Beavertail Grip Safety Installation

[KY1911]

As a frequent reader of these and other 1911 boards, I’m a little confused as to the installation and “fitting” of a grip safety.

I have a Kimber Custom II in matte black on which I would like to change all external controls to stainless. The radius of the frame is already .250. Every installation thread or page refers to jigs and plates, but these seem to be used to bring your frame to a .250 radius. Shouldn’t a .250 radius grip safety reasonably fit a .250 radius pistol? Other than maybe a little tweaking on the grip safety arm, what “fitting” should I expect? Is there a particular brand of grip safety that would work better for me, in this instance?

This gun is already “custom” – at least beyond a build-up from a standard 1911 frame, so it strikes me (maybe mistakenly) that a grip safety with the same radius should fit without too much trouble. I’m mechanically inclined, but have never worked on my 1911 and may need to just send it to a local gunsmith.

Thanks in advance for your patience and advice.

[Bullauge]

If your frame already has a .250 radius then any beavertail safety designed for a .250 should work. Depending on which safety you get, there will be some minor fitting necessary to get the contours of the grip safety to match the contours of the frame.

[garrettwc]

KY1911, the radius is one of three points that need minor fitting. If you already have the right radius, then little or no fitting is needed in that area.

The other two areas are the radius where the safety fits to the plunger, and where the safety contacts the sear. The safeties are usually slightly oversize in this area to allow you to precisely match it to your gun.

[auto45]

Different beavertails even with the same 250 radius, are quite different in how they fit.

The Ed Brown is a very high grip model that requires a lot more frame metal removal than a Smith & Alexander, much lower/thicker. You remove the frame metal, on an EB for example, to match the beavertail contours, otherwise you'll have frame parts sticking out above the beavertail. That's not the case with the S&A. But you may need some, just depends how it feels or looks to you.

If it were mine, I'd call Kimber and see if they sell a stainless beavertail. That would be your easiest and best fit, without using the dremel IMO. Plus, yours is a series II so it has an additional "function". I'm not sure whether you need the series 70 or 80 when buying a non-Kimber beavertail.

Also, Kimber uses a lot of stainless parts and "blackens" them. They don't tell you that if you think you bought a "blued" carbon steel gun. I'd ask them whether your "external" parts are stainless. Maybe you just have to use some sandpaper. :)

Just some thoughts.