How does one replace an external extractor?

[DanC]

Hello. I have a Sig GSR which had some issues with 3-point jams in the past, but now runs great since the barrel link was replaced (thanks 1911Tuner). Last week, the hook on my external extractor broke. I called Sig, and they are sending me a new one gratis. I've never had to do much more than clean my guns and replace a few springs here and there. Would someone, please, give my some instruction on how to replace the external extractor? Do I need to "tune" it when I replace it, and what exactly does that mean/involve? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Iron bottom]

I'm not quite sure, but I an thinking the extractor pivots on a drive pin or a roll pin ala CZ. If not, disregard. This pin will be installed vertically in the slide and should be located so it leaves no doubt that it is holding the extractor. Look on your parts breakdown page in the manual. The manual will show the pin and if the pin is shown above the slide with a dotted line from the pin to the drilling in the slide, I would drive it up from the bottom with a hammer and punch. If shown from the bottom, I would drive the pin down from the top. Some are directional, so be sure before pounding anything. You normally only have to drive out the pin until the extractor is free. The extractor is spring loaded, so keep a finger over it.

To replace, use the punch as a slave pin to position the extractor and spring in place until the pin is driven far enough into the extractor to prevent it from launching into the wild blue yonder. Set the pin to it's original position with the punch.

I like a heavy, no bounce or AKA non rebounding, hammer for driving pins. Two pounds is about right. Beating on drive pins with a light hammer and not moving them will mushroom them and they really tighten up. You could also check the gunsmithing section at SIG Forums and ask this question over there.

[Colt45guy]

I've got a GSR also, and had my extractor out for some troubleshooting. Punch the pin out from the top--use a punch that fits as closely as possible. (I don't recall the size)

Installing is simply the reverse--whack it in from the bottom. Be sure to seat it deep enough to ensure it clears the frame rails. I used the same punch to line up the extractor in place while starting the pin.

You don't want to remove/install this part often, or you'll open up the hole and you'll have the pin falling out under recoil.


it's an easy operation....shouldn't take you more than a few minutes if you have the right tools.

[DanC]

Thank you, both. Now I just have to call Sig, since it's been 5 days, and still no part.

[DanC]

Well, I finally got the extractor from Sig after 2 weeks and 3 phone calls. It's funny, you would think, after having the gun twice last year, and asking for the serial number this time, they would know the gun was stainless, not blued. Anyway, I decided to go ahead and put the blued extractor in so as not to loose any more time with the gun being out of commission.

I got the proper size punch and a dead blow hammer. How hard is it to drive out the retaining pin? Advice both here and on the Sig forum was to drive the pin from the top, which is what I'm trying, but the darn thing won't budge.

Is there something I'm missing? Was I supposed to remove some other part before attempting to drive out the pin. Before you all ask the obvious, I did unload and field strip the gun, so I'm just working with the slide. I am dim, but not completely stupid. Help would be appreciated.