Smith & Alexander Grip Safety Issues

[Bullauge]

I recently installed a Smith & Alexander Grip Safety on my stainless Springfield Mil-Spec and I have a few minor questions and one major issue. So, here it goes...

The major issue is... after reassembly, I wanted to test the grips safety to make sure everything was working fine. Well, when I pull the trigger the hammer falls without pushing on the grip safety. So, basically, it's operating as though the grip safety has been disabled. I took it apart and looked it over, but I'll be darned if I can figure out what I did wrong. What would cause this so I can correct it?

The other questions I have are cosmetically related. I decided to be a brave (stupid?) soul and do some grinding on my frame to get the Smith & Alexander grip safety to fit. It fits fine, but now there is an ugly gap. (See photo.) What I'm wondering is, is it safe to grind down the area for the high grip to bring all the contours together or is this a job for a gunsmith to add some metal to get it to look proper? Thanks!

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/mjgericke/DSC_0949B.jpg

[garrettwc]

Bullauge when you ordered the grip safety did you specify that it was for a Springfield frame? The Sprinfield's have a very different radius on the grip tangs than other guns.

It may just be the way the light and shadow in th pics look, but it looks like the radius is wrong on that safety in the area you have marked for grinding.

[kel]

You are in the same sad position I am. I gave my gun to a Smith and asked him to take the bite out of a GI safety I had fitted to a S&W 1911. He took material off the frame in addition to the GI safety so I couldn't go back to the beavertail without the same gap :-( You can have material added to the frame but it is very expensive, almost as much as a new frame! The only savings is that you don't have to refit parts like you would with a new frame.

[Bullauge]

Yeah, the grip safety is for the .220. I used the jig to file down the tangs and THAT part of the fit is just fine. It's just the ugly gaps that are the issue at hand. :o I'm not opposed to doing some filing on the safety to make it work, but I don't want to make it worse either.

~ Matt

[RickB]

I've never seen a gun that required reducing the safety to get it to match the frame? Usually the frame protrudes in various places, and must be reduced to blend with the safety.
The part of the safety that is supposed to block trigger movement is apparently too short. You should be able to look in through the various openings in the frame, and watch the movement of the safety relative to the trigger. If the safety is too short, it can be stretched a but via peening the end, then filing it back to fit.

[garrettwc]

RickB, that's the same thing I was seeing, and the reason I thought it might be the wrong safety. Bullauge, take a look at this tutorial from Blindhogg Custom. It's a Wilson safety but the pictures are close enough. This is how things should look at various stages:

http://www.blindhogg.com/gunsmith/wilsonbt.html

And this picture in particluar is what Rick and I were referring to. Notice how the frame is sticking out farther.
http://www.blindhogg.com/pics/wilsonbt6.jpg

[Bullauge]

I understand what you're saying. I'll take a better picture of what I've got to contend with and post it later. It sounds like it might be in my best interest to get a different grip safety. However, I'm confused as to which one I'd need. Does Wilson make a BT with a .220 radius for Springer GI & Mil-Specs?

[Iron bottom]

I know that one company makes a beavertail grip safety for the GI issue frame, but it does not require the tangs to be modified. I would go ahead and blend the safety to the frame. May be the only option at this point.

[John]

The major issue is... after reassembly, I wanted to test the grips safety to make sure everything was working fine. Well, when I pull the trigger the hammer falls without pushing on the grip safety. So, basically, it's operating as though the grip safety has been disabled. I took it apart and looked it over, but I'll be darned if I can figure out what I did wrong. What would cause this so I can correct it?

Concerning your inoperative safety issue, remove the thumb safety, the hammer, the sear and the disconnector from your pistol. Then reassemble it with the grip safety in its proper position but insert the thumb safety from the right side of the frame, so you can leave the thumb safety opening visible for you to peek in. Put the sear spring in and the mainspring housing in place. Now look inside the opening and check if the tongue of the grip safety, when not pressed, is coming down behind the trigger bow. If it is not, something is not letting the grip safety come as far out as it should. Probably you have to file the two ledges at the lower edge of the grip safety and the corresponding ones on the top of the main spring housing for the tongue to fall behind the trigger bow.

If the grip safety tongue is behind the trigger bow, but the trigger can still be pressed then your safety's tongue is not correct.

Let me know and we'll take it from there.

[sevenL4]

I have only installed a few beavertails, 20 or so. Depending on the frame and safety combination , sometimes the safety needs more contouring than the frame, sometimes the other way around. I am currently installing a Wilson on a frame that had first been cut for Ed Brown safety. It looked similar to your picture but with less frame in the contour area. I felt as though I had ground 5 pounds off the safety before it was blended to the frame but it's looking pretty good now. Good luck.

[garrettwc]

Here is a link to an article by John Harrison of Harrison Custom regarding the various tangs and beavertails.

http://www.harrisoncustom.com/TextDesc/Beavertail.htm

[Bullauge]

I did some work on the grip safety last night and I got it to blend relatively well. It's not pretty, but it at least, somewhat, looks like it belongs on the pistol. Here's a picture of where I'm at with it so far.

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y87/mjgericke/DSC_0978.jpg

Now I'm wondering... the back strap has a dulled finish. Sand/glass blasted? I imagine if I want to restore the finish I'd have to take it to a gunsmith. What other options are available that I might be able to do myself?

I also found out what the problem was with the being able to pull the trigger without engaging the grip safety. It's a bad trigger. The loop has too much slop in the grooves and it doesn't reach the upper..tongue of the grip safety. I put the original short trigger back in and tested it and everything functions properly. Whew, at least I was able to figure that one out. :)

~ Matt

[garrettwc]

There you go Bullauge, much better fit than in the first pics. Sounds like you got the function problem worked out too. That's half the fun when tinkering with 1911s. The learning.

[Icepick15]

Bullauge,
Scotchbrite 7447 will dull the finish of your grip safety. It's available in sheet form at auto parts stores. It will dull down the finish of your grip safety, but, I don't know if it will exactly match your frame. Be aware that it is an abrasive.