Copper on feed ramp

[lazlong]

I noticed that the JHP rounds feed more consistently when there is copper built up on the feed ramp, and that they tend to jam on it immediately after I clean it.

I believe that, ultimately, the answer to the feeding problem is to get JHP ammo with a smaller cavity and a more rounded profile, or to just carry the pistol with hardball ammo.

I just found it interesting that the copper seems to be a feeding aid.

[1911Tuner]

I just found it interesting that the copper seems to be a feeding aid.

Probably because it works to fill in the machining marks and provide a smoother surface for the bullet noses to move upward on. In your case, a little light polishing of the ramp would probably help. Use 320-grit paper on a fingertip for a few seconds...followed by 400-grit. Keep it light, and don't try to completely remove the marks. Just knock the high spots off.

Oh yeah...Don't round off the corner at the top of the frame ramp.
Leave it alone.

[lazlong]

Thanks for the advice, Johnny. I've been reading your articles, and didn't want to smooth the feed ramp because I was afraid of losing the controlled feed. I'll lightly touch it up without removing the marks.

I know a lot of people polish these things to death (literally), and I don't want to make that mistake.

BTW, I've ordered the EGW Firing Pin Stop that you suggested in an article. I look forward to receiving and installing it.

Thanks again! :)

Edit: I just finished the job, and it works beautifully. I can't tell the difference in feed between the Hornady TAP rounds and the WWB FMJ ball rounds. Mierce Beaucoup!

[Tom]

Use 320-grit paper on a fingertip for a few seconds...followed by 400-grit.
That coarse of paper? Not start with 1000-grit?

[1911Tuner]

That coarse of paper? Not start with 1000-grit?

Because the goal is to break the sharp edges from the tool marks...not effect a mirror polish.

[Candiru]

So which number Dremel drum would that coarseness work out to?

:lh:

I actually used a Dremel yesterday, but in my defense there was a lot of material to be removed from an area where it was hard to apply a hand tool, and I used it sparingly.

To be vaguely topical, I always thought that finer-grit sandpaper was just a slower version of its coarser counterpart, so it's good to be educated in this regard.

[1911Tuner]

So which number Dremel drum would that coarseness work out to?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRGHHHH!!!!!!

[CherryRiver]

"AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRGHHHH!!!!!!"


Man, those ar-tistes are just so sensitive.
Bill

[lazlong]

I use my dremel for my Russian rifles. I wouldn't dream of using it on my 1911's. I wouldn't have touched the ramp with sandpaper if it hadn't been recommended by the Tuner himself!

[wichaka]

So which number Dremel drum would that coarseness work out to?
I actually used a Dremel yesterday, but in my defense there was a lot of material to be removed from an area where it was hard to apply a hand tool, and I used it sparingly.

To be vaguely topical, I always thought that finer-grit sandpaper was just a slower version of its coarser counterpart, so it's good to be educated in this regard.


Ouch! Oh My! I'm feeling a migraine coming on! :scared:

[wichaka]

That coarse of paper? Not start with 1000-grit?

Just don't ask John what he uses.
I never thought that emory cloth was made up in the 5 digit range! :D

[littledoc]

I use my dremel for my Russian rifles.

A 21oz ball peen hammer is a gunsmithing tool on some of those rifles. :D

[lazlong]

A 21oz ball peen hammer is a gunsmithing tool on some of those rifles. :D

Yes. But that's for the subtle adjustments. The dremel is for fine tuning. ;)

[John]

My old Colt has been treated with 600#, 800#, 1000#, 2000#, 4000# and 8000#.

Back then, I didn't know any better! :o