding-- the actual trigger face is simply catching to one side or the other.
Now, DW were stock with a Chip McCormick light weight, 3-hole trigger. The store I work in so happens to carry the same make and model.
Here's my dilemma:
1) I'm happy with the gun's current trigger job as far as sear and hammer fit-- the sear spring is fine.
2) I'm not looking to decrease trigger pull-- as a CCW comander sized pistol, I prefer a 5 pound pull.
3) Would said duplicate trigger be able to "drop in with only minor buffing without having to likewise replace hammer and sear?
4) Would a wilson or chipmcormick sear spring be a suitable replacement should it be necessary?

Until this issue is resolved, I'm shy to use it for carry. Likewise, my budget is nill for even considering a brownells kit much less send it to a reputible smith.
Unless 1911Tuner wouldn't mind the job on a budget for the joy of working on an oddball pistol.
http://a841.ac-images.myspacecdn.com/images01/94/l_a6fbc08b417f31b4eec05bc0cfd12950.jpg
DW GD PM7:
Fitted Jarvis .451 barrel
Chrome STI extended slidestop, safety, magwell, and gripsafety (frame is original finish, just glare from the release)
unknown beautiful grips
tri-wing screws
Ed Brown flat, snake skin MSH
Expert style rear sight.

[1911Tuner]

I've got a couple triggers layin' around. I'll fix it, but you'd have to bring it to me. No FFL any more, so I can't receive it. Might be worth the trip to get the "inside" story on your pistol.

Where in Georgia are ya?

[Ric4509]

Tuner is absolutely the expert on this. I have replaced triggers in my Dan Wesson CBob and for my full size with Chevron cocking serrations. What I noticed is that the the part in the grip safety that engages the trigger bow was not filed but the back of the trigger bow that engages that part was filed. I'm referring to both pistols. If that's the case in yours all you need to do is adjust the upper and bottom portion of the trigger and also work on the grip safety. Otherwise, just trigger adjustment.

[pa_guns]

Hi

If it was me I'd take Tuner up on his offer in a heartbeat. You get the coffee as a bonus ...

To answer the original question - the replacement trigger should drop in fairly easily. It should not impact the sear / hammer relationship. That will keep you out of the "need to do a full trigger job" part of the process.

I'd still run over and say hi to Tuner ...

Bob

[1911Tuner]

And Ric very likely pinpointed the real problem. Hard to say without seeing the gun...but that's usually what causes a sticky trigger in factory fitted guns.

A quick test to find out...

Get the trigger to stick, and push in on the grip safety lightly. If the trigger resets...Buy Ric a box of ammo. ;)

[1911Tuner]

Forgot to mention...I ain't hard to get to from the Peach State. Straight up I-85...exit...three turns. Total of five minutes from the interstate. Say when. We'll leave the light on for ya.

[Armorer]

I'd love to say yes and be on my way. Unfortunately, time is not permitting until probably november for the drive-- You're actually not far from my sister-- an undergraduate advisor for Duke-- and fairly certain I know where you're at.
I'm in the tail end of the state, 30 minutes from the Fla. Border-- roughly 6.5-7 hours to Durham if I cut across to Brunswick on 122, skip 135, and take the mare's leg up the coast.
This close to season, and regional gun shows up, I'm seeing heavy business til the end of winter-- my current hitch has me swinging the 8 til 7 shift tending to his gun shop. Free day every other friday-- Which screws me for any kind of travel.

I broke her out to check the suggestion, only to find her dusted with a light sheen of rusticles. I got her soaking right now-- Once she's pulled together I'll check the gripsafety/trigger bow connection. Otherwise, I'm having second thoughts to the state of the sear spring and considering opting out for a chip mccormick or wilson-- shop carries both.

Tuner, if you knew anything of the gun, I'd pay to know. As far as I know, it belonged to a local shooter, J. Coody, an amateur smith who I've heard tell had a habit of fiddling with his guns. I've known folks who've bought other old guns of his, and heard no complaints. Main reason I bought the gun was part project, part curio.
Now I'm kinda reluctant to bob the frame.

[pa_guns]

my current hitch has me swinging the 8 til 7 shift tending to his gun shop. Free day every other friday--

Hi

In most states there's a word for that kind of work week (11 hours a day, 13 out of 14 days working). I do believe the word is illegal ...

and yes, been there done that (the work week, not the busted part).

Bob

[Armorer]

My fault-- a tired mind and not enough clarity-- the work week's tues through saturday, off sunday and monday. on the books I'm putting in 40 hours at minimum, whatever else for my private time in our shop working on my guns using their equipment. I consider any other anemities on my part fair dispensation for learning smithing from a qualified, certified military armorer: the store smith.
I'm sorry to OT in my own thread, but, by trade; I am a college english prof-- M.a. in british literature, focusing in biography and composition. I wasn't hired by the major state university for our town this year, leaving me stranded without another teaching position anywhere until January at the soonest. I'm broke and trading old, useless gear (for example: a 90rnd drum mag I was gifted by an acquiantence) for ammunition. Turned down at McD's and Books-a-Million for too many degrees. This was the first job I could get.

I make my roll pin punches from scrap delrin rods I turn down in my makeshift "lathe" (i.e. Ryobi 14vlt drill + exacto + steady hand + calipers). Lost bushing wrench? Plastic floor chip with a bushing face cut out via makeshift rotozip.
::nods::
and yes, I polish using an old gum eraser and mother's own.

[1911Tuner]

Armorer...I'm about an hour point-five from Durham. 85 miles give or take...

If it tures out to be the contact with the top of the trigger stirrup/underside of the grip safety lug...and you can get the gun apart, the fix is pretty easy. If you don't know how to detail strip it, sing out. If you can put a model car together, you're over-qualified.

For clearancing in cases like this...whenever possible...I like to take a little material from both parts instead of all from one...so you'll need to strip it all the way down to the trigger.

McCormick and Wilson sear springs are probably both made by Wolff. I prefer Colt's OEM sear spring to either. The one thing to watch for with a sear spring swap is to see that it doesn't contact the disconnector spade in the wrong place...too high or too low. Either one can cause problems. It's usually not the sear spring that's to blame. Most often, it's the locating slot in the frame that's out of spec.

[Armorer]

I had a big long explanation written up, and on the last thought, hit delete.
I'd already made up my mind by this morning to part ways with the gun.
After my last post, I stripped the gun down and did a full run down.
The sear spring was stiff-- the bakelite finish to it flaking off and the gripsafety leaf tortioned. Straighted the flex some to spec.
The rear face of the GS lug itself showed wear-- obvious signs the previous owner hadn't properly fitted. Used a diamond hone to debur and then an indian stone to finish the face.
Variation of Ric's problem-- although the trigger didn't reset as described by pressing on grip safety. Used a blue felt tip to mark the rear face of the trigger bow and reassembled before slowly working the action. Disassembled and I polished the spots ink was cleared from the bow.
Trigger problem fixed.
I then noticed three other problems:
1) The sear lip wasn't the proper 90* and thus weak on half cock...a hair shy to being completely worn.
2) The firing pin stop lip was nearly rounded and uneven. An obvious job down on a buffer wheel without polishing medium-- a nice heat rainbow on the metal.
3) The extractor claw, while still rigid, seemed weak.

I reassembled and did a refit-- the trigger was excellent. A crisp 4.5 pounds on the scale.
But...
Regardless of racking speed-- a simple slide close or a sling shot-- failed to return the slide to full battery. Slide portruded back 1/24th of an inch and would not move forward until the hammer dropped-- slow follow failed to budge slide.

Quick Brownells scan later and I was on the range to determine the risk.
I put 25 rounds of Fiocchi through her--
She was accurate as ever...when she fed.
Casings were ejecting low 12 o'clock and hitting my chest.
Failure to return to battery repeatedly and randomly.
Jams were the last 1/16th an inch or deep throat 3-points-- only one jam returned to full with a slight amount of pressure on the slide. otherwise every jam required a full clear.
No stove pipes.
no failure to ejects.
No trigger hang up
But no desire for the pistol anymore.

A gun show was in town so I ran up there about lunch time and paced the floor for three hours. Simply sad affair for what shows around here used to be--
Found another gun worked on by same smith-- an Essex with an old FN Argentinian slide. Recognized the guy's work from similar stop, safety, magwell, and gripsafety.
Recognized another dog.
Plenty of folks looked, no serious offers, was knocked back and forth-- show manager wouldn't go better'n 4-- darned blue book shot me down to 6 in change and the guy wouldn't even handle the swap on a Olympic targetmaster (had an itch for a long slide too dangit)...and as regional supplier it bugs me knowing what his cost was the his pistol.
Managed to swap with another fellow for an early Springfield Loaded. Brazil frame, real Novak sites but plain, a kind of parkarized OD green Armoy Kote finish.
Far from what my target was, but made the deal out of simple disgust-- lesson learned.
Now I've just gotta remember how to check the serial neumber on my new springfield to verify age and get an positive ID on the exact configuration. Came with a Team Springfield bag typical of the custom shop models-- stamp on dustcover isn't Imbel, simply "F.I. Brazil."

I feel this is a weak ending to this topic, however, would still like to visit Tuner if I'm ever up that way. I've other projects and would appreciate aid. I'm stil de-MIMing my Kimber, and a cup of joe and healthy comraderie would be appreciated.

[pa_guns]

Hi

Sounds like a pretty mucked up 1911. I certainly hope the new one wasn't worked on by the same guy. :D :nono: :scared:

Bob