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View Full Version : Change in ejection pattern


2Barrels
30th July 2007, 18:09
Hi,
The ejection pattern of my full size Colt XSE with under 300 rounds fired has suddenly changed! It is now rather sporadic ranging from ejecting cases directly back at me (hitting me in the safety glasses) to over my back to out in front of me. Prior to this change the cases flew predictably out to the side. What changed??? Thanks.

Hersh
30th July 2007, 18:35
Sounds like your extractor may be clocking ( rotating in its tunnel) to me. If this happens, the case hits the ejector at different positions which causes squirrely ejection.

Para45
30th July 2007, 20:15
could be a loose ejector too. When you take your slide off, check to see if it is loose. have had this happen to me in the past, front leg sheared on me.

Joni Lynn
30th July 2007, 21:19
It might even be a build up of dirt in the extractor channel. If you take the gun apart, you'll be able to see if it has a clocking extractor/loose firing pin stop, and also check the extractor tension while you're at it. If the gun has an extended ejector there's a small chance the tip of it broke off.

2Barrels
30th July 2007, 23:52
Sounds like your extractor may be clocking ( rotating in its tunnel) to me. If this happens, the case hits the ejector at different positions which causes squirrely ejection.
What causes this and how is it remedied? Thanks.

David Rose
31st July 2007, 00:15
The extractor is held in position by the firing pin stop. This is the small insignificant looking plate that holds in the extractor and firing pin. IF it fits the slot in the slide almost snugly and the slot in the back of the extractor the same way, that is not the problem. But in my experience, very few fit well. You can almost always improve things with a new one that must be fitted. Fitting is easily done with only a file and a bit of time and care. It's well worth the time if fit seems even a tiny bit lose.

Take a small flat end object like a punch. With hammer cocked or slide back, press the top of the back end of the extractor very firmly. Did it move? No? Good. Now try pressing the bottom. Still no movement? The stop is probably not allowing the extractor to clock.

David

What causes this and how is it remedied? Thanks.

2Barrels
31st July 2007, 09:06
The extractor is held in position by the firing pin stop. This is the small insignificant looking plate that holds in the extractor and firing pin. IF it fits the slot in the slide almost snugly and the slot in the back of the extractor the same way, that is not the problem. But in my experience, very few fit well. You can almost always improve things with a new one that must be fitted. Fitting is easily done with only a file and a bit of time and care. It's well worth the time if fit seems even a tiny bit lose.

Take a small flat end object like a punch. With hammer cocked or slide back, press the top of the back end of the extractor very firmly. Did it move? No? Good. Now try pressing the bottom. Still no movement? The stop is probably not allowing the extractor to clock.

David
David, I did this test but want to make sure I'm doing it correctly.

If I press the extractor at the complete back end (where it appears round as it sits flush in the extractor channel at the rear of the slide), on the bottom, it moves into the channel ever so slightly. But if I press it on the side (where a short length of it is exposed in the extractor channel when viewed looking inside the slide), I can get it to rock (or clock?) freely.

So are you saying the only remedy is a tighter fitting firing pin stop? Should I order one from Colt or would another make be a better choice? Where do you typically have to file to fit it? What type of file is best for this - - I'll need to buy one. Anything else I should do? Thanks!

niemi24s
31st July 2007, 17:13
The second description you gave in the second paragraph is that of a clocking extractor - when viewed from the rear, the extractor is free to rotate clockwise and counterclockwise about its axis.

You'll no doubt need to get an oversized firing pin stop and fit it. EGW makes them and Brownells sells them. See the sticky "Amazing Reduction in Recoil . . " for lots of fitting info.

Joni Lynn
31st July 2007, 18:04
I'd suggest the EGW firing pin stop. They make one for series 70 and one for series 80.
It doesn't take too much to fit it to the gun then your problem should be improved.

2Barrels
31st July 2007, 20:47
I'd suggest the EGW firing pin stop. They make one for series 70 and one for series 80.
It doesn't take too much to fit it to the gun then your problem should be improved.
Thanks to all for your assistance; will order EGW stop and try my hand at fitting!

2Barrels
8th August 2007, 23:38
OK, EGW FPS is in; where do I begin? :confused:

emilio
9th August 2007, 00:27
this very, very long thread (http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13060) covers the wonders of the oversize FPS. the first 4-5 pages should tell you everything you need to know. 'Tuner recommends a new 16lbs recoil spring and 23lbs main spring for the full recoil-smoothing results, but the stop alone should help your extractor stability.

the bottom line is to carefully cut that bottom radius, then slowly file the sides 'till it fits in the channel.

the best example out of the whole bunch is probably srt's FPS:
http://srtadlock.net/images/kimberParts2.jpg

yeah, it's pretty!

- emilio

2Barrels
9th August 2007, 15:36
this very, very long thread (http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=13060) covers the wonders of the oversize FPS. the first 4-5 pages should tell you everything you need to know. 'Tuner recommends a new 16lbs recoil spring and 23lbs main spring for the full recoil-smoothing results, but the stop alone should help your extractor stability.

the bottom line is to carefully cut that bottom radius, then slowly file the sides 'till it fits in the channel.

the best example out of the whole bunch is probably srt's FPS:


yeah, it's pretty!

- emilio
Many thanks Emilio, and to all the subject matter experts who contributed in the referenced post.

I decided to mail the stops back to EGW; George offered to put on the bevel ("break the corners" as he called it) for me. The lady who took my order actually asked me if I wanted them to do that before they shipped them; she called in "champhering." Alas I didn't know enough about it to know what they were offering! :butthead: Oh well, it only cost me 80 cents to go back.

I asked George for advice on fitting the stops to the slide. He described a method of using a "fine" or "smooth" file to take metal off the sides while checking with a caliper to insure that the sides are even. Any assistance such as that referenced above specific to fitting the stops would be most appreciated!

Colt45guy
10th August 2007, 16:35
I had forgotten all about that sticky--As soon as I clicked this thread, I was thinking to myself...."Self, there was something about this that I needed to do..."

WOOHOO! My Train of Thought just came full circle, and I ordered the OS FPS.