Adjusting triger take up

[Ericthenorse]

Since I have this thing all torn apart to put in the FPS and give it a bath, I might as well do a few more things...

What is the propper way to adjust the trigger take up/pre travel... I have a Kings adjustible trigger, and it does not have those nice little tabs on the front of the bow. I already have the overtravel thing down.

My first thought is to add two small "blobs" of weld at the front of the bow, and file them till it feels good. However, I know there must be a proper way to do it..... :D

[Lazarus]

Eric, is your trigger all metal? Don't try the welding thing with a plastic trigger...Actually if you can just touch the front of the bow with a tig torch, one on each side, I'm with you. In the past I've tried to bend the bow but I have never recovered a working trigger from it. Theoretically any change in the shape of the front of the bow will appear magically at the rear, and you'll have a whole new set of adjustments to make on the sear, hammer and safety. The trigger forming block (Brownells) has not really worked for me as I usually end up deforming the whole thing past recovery.

One possible method if you have the right tool would be to slice 2 very thin vertical slots about 1/2 way through the front of the bow. Do a pair of these cuts on either side of the trigger at the front. This would give you 2 tabs of metal that could be bent forward without disturbing the rest of the trigger bow.

A number of steel triggers are still available that do not have any takeup tabs and I wondered about this fact. Once in a while the takeup and overall trigger length are correct without adjustment, but that is the exception and not the rule. In any case, don't overdo the adjustment as a certain amount is needed for reliable resetting.

-Lazarus

[Ericthenorse]

It is an aluminum shoe stainless bow... I am planning to do this in conjunction with new sear, disconnector, hammer, and springs from EGW... I just wanted to make absolutely sure that I should be making adjustments to the trigger, and not to the rest of the parts before I get started...


This is the trigger...
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/ericthenorse/trigger2.jpg

And this is where I figure I could add a glob with the tig.. I guess I only have to do one side.....
http://i26.photobucket.com/albums/c132/ericthenorse/trigger.jpg

[Paratus]

I do this with a hacksaw. Cut two slots about 1/16the apart at the area you have circled then bend out the tab.
Works for me.

[John]

Or weld just one side, you do not have to weld both.

[RickB]

I've never used a trigger with the little tabs; what problem is being addressed? I've always used Videcki or Greider triggers, and the dimensions are compatible with my Colt, Caspian, and Springfield frames.

[Lubaloy]

It is imperative that one understand the relationship between 'pre-travel' and the half-cock notch before one adjusts the pre-travel.
I'll try to explain further as I find the time.

[swampertwo]

McCormick triggers and STIs have tabs on the front of the bow to accomplish what you're after.

[Ericthenorse]

First, I already have a trigger, why would I need another one..., and second, neither of those companies make a trigger for my pistol....(Gold Cup)

The whole thing ended up being a non issue anyway... After fitting all of my fancy new parts, I ended up with approximately 3/64ths, or .046 of pretravel... I am fine with that... Everything clears and resets real nice like, and I don't have to pull that much... The only thing I have to do now is wait for my trigger bow die and hammer slot stone to get here from Brownells, and I will be in business....

[Lubaloy]

As I started to say earlier, make sure you understand the mechanics involved.
With many hammers, some pre-travel is necessary to allow the sear to fully engage the half-cock notch or ledge.
Here is what I do:
First, rest the hammer on its half-cock.
Second, pull trigger lightly to the rear, taking up all pre-travel.
Third, use a pencil to make a thin line on the trigger shoe where it meets the frame.
Fourth, adjust the tabs maintaining full view of your pencil line.
Fifth, test the half-cock.
Be careful!
:D