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Dino
22nd September 2006, 13:16
I just recently replaced the trigger and hammer on my Springfield GI.

The parts fit well, and everything functions properly, however ...
When the grip safety and the trigger are pressed simultaiously, they "stick".

I took it back apart, took emery cloth to the trigger bow, lubed it up and made sure it moved back and forth smoothly in it's track, which it does. Re-assembled the pistol, and now it seems even worse! :butthead:

Someone on another forum suggested that I file down the arm on the grip safety, but I'm not sure what part of the arm I'm suppose to file, at what angle, and/or if that's even the problem.

Any suggestions? :confused:

wichaka
22nd September 2006, 15:50
If you look at your grip safety, there's an arm that protrudes from it.
When the grip safety is at rest, that arm keeps the trigger from moving.

If it's not fitted right, the trigger bow will drag on the under side of that arm.

So you may need to take some material off the bottom of the arm, but be careful.......if you take too much off, it won't work properly.

muscle
22nd September 2006, 16:27
One way to check for what wichaka is talking about is to remove your magazine an clear the weapon. cock the hammer back, and with the safety off, use one hand to apply pressure to the trigger without depressing the grip safety. with the other hand, slowly press down on the grip safety. If the grip safety has to completely bottom out on the frame before the hammer will drop, the arm will need to have a bit filed off.

Again be sure the weapon is cleared before dry firing it.

If you had your gun apart then you will be able to see where the material needs to be removed from the arm. With the mainspring housing off and sear spring removed, you can see how the grip safety rests against the rear of the trigger bow keeping it from moving until depressed. There is a notch in the arm of the grip safety that when depressed, allows the trigger to move rearward.

I added a wilson beavertail to my 1911 and this notch had to be filed down a bit. I also maintained the slight radius it had then polised engaginging surfaces of the arm with 600 grit paper.

hope this helps. ;)

LDM
22nd September 2006, 18:57
By coincidence had same problem today; Dino and I "spoke" on the other forum.

I filed the correct area TOO MUCH. Result: no rub, but grip saftey not working either. Please GO SLOW & CHECK OFTEN.

I tried peening, and eventually got things working (2 1/2 hours). But it is so buggered it is a weak link and I am just going to replace the grip safety.

Brownells is starting to recognize my voice and name when I call. Unfortunately my wife is starting to recognize Brownell packages and ask questions.

Good luck.

Rob1035
22nd September 2006, 19:37
Good to see another local "fixing" things :p

(I'm in Charlotte)

Hunter
22nd September 2006, 20:15
Seems the North Carolina population is growing on this forum.

1911Tuner
22nd September 2006, 21:29
The problem is very likely at the rear of the arm, right in the corner formed by the arm and the overtravel stop shoulder, or just a few thou ahead of it. Sometimes it's just a burr or sharp edge. There's rarely any need to file the arm all the way to the end, and even if you do, it shouldn't affect the function of the safety, unless there's a spec problem. The tip blocks the trigger, and it's set on a slight angle with an udercut on the bottom side. Sometimes the corner formed by that angle is where the trouble lies. Color the underside of the arm with a Sharpie marker and see where it's contacting.
Go slow...You can remove it a lot faster than you can put it back. Think...
File at the rear and stone at the front. Dress any sharp corners when you're done.

Dino
23rd September 2006, 03:00
I spent a little time with it tonight and you guys were right ... it was the arm on the grip safety. I filed it a little, polished it up, and was able to smooth it out. Thanks for all your help! :)

John
23rd September 2006, 04:15
To see what's going on inside the gun, remove your thumb safety and peek inside. The grip safety arm and the trigger should be visible. If you can't see well, you can also remove the hammer, sear and disco and then reassemble the rest but insert the thumb safety from the right side of the frame, just pass its shaft through so that it keeps the grip safety in place. You will see clearly the movement of the trigger and grip safety and figure out what's the problem.

LDM
23rd September 2006, 09:49
RE: 1911Tuner's comment- "The tip blocks the trigger, and it's set on a slight angle with an undercut on the bottom side."
This "tip" is where I screwed up.
Had minor rub on bottom of arm; had bright idea a small radius on above referenced "tip" would help smooth & ease things.
Result: grip safety did not work; peened it but beyond repair and will be replaced...by gunsmith
Lesson learned: If a part is shaped a certain way, there's a reason. Filing/stoning a bit of relief is one thing; re-shaping another.
Thanks to wichaka, muscle, 1911Tuner, & John.

PS-Any gunsmith recommendations in Charlotte, NC area?

1911Tuner
23rd September 2006, 10:11
Thanks to wichaka, muscle, 1911Tuner, & John.

PS-Any gunsmith recommendations in Charlotte, NC area?


Mighty welcome. We do what we can.

Depends on what you want done. Tommy Abernathy in Mt. Holly is about as good as they come, but he's been focusing on raceguns lately. He does fine custom work, but sometimes the wait can be long.

Kapp Ogburn, near Raleigh, is another good one for custom work. I hear that his waiting list ebbs and flows. Don't know the man personally, but others who do speak highly of him, both as a smith and as a man. Have seen a couple examples of his work, and he gets the thumbs up from me based on that.

For straight, no-frills reliabiility work...I can help. Not licensed any more, so I can't actually engage in the business...but I can do a few tweaks as a favor provided you BYOParts, don't offer me money, bring the gun to me...and take it with you when you leave. By and large, most functional/reliability issues can be corrected in less than two hours. I don't do 3-pound trigger jobs. Can do, but don't. Tightening and refitting the slide to frame, and/or installing a fitted barrel can take anywhere from
four hours to all dadgum day...so if that's your bug, come prepared to stay and down copious amounts of turbocoffee. On the upside, you have the good fortune to keep company with a few of the finest Collies that ever sucked air.

muscle
23rd September 2006, 13:28
Tuner, could you please move to Arizona? thanks.. :D

1911Tuner
23rd September 2006, 15:33
Tuner, could you please move to Arizona? thanks.. :D


Sorry....Can't take the heat. Come Cinco de Mayo every year, I start chantin':

"Come on October! Come on October!"

:D

Herb Clark
23rd September 2006, 20:22
+1 on T. A. in Mt. Holly - I haven't personally seen him but other good 1911 shooters in our IDPA club speak highly of his work - work :) looks good too!