Newbie finish question

[Edd]

Hey guys. I have a Custom II and the finish on parts of the thumb safety is gone. I bought some Birchwood Casey "Perma Blue" stuff in a blue bottle and it had no effect. Any suggestions on touching up the finish on my thumb safety? Thanks.

[Frank]

First, welcome. As to your question, I've noticed that most cold bluing I've used requires multiple coats and colors rather slowly. Remember, it's not a paint. You are chemically oxidizing the steel, and that can take time and many applications for the color to come up. It may also be that the steel is a fairly corrosion resistant alloy making things even tougher.

You might also want to reflect on the fact that bluing wears pretty readily, and cold bluing tends not to be a robust as good hot or rust bluing. And the thumb safety is a high wear part, so if you do manage to touch it up with cold bluing, you'll be back where you started with not too much use. Personally, I don't mind some honest wear on my guns.

DVC

[Edd]

Thank you for the welcome and very helpful information. I've tried multiple coats of the cold blue and there is no visible results. I found a product called Perma Black which looks like a black paint marker. It is also made by Birchwood Casey. On the website they list a gloss version and flat version. I think the flat version may match the best. Anyone have experience with this product or have any other suggestions? I know this is kind of a trivial issue but this is my favorite pistol and I'm very proud of it's appearance. Thanks.

[Edd]

Oh yeah sorry about posting in the wrong forum. I'll try to become more familiar with the site.

[David Rose]

If there was literally "no" effect, then possibly the part is stainless. If so, you will have to coat it rather than blue.

David

[Frank]

David,

I seem to recall reading somewhere that Kimber uses a lot of stainless parts. I guess the idea is that since there is a considerable demand for stainless guns, it makes production sense to use the same small parts (stainless) for both. If that's the case, I guess they would need to use some sort of a coating to blacken the small parts for blued models. But if the part is coated, wouldn't the finish be more resistant to wear?

DVC

[David Rose]

Frank, also look at EGW's bushings for an example. The price is the same for stainless and carbon. Since I Gun-Kote most of what I build, I will buy stainless everytime if the price is the same. The finish adheres the same, and if it should wear off, rust is much less likely on the bare part. And yes, a good tough coating will take some of the wear.

David



David,

I seem to recall reading somewhere that Kimber uses a lot of stainless parts. I guess the idea is that since there is a considerable demand for stainless guns, it makes production sense to use the same small parts (stainless) for both. If that's the case, I guess they would need to use some sort of a coating to blacken the small parts for blued models. But if the part is coated, wouldn't the finish be more resistant to wear?

DVC

[aphco]

Edd: If it is not stainless steel, read the post elsewhere on this same forum titled,"picture sequence and instructions for Cold Blueing." That will probably help you out.

[Edd]

Thanks to everyone for the great information. I picked up a flat black touch up marker from Cabela's last night. I applied it and then hand rubbed the dried paint down smoothly and it blended in almost perfectly with the existing finish. Once again I really appreciate all of your very helpful input.

[emilio]

that's an interesting idea, Edd. did you rub it down with some cloth and then apply more coats? i bought a Birchwood Casey flat black touch-up pen thinking it was a cold blue pen, and was kind of let down when it rubbed off of some surfaces pretty quickly... but that was just one coat on a surface that gets a lot of wear (pocket knife clip). i've been hesitant to use it on guns for that reason, but i didn't think about rubbing down coats.

- emilio

[Edd]

First I let the paint almost completely dry and then rubbed/smoothed the edges with just a little paint thinner on my finger to thin out the paint, feather the edges and achieve a smoother finish. I doubt it will be a very durable quick fix but it does the trick for the time being.

[Edd]

David,

I seem to recall reading somewhere that Kimber uses a lot of stainless parts. I guess the idea is that since there is a considerable demand for stainless guns, it makes production sense to use the same small parts (stainless) for both. If that's the case, I guess they would need to use some sort of a coating to blacken the small parts for blued models. But if the part is coated, wouldn't the finish be more resistant to wear?

DVCI called Kimber today and spoke to Anne. All the small parts like the thumb safety, slide stop, grip safety and sights are all stainless. I'm just going to polish the thumb safety and possibly the slide stop. I think it's going look nice and make my custom II stand out a little.

[parrothead2581]

If you don't mind, post pictures of this when you finish.

I found the finish on my Cuatom II thumb safety to wear very rapidly. I can live with it there. Call it character. There are however, a couple of scratches elsewhere. I too have one of those touch up pens. It works well for me until I go to clean, then it wears of fairly easily. I'll have to try the smearing technique sometime. Sounds good. :)

[Edd]

Yeah the smearing technique just blends it in a little better. It comes off ridiculously easy though. I found out the slide stop and grip safety are not stainless. I did purchase a cold blue product called "Super Blue" and it touches up very well. It looked great after just one application. It's made by Birchwood Casey and comes in a little blue bottle.

[parrothead2581]

How about the mgazine release button? Does anyone have problems with the finish on it wearing off pretty quickly?

[Edd]

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z131/ptownzphynest/DSCF0250.jpg

[Edd]

I also polished the barrel bushing since it's stainless. I think I'm going to buy a stainless slide stop as well from Kimber's website.