series 70 frame? with firing pin safty?

[CTtackdriver]

my colt i bought several years ago was sold at series 70 frame series 80 slide frame serial # 70L34185 now i got a series 70 slide ,,, but the frame has a firing pin safty. I removed it and the hammer doesnt always lock back now ( not fired with a live round!!!!) just racking the slide and also manually cocking the hammer. Should i remove the tip piece that lifts up to engauge the now non exsistant safty in the slide and re install the part for proper spacing ect? Somthing is definatly not right with it out. Tho it may have been in the assembly but I dont think so. What is the best way to delete this and use my new custom slide :confused: :confused:

[wichaka]

Yep, if you take out the firing pin safety on the slide, the corresponding parts in the frame have to come out as well..........or they'll be trouble, and lots of it.

[1911Tuner]

Steve, I think what he did was remove the frame levers without using a spacer to fill the gap. That'll cause problems.

Tackdriver...From the sounds of it, you bought a mix/match gun with a 70 or pre-70 slide on a Series 80 frame...and the genius mixmaster didn't realize that the levers had to be removed.
Caveat Emptor and all that. Good news is that a frame blank filler is 4 bucks and change from Brownells.

[CTtackdriver]

nnooo the old slide works fine and has the safty in it. the NEW slide has nothing I removed the plunger lever from the frame in hopes that it was all it took. But sadly i can now see that it is a spacer for the right side of the sear and hammer. http://www.okiegunsmithshop.com/Series_80.jpg part #30 is the one i removed because the tip on it was contacting the new series 70 style slide but now the hammer fails to engage every time. In a nut shell i need to make a series 80 frame ( told was a 70 and its serial nimber says 70) work with a series 70 slide.Im thinking if i cut the tip off that was used to engage the now non exsistant safty and hone it downit will still space over the hammer and the sear. Am i wrong in assuming this is the course of action? or do i use the filler u spoke of to fill the relieved area the plunger lever was once filling?

[1911Tuner]

AH! Okay...I see now.

You can grind the top lever down and get it to work, but it can't protrude above the frame at all with the trigger pulled full rearward. Otherwise, it can/probably will hit the solid pre-80 slide and block the trigger. Or...You can use the spacer from Brownells. I prefer the spacer mainly because I use my Series 80 guns for range beaters, and detail-strip'em so often, that they're easier and faster to reassemble with the spacer than with the levers.

The S70 prefix doesn't mean Series 70.

[CTtackdriver]

I intended on honing down the plunger ( removing the red area) the spacer may be a different option. I will check it out later tonight as im being yelled at by the woman to get my behind in the shower and take her out for drinks ect.

Excuse the horrible art skills
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-4/987275/plunger.JPG

[1911Tuner]

That's the spot...and the art looks pretty good from here. Just be sure that it doesn't stick up above the frame, and it'll work fine. The spacers are fairly soft, and the holes get wallowed out and flanged on mine about every 2,000 rounds. I have to hit'em with a hammer and file'em flush or they interfere with the sear reset. The levers are hard and won't give a problem. The spacers were actually never meant to leave in the guns full-time. Their original intent was so that triggersmiths wouldn't have to fiddle with the levers to check their progress, since they usually have the group in and out of the gun several times during the operation.

[John]

Just remove the top lever and leave the lower one in place. Or order the shim that Brownells sells and be done with it.

[wichaka]

Yep, I missed it.........read over it too fast.

Your art work is fine as well.......just take off the red part, and shoot well.

[CTtackdriver]

Thanks for the help guys!