To grind or not to grind.......

[papashah41]

Getting started "rebuilding" my new "70 series"....installing a Wilson trigger (can't stand the stock "short" one), a Wilson "drop in" beavertail and matching hammer, extended thumb safety, etc.....
Anyways.....lowering and flairing the ejection port.... why? I'm having trouble justifying the added expense of grinding and reblueing my slide for what benefit? People say "It aids in ejection".....but does it really? I mean...M-1911's fought many wars with "stock" ejection ports. I never recall hearing a problem with 'em stovepiping. Now....a lowered and flaired port certainly won't HURT anything (except maybe your wallet :rolleyes: ), but how much does it actually help?
Seriously......are most/all of the "tricked out" 1911's out there sporting lowered/flaired ports for a spicific reason? Or because....well....tricked out 1911's simply must have ground ports to be considered "tricked out"! :p

[govtmodel]

Unless you are going to mount a scope on your pistol, don't worry about it.

[wichaka]

I've built many Series 70 Colts for L.E. use, and I never lowered one of them. As long as you've got quality parts (extractor-ejector) in there and they're tuned properly, you shouldn't have any problems.

[garrettwc]

If it is reliable right now, grinding on it won't make it more reliable.

[Rush]

A lowered and flared port may or may not be easier on the brass, but my observation is that it will allow you to eject unfired rounds that have a longer overall length than the old standard port will. I have never worried about it with my Series 70 Govt. Good luck with your decision.

[stans]

Lowering the port often lessens or eliminates the crease or ding in the case mouth of ejected brass, otherwise it does little else. If you do choose to lower the ejection port opening, cold touch up blue is often enough if you don't slip and scratch the slide.

[mitchjoe]

papashah41:

Don't do it/ have it done!!! :eek: ...Sorry, only my opinion. I haven't ever had a problem caused "by" the ejection port. Sounds like everything you have done so far is "drop-in", hence "drop-back-out". The grand you just dropped for the piece (and future value) would keep me from worrying about the maybe 10% of brass that takes a ding.

mitchjoe

[papashah41]

papashah41:

Don't do it/ have it done!!! :eek: ...Sorry, only my opinion. I haven't ever had a problem caused "by" the ejection port. Sounds like everything you have done so far is "drop-in", hence "drop-back-out". The grand you just dropped for the piece (and future value) would keep me from worrying about the maybe 10% of brass that takes a ding.

mitchjoe

Yeap.....pretty much my thinking. Any mods I do must meet two criteria. One.....must be done for a spicific reason. The trigger swap, extended safety and beavertail (and hammer, by default) are all mods to improve my grip (I've got kind've large hands and shoot 1911's with a "high thumb" grip).
Second criteria.....if at all possable.....don't permanently "screw up" a $1000 pistol!!! :eek: And I'm all but convinced grinding my ejection port is an unnessesairy "me too" mod. (I'm also laying awake at night, pondering beveling my mag well. Permanent....but of more use than the ejection port "surgery").
Either way..........guess my ejection port will remain un-lowered/flared, even if in the 1911 world, it's the equivelant of wearing brown shoes with a tuxedo! :p

[stans]

(I'm also laying awake at night, pondering beveling my mag well.
Wilson Combat used to make, probably still do, a funneled mag well extension that had hooks that fit under or around the stock screw bushings on the frame. This would sure be a non-permanent solution if you don't mind the the bottom of the frame being about 1/3" longer.

[papashah41]

Wilson Combat used to make, probably still do, a funneled mag well extension that had hooks that fit under or around the stock screw bushings on the frame. This would sure be a non-permanent solution if you don't mind the the bottom of the frame being about 1/3" longer.

But wouldn't there still be a "step" where the funnel mates to the non-ground frame? :confused: All of the mag funnels I've seen still require you to "blend" them to the bottom of your frame.

[wichaka]

I've installed a few S&A mag wells that fit perfectly with the existing frame well. Not saying yours will, but there's a chance.

Might check them out..........

[papashah41]

I've installed a few S&A mag wells that fit perfectly with the existing frame well. Not saying yours will, but there's a chance.

Might check them out..........

Do the S&A mag wells require you to cut the bottom of your grips? I don't want to cut my current grips (they look so damn good now, I'd have a heart attack if my Dremel slipped! :p ).