Beavertail Grip Safety install problems

[JasoninAZ]

Hello,

I'm new here and relatively new to the 1911. I've been trying to install a Wilson drop in beavertail but I keep running into problems. When I am reinstalling the thumb safety if it is not pushed in all the way the grip safety works as it should but when I have the thumb safety pushed in all the way the grip safety stops any trigger movement. The thumb safety has a noticeable click when engaged or disengaged but either it or the grip safety is stopping all movement in the trigger. Everything about the new grip safety is the same as the old one except the width of the arm. I'm in need of some help on this, and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for your help,

Jason

[Joni Lynn]

What brand of gun did you install in on?

[JasoninAZ]

Brand new Rock Island... I think maybe the thumb safety puts too much pressure on the arm of the grip safety. Or maybe the pin diameter is too big for the hole in the new grip safety.

Jason

[Joni Lynn]

Maybe Tuner will jump in........I have no clue. sorry.

[JasoninAZ]

Thanks for your help anyway. I really don't have a clue what it could be but I'll break out the dial micrometer tomorrow and get exact dimensions of everything.

Thanks,

Jason

[Jim Bellino]

Jason,
Check your PM's.

[JasoninAZ]

Reply sent, don't know if it matters but the thumb safety is a ambi model and the I'm using the stock spur hammer which has been cut down for use with the beavertail ( I couldn't figure out how to remove the hammer strut from the stock hammer).

Thanks for your help,

Jason

[David Rose]

Jason,

Tuner isn't showing up at the moment so I'll give you a thing to check. I am not a great instructor, but I understand the situation, so I will give it a try.

"Drop in" safeties really aren't drop in. The may go into the gun OK, but they still normally need fitting.

The two safeties are independent of each other. The thumb safety blocks the sear and the grip safety blocks the trigger. The pin on the thumb safety *does* hold the grip safety, but that is about they have in common.

Do both safeties work freely? If the grip safety moves full swing in and out it probably just needs the engagement leg fitted to the trigger bow. If it binds when squeezed down, there is another step. There are very likely diagrams on this site showing that fitting, but I am new here, so...

If nothing is binding, other than the grip safety blocking the trigger, then you probably just need to fit it to the trigger. Notice the leg of the grip safety that points toward the front of the gun as in normal position. It has a step that is about 1/2 the height of that leg. "Leg" is probably a very incorrect term, but bear with me. As you squeeze the safety in, the upper (longest) part of that leg moves upward. It should move far enough to clear the trigger bow. It probably does not. If it does not, you need to trim a bit off the bottom of that upper/longer piece. The trigger bow should move just below it to do its job. Then when you release the safety, the longer/upper part comes into play to block the bow.

You do not want the trigger to drag on that upper safety part when you release it (trigger). The trigger should move freely and cleanly without touching that leg when the safetly is held in. Depending on when you want the safety to "lose function" determines how much you take off that leg. The more you take off, the sooner the safety will release the trigger.

Try to take an even amount off the leg from the exposed end back to the uncut portion. In other words, it is easier to keep it parallel to the original shape. A fine cut file will do a good job. Cut a couple of strokes then try it. Depending on the frame cuts on the RI, you may be able to see what is happening with the grips off. Just look for the safety leg and the right side of the trigger bow.

Tuner may be able to give you clearer instructions.

David

[John]

A quick one, I'll come back later for more. Reassemble the pistol, but without the sear and disconnector in. Then use the thumb safety to keep the grip safety on the pistol, but insert it from the right side of the frame (of course its lug will not go inside the frame, let it swing above the grip safety or below it). In that way, the thumb safety opening on the left side of the frame will be left open and you can look inside to see what's happening.

More later.

[jeff1124]

David Rose is probably correct, I had to make the adjustment he describes to get a Wilson drop-in safety to work. Take a look at the STI animation on how a 1911 works and pay attention to the safety's duties. What John said to do will help you see the function of the grip safety by installing the thumb safety from the other side, You may have to use the oem thumb safety, in place of the ambi though.

[JasoninAZ]

I'lll have time to mess with it later today, I'll let you all know if that cures it.

Thanks,

Jason

[Lance1955]

Jason,

I too had the same problem as you did. I ordered a wilson beavertail drop in for my Rock GI. As well as a new hammer and sear. Ivan, recomended as others have to change the hammer. The problem is that the New grip saftey is hitting the two points on the frame of the Rock. And you will be able to get saftey control with the pin about a tweek in and the grip saftey will work as it should. But it wont go all the way in. I found that on mine the New wilson beavertail where the two point come off of the frame are hitting the grip saftey. I careful with a hand file, filed each side on the wilson grip saftey, till the pin would go all the way in and function was normal. Then per, the directions in new beavertail grip saftey, filed down the peice that sticks out from the under side of the beavertail. Paying attention to the angle that it was at. It took about an 1.5 hours of fidigeting to get it right. I still have the sock saftey engagement selector that came with the pistol. And it works fine.

[Bullauge]

Using a jig to file the rear frame tangs to the appropriate contour is the best way to go. Each manufacturer usually has a jig one can purchase when installing their beavertail safeties.

I've performed that same procedure that David Rose suggested when I installed a Smith & Alexander beavertail safety on my Springfield Mil-Spec. Using a fine flat file on the safety leg did the trick. The key is to remove a little metal at a time.

[JasoninAZ]

Well I picked up the Ed Brown jig and a STI beavertail. Also picked up a new hammer strut and pin for the new hammer. I'll be installing the whole shebang this weekend. I'll let you all know how it goes.

Take care,

Jason