Is it possible to adjust the reset on the GSR?

[raytracer]

The only thing I'm having an issue with on my GSR is the long reset.

Not having had an adjustable trigger on a 1911 before - is it possible to shorten the reset with the trigger adjustment?

It's definitely not covered in the manual.

Joe

[John]

What you mean the trigger reset?

Do this: Cock the hammer of your gun and release it with the trigger, but be very careful to stop pulling the trigger right after the hammer falls. Then press the trigger some more. If you have more than 2 mm of travel after the hammer falls, you can use the overtravel screw on the trigger to reduce it. I wouldn't try eliminating the overtravel, since you may end up with a gun that won't fire. Also, you need to have some overtravel, after the sear breaks, or else your finger will be putting pressure on the frame of the gun (via the trigger, trigger screw and magazine release) while the bullet is still traveling inside the barrel.

[raytracer]

My problem is with the length of reset - how far the trigger has to travel forward to re-engage the sear after the slide has cycled. It is so long on this gun that when shooting double taps, I've found myself squeezing an inert trigger.

That's want I want to see if it's possible to adjust.

Thanks,
Joe

[John]

It looks as if you have a lot of overtravel. Do the test above and let me know of your findings.

[Nitrox]

Adjusting the over-travel correctly was a big step in the right direction for my gun. As far as I can tell the over-travel was not adjusted at all when the gun was assembled. This also cured the FPS arm dragging on the slide.

Pre-Travel can be adjusted by bending the small tabs out on the bow.

[raytracer]

Dadrattit! I can't come up with an allen wrench that fits that. I can't see into the hole, so I'm just poking various sizes in there till something fits. All very scientific.

I'll hit the hardware store this afternoon and get a giant box of tiny allen wrenches - unless someone knows the correct size offhand? - and I'll post back how it works.

Thanks!

Joe

[raytracer]

Stand back... here comes The Hammer!

I'll have to wait till I go to the range tomorrow to make sure, but that seems to have fixed it up. I should have plenty of opportunity to work on double-taps tomorrow night!

Thanks, John and Nitrox!

Joe

[John]

Another happy customer!

Just make sure there is some overtravel after the sear breaks from the hammer hooks. 1-2 mm is what I like.

[Nitrox]

Another happy customer!

Just make sure there is some overtravel after the sear breaks from the hammer hooks. 1-2 mm is what I like.

I adjust it based on feel. You can tell when the sear isn't clearing the half cock notch so I simply turn the screw out until the sear clears and their is no snags.

[John]

Most gunsmiths will tell you that you have to have some overtravel, after the sear breaks. The reason being that if there is none, as your finger is still applying pressure on the trigger after the sear breaks, you are in reality applying pressure to the frame, through the trigger and the magazine catch, on which the adjustment screw stops the trigger. Since this happens immediately after the sear breaks, the bullet is still in the barrel, so any pressure applied on the frame can alter your point of impact. A little overtravel lets you delay hitting the frame until the bullet is gone.