Want to try IDPA with my milspec

[Zydeco76]

I have springfiled 1911-A1 milspec. I was looking for an inexpensive 1911. I had to polish the feed ramp but since it has run like a clock. I also use McCormick mags. Now I am very interested in IDPA. I need to know what I should do to make my pistol IDPA legal and not lessen its value as a defencive pistol. I am also interested in a beaver tail saftey but have no idea what brand to get. I would also like a lighter trigger pull but not too light. About 3.5 lbs. Some pointers in the right direction would be great.

[John]

If the pistol does not pinch the web of your hand between the index and the thumb fingers, you don't need a beavertail. You are one of the lucky ones. As for the trigger, I wouldn't touch a 1911 with a trigger less that 4-4.5 lbs.

Finally, is memory serves me right, your pistols is already IDPA compatible, but I'll let shooters more familiar than me on this subject answer that. We do not have IDPA here.

Rgds

[wichaka]

Welcome to the forum Zydeco76!

If you decide on a beavertail for your Mil-Spec, the only thats made for it is the Smith&Alexander as it matches the radius of the frame tangs at .220"
You'll have to change the hammer, as the spur type won't work with a beavertail.

I have a Loaded & a Colt (both are duty guns) and I shoot IDPA & USPSA with them. I prefer stock guns, they are closer to what a person would carry and would have on hand should something go wrong. Best to practice and play with what you carry, it gets a person extremely familiar with their gun under many conditions.

Try to stay away from anything under 4 1/2lbs on a trigger pull. Just a bit more margin of safety should your finger slip.
I prefer mine at 4 3/4, if done right, they'll feel like 3lbs..........only the scale will tell.

Happy shooting........

[Harlie]

And join the fun and comradery. Bring at least three mag's, more if available. Suitable holster and mag pouches for at least two mag's on belt. 100 rounds ammo. Let some one know if this is your first experience w/ IDPA and you will recieve a helping hand. You will also find out about Murphy, if your equipment isn't well tested. But that's why some of us shoot IDPA for the skills, stress introduction, and shake out of problems. If you plan on using your 1911 as a carry piece, no better place to learn. First trip out, don't get caught up in the speed, concentrate on getting good hits and doing scenerio as discribed, speed will follow later. A 1 1/2" or 1 3/4" belt or sturdy at minimum, helps secure holster for draws.

[Zydeco76]

Thanks for the advice guys. I was concerned about the pistol not having a safety for left hand shooting. If this is not a requirement then so be it. This is a carry pistol. I really don't want to change much on it. The pistol does not pinch but it starts hurting at around 75 rounds and my aim suffers at that point. I have the holster, 2mag carrier, and the ammo. I even have a good stiff belt so I think I am ready. I do not expect any hangups as I shoot this pistol ALOT. 4 days a week atleast I am shooting this or my rifle. I will reconsider the trigger as it seems like excellent advice to leave it a little heavy. Now I just need to find out where and when the next match is on or near the MS gulf coast.

[wichaka]

If you start getting sore because of the grip safety, you may want to get a drop-in-style for now. You'll notice a big difference and shoot all day long in comfort.

[Zydeco76]

Is the drop in S&A saftey something that I could do or is it a gunsmith job. I have never done more than field strip my 1911.

[jester_s1]

The S&A is a gunsmith fit item. Pachmayer sp? used to make a drop in beavertail that didn't require any modifications to the frame. The reason that most beavertails are not drop in is because most are designed to make the gun sit lower in the hand, thus improving recoil control. Different manufacturers have slightly different shapes to the safety and amounts of drop to suit different tastes. If you're happy with the way the gun fits your hand now, a drop in beavertail would be the way to go.
You might also consider dehorning your gun before investing in a beavertail. If there is a spot that is digging into your hand, you can just round it off and fix the problem without altering your gun at all.

[Billboy45]

I find the discussion of trigger pull weight to be interesting. Some of the big name shooters in the pistol games run very light triggers, some are even under 1 lb in weight. Cooper seemed to be of the opinion that some where around 3 lb was about right, while the current crop of magazine writers seems to feel that the trigger should be 4 to 5 lb to survive in court. When one looks at the 7 lb triggers that Jerry Miculek runs on his revolvers it is obviously that it is possible to shoot well and quickly with a trigger that is heavier then 5 lb. In fact I dare say there are probably not many shooters on this board who can do as well as Jerry even if we used a 1911 with a light trigger! So if the question is not the pull weight of the trigger then maybe the key is the smoothness of the trigger. I know from my experience that I shoot a lot better with a gun that has a smooth, clean trigger. Yet a friend of mine had the opportunity to dry fire the Glock 34 of David Sevigny a couple years back and he reported that David’s trigger was all stock… in fact he said it was not even a good stock Glock trigger. Yet David smokes with that thing. I fear that the real trick is not trigger pull weight or the smoothness of the trigger. The real key is practice… and lots of it.