Hard Chrome vs. NP3

[dogdollar]

Does anyone on here know anything about Robar's NP3 finish ? I am doing a "project gun" that I was going to have hard chromed, but wanted some input on this finish as well, or even better, the advantages (if any) of one over the other.
T.

[Rio Vista Slim]

Does anyone on here know anything about Robar's NP3 finish ? I am doing a "project gun" that I was going to have hard chromed, but wanted some input on this finish as well, or even better, the advantages (if any) of one over the other.
T.
Tim,
According to an article by Roy Huntington, in the March/April 2005 edition of American Handgunner , Robar's NP3 is a version of electroless nickel plating that introduces Teflon into the formula. While "electroless nickel is hard and corrosion-resistant, ....... with the Teflon added to it, is self-lubricating to boot."

I have no experience with Robar's NP3, but hopefully, one of our members' will chime in with some information.

[Joni Lynn]

I didn't know that about the NP3. I am still trying to work up my nerve to start my 'first' do it yourself 1911 project and was thinking hard chrome or a high polish blue. NP3 would be yet another great choice.

[dogdollar]

Joni/Slim,
I am doing a Python !!!
It's my turn on the Cylinder and Slide waiting list, I am doing a 6" nickel plated V series Python that has some nickel damage. Going for the ultimate action job, strip and refinish (NP3 or hard chrome), and maybe a weaver rail for an Eotech holographic sight. Already have custom Hogue cocobolo grips which took six months to get here. Should be very unusual, and very.......SWEEEEEET. :D
Tim

[Joni Lynn]

Sounds great...........I'll look forward to the pics and report.

[robot1911]

I've had a lot of 1911's done with an NP3 finish and it works great. Looks good, too. It's more rust proof than hard chrome because it's not nearly as poreous, but that's a fine line because it takes a lot to rust hard chrome. I can't comment on the lubricity of NP3 though because I've never tested it...always used FP10 on them.
I still prefer hard chrome because it's definitely a one-time finish and it wears really well. Most of my customers like the color of NP3 better, and so do I.
Each of these fnishes will add about .0002 to all surfaces, but hard chrome tends to clump a bit at corners and doesn't like things like pin holes...and the operator will have to use separate electrodes to plate the interior of frames and slides. You need to know what you're doing, like Virgil Tripp, for instance. And, it's best to completely fnish building the pistol prior to the HC because it'll kill a file...that's why the call it 'hard'.
I've never done or seen a home-done electroless nickle job but it's certainly possible. BTW, the teflon solution for the NP3 is expensive!!

Bob

[warmrain]

Tim,
According to an article by Roy Huntington, in the March/April 2005 edition of American Handgunner , Robar's NP3 is a version of electroless nickel plating that introduces Teflon into the formula. While "electroless nickel is hard and corrosion-resistant, ....... with the Teflon added to it, is self-lubricating to boot."

I have no experience with Robar's NP3, but hopefully, one of our members' will chime in with some information.
I think not Teflon but instead moly-disulphide. Now maybe that is the same thing w/o the trademark... I have some NP3 coated pieces and the are darn slick, actually hard to grasp the slide sometimes...

[Kruzr]

I think not Teflon but instead moly-disulphide. Now maybe that is the same thing w/o the trademark... I have some NP3 coated pieces and the are darn slick, actually hard to grasp the slide sometimes...
They are very different and provide lubrication via different mechanisms. They both provide a slick feeling surface and reduce the friction. Moly is good for up to 1300 deg. F (704 C for our non-Americans) and the teflon coatings are good to about 500 F (260 C). Either one is good for handgun applications.

[berkbw]

They are very different and provide lubrication via different mechanisms. They both provide a slick feeling surface and reduce the friction. Moly is good for up to 1300 deg. F (704 C for our non-Americans) and the teflon coatings are good to about 500 F (260 C). Either one is good for handgun applications.

Ummm - that's 1300' in an oxygen free atmosphere.

b-

[Kruzr]

Ummm - that's 1300' in an oxygen free atmosphere.

b-
True, sorry if anyone is confused ;). It doesn't begin to oxidize until about 550 F. in air. (oxidation does reduce the lubricity)