View Full Version : Teflon/Moly finishing
frankgh22
23rd February 2005, 20:18
Anyone have thoughts or experience with a product like Brownells Teflon/moly bake-on? Durable or not? Better products out there?
clare44man
24th February 2005, 15:34
I don't know about the Brownell's product but I have had two small frame revolvers that were finished in 'teflon'. It was a soft finish and wore very quickly. I would rather have one of the 'gun coat' type epoxy finishes. 44 Man
vesmcd
24th February 2005, 15:58
I,ve done 4 frames(3 steel, 1 alloy) with Brownell's teflon/molly spray on finish.
Two are mine and the other two belong to friends.They have been in use for over a year with no signs of wear.
The t/m does not seem to adhere well to polished surfaces, so I degrease,fine bead blast and degrease again. Then I apply and bake as per directions on the spray can.
I have an old Intra-Tec Tec-25 I am going to try it on next just to see how it comes out.
mitchjoe
24th February 2005, 20:47
frankgh22:
I've used a decent quantity of Gun Kote, and think the stuff is great. The only caveats are:
>Absolutely follow the directions...clean w/ laquer thinner, no more than two light coats, the baking temp. & time, etc.
>I would invest in a fairly decent airbrush and order the liquid as opposed to aerosol. The aerosol cans work well, but it's a little tough to control the "thickness" and eveness of the coats.
>Unless you can get the material really thin & even, avoid the area of the grip safety that fits in the tangs, and the area of the hammer that fits in the frame. Also the pins.
Beyond that, the stuff is extremely durable, looks good and really is somewhat "self-lubricating". I've heard of some of their other products being touchy about some of the stronger solvents, but I have not found that to be the case with Gun Kote.
BTW, if the gun is parkerized, you don't need to strip the park before applying the product, just make sure the surface is even.
I'm attaching a pic of what started out as a Mil-Spec SA Champion. I used the Olive Drab and Brown. I've since sold the piece, but the stuff held up great. I'm really interested in checking out the "Brite Gunmetal Blue" color!
mitchjoe
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v733/mitchjoe/leftdone.jpg
TMII
26th February 2005, 15:24
I have a friend who refinishes all of his rifles, pistols and shotguns with Brownell's Aluma-Hyde II and not only are the guns fantastic to look at, the finish seems to be as durable as any of the commercial coatings available. He saves a lot of money and can do his guns on his own time-frame - no waiting and no shipping costs.
Byrd
4th March 2005, 19:23
I have done two Star BM's, and 2 1911's in Gun Kote, and I must agree to follw the directions! Tha guns must be cleaned properly for it to adhere properly. They all look new and the finish is very durable. I had them sandblasted and then used Brownell's parkerizing as a base coat before applying the Gun Kote. I am presently working on a SA Champion that will get the same finish when I am done.
I did a Ballester Molina in Aluma Hyde II just to see how it would hold up, and am very ahppy with it. I have almost 1,000 rounds through it with no signs of wear, but it is a range gun and does not ride in a holster...
That being said, I just built my first AK, and for the finish on that I used spray paint...go figure! It looks original, and holds up well, so far!
Mustang
4th March 2005, 20:37
My Springer was DuraCoated (flat black & O.D. green) by a local gun shop and I'm very pleased with the finish. $125.00 OTD & guaranteed. Just another thought.
Jim Clark
5th March 2005, 04:11
Hi Guys - Howareyou?Iamfine.
I've done a meltdown treatment on my SA Ultra Compact, no problem.
I also did the same treatment on the Novak Night Signts. Now I need to put a good finish on the whole pistol & I can't get the tritium hot.
Does anyone know of a good cold :confused: finish I can use?
Thanks - jim
mitchjoe
5th March 2005, 12:24
Jim Clark:
Tap the sights out with a nylon or brass punch & hit them with a good cold blue.
If your comfortable detail stripping a 1911, the oven-cure finishes are the way to go.
mitchjoe
dep2386
6th March 2005, 11:29
I sent my Springfield Loaded 1911 to Bear coat for a teflon finish. I had to send it back. I was very dissatisfied with their work. I finally had it stripped off by a local gunsmith. I bought a Springfield Pro-Model with the Birdsong Black T finish. As I carry the Pro-Model as my duty weapon on a motorcycle. It receives a lot of abuse. It seems to hold up very well but there are several scratches visible on the slide. I have heard good things about Robar gun finishes and Wilson Armor Tuff. Robar offers a lifetime guarantee on their work.
frankgh22
8th March 2005, 17:02
Thanks again for all the replys. I did a little research and found some gun coaters actually use a amer-lene or parkerize then use the bake on.
Han Erickson
27th March 2005, 15:03
Can one use these bake on products with a stainless gun?
mitchjoe
27th March 2005, 19:56
Han Erickson:
Yes, though the same advice to follow the directions explicitly still applies. Since Gun-Kote bonds to "itself" and adheres to the surface it's applied to, whether the metal is ferrous or non-ferrous matters not.
mitchjoe
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