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patrickoneal
2nd August 2006, 08:34
I'm about to reload for the first time, I wanted to make sure that the load I want to try is safe. This is for 45 ACP. I have 200 gr SWC bullets from masterblasters, plan to charge with 4.4 grains of WST and use a WLP primer. From the data on the winchester powder site, this looks safe, but they specify a federal primer instead of a winchester. Will the use of the WLP primers make a difference?

Thanks,

Patrick

Baldy
2nd August 2006, 09:35
Pat you will have no problem with the difference in primers. I use WLP's in all my 45 loads. I just checked and you are at the bottom of the WST load at 4.4grs of powder. Just remember to stay with in the limits set of high and low and enjoy your new hobby.

RONNIEJ
2nd August 2006, 09:53
Watch your OAL and after loading the first 6 rounds or so--wipe them down good and see how well they load into your magazine--simple but can save you heart break-- ;)

RJ

patrickoneal
2nd August 2006, 10:25
Is this a good starting point, or should I start off with more powder? Will my gun have trouble cycling with this light of a load?

With regard to OAL, the people at master blasters said:

"Whenever you shoot a bullet that has a shoulder, just start by setting the bullet deep enough so that you see just a little of shoulder above the the brass. About a fingernails thickness, apply a good crimp and see if it works in your gear. If it doesn't, just lengthen it slowly until it works in the gun and mags."

That all makes sense, but what is a good crimp? I have a set of calipers so I suppose I could measure it if I knew what range to look for.

RONNIEJ
2nd August 2006, 10:37
Is this a good starting point, or should I start off with more powder? Will my gun have trouble cycling with this light of a load?

With regard to OAL, the people at master blasters said:

"Whenever you shoot a bullet that has a shoulder, just start by setting the bullet deep enough so that you see just a little of shoulder above the the brass. About a fingernails thickness, apply a good crimp and see if it works in your gear. If it doesn't, just lengthen it slowly until it works in the gun and mags."

That all makes sense, but what is a good crimp? I have a set of calipers so I suppose I could measure it if I knew what range to look for.

Good advise on the SWC, I use the Masterblaster in the 185 and 200 g SWC--Rest depends on your mags and gun--load just enough to run tests till you get what you want.

Enjoy
RJ

Woodman
2nd August 2006, 12:56
Many .45ACP guns like a taper crimp of around .469 to .472"

patrickoneal
8th August 2006, 10:23
Where on the case do I measure the crimp with my calipers? I'm using a Lee Factory Crimp Die.

ambidextrous1
8th August 2006, 11:18
Hi, Pat, and welcome to the site!

Here's the way I check crimp on the .45 ACP:

Stand at attention with a newly loaded round between thumb & forefinger in your strong hand. Keep your elbow straight, and press the nose of the cartridge against a firm surface (door jamb, loading bench, etc. Push hard, but stay below the force level that might induce a hernia :nono:

Rechech OAL of the test cartridge: If the bullet has not set back, it will not set back while in the magazine, either when chambering or during recoil when the gun fires other rounds. You have enough crimp.

Be aware that this is a "single-ended" test: Youhave enough crimp, but may be able to use less crimp. The crimp die is adjustable...

It would be nice to know what you are using for reloading gear.

Go slow, and make each round as good as you can; then inspect the result (a cartridge guage is helpful) and try to make the next round better. You will gain speed and uniformity as your proficiency increases.

Above all, stay safe, and as mentioned in an earlier post, stay within the limits specified in the reloading tables. When you have questions, ask, as you have fone here.

Good luck!

robertbank
8th August 2006, 12:00
Welcome to reloading. Here are a few things I have picked up along the way regarding the .45acp and reloading in no particular order.

1. Develop a routine and stick to it. double charges are dangerous and squib loads can be as bad or worse. Don't ask me how I know this.

2. The .45acp cartridge only needs a taper crimp and not much of one at that. The bullet is held in the case by friction so all you really are doing is removing the belling.

3. As somebody already mentioned for the most part large pistol primers are the same no matter the manufacturer. Personally I prefer Win, Fed and Remington and avoid CCI. Others may have different opinions.

4. Tumbling brass time can be cut down by adding a capful of Nu-FInish car was to the media. Works as good as Dillon Case cleaner at a fraction of the cost. (Smells like the same stuff IMHO).

5. If you experience leading, a wrap of 100% copper kitchen pads (I use Chore Boy), wrapped around an old cleaning brush gets rid of the leading faster than any other method I have ever tried. Makes cleaning your gun barrel a snap.

6. 5.3 gr Win 231 under my 200 gr Lyman cast bullets is a safe, accurate and economical load. Win 231 is a great powder for the .45acp cartridge and works well in .38Spl and 9MM as well.

7. .45acp Cases shorten, not lengthen over time. They last forever. You will never need to trim .45acp cases.

8. Cleaning primer pockets in the .45acp cartridge is a waste of time.

9. If you are looking at reloading equipment Dillon is far and away the most popular and for good reason. Their service department is excellent - their "no BS warranty" is all of that and more.

10. Avoid chasing velocity! If you are shooting paper I can tell you for a fact the holes appear just as fast at 750 fps as they do at 850 fps and the paper never cares. What is important is where the holes appear and therein lies your challenge.

Lastly get hold of a couple of good reloading manuals. Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook is an excellent reference manual if you are reloading lead bullets.

Trust some of this of interest.

Take Care

Bob

Woodman
8th August 2006, 12:37
To answer the "how do I check crimp" question, while the described method above does tell you that you have enough crimp, it does not give you a measurement.

To measure crimp with your calipers, measure right at the end of the case where it holds the bullet.

animalaapthy
10th August 2006, 15:01
.45 ACP case require little to no crimp, all you realy need to do is get rid of the belling.

Baldy
10th August 2006, 16:12
Please don't say no crimp because I made that mistake on the frist batch I loaded. I had forgot to put the crimp die in and only about 1 in 3 went in the chamber. Of course I didn't find this out till I got to the range. I came home and found my mistake and run them through the crimp die at .469", and they went through my gun like hot butter. 45's have to have a crimp.

robertbank
10th August 2006, 17:02
Baldy you twit :D you still have to remove the belling. I think that is what most of us mean when we say no crimp. Just remove the belling which is why your rounds wouldn't chamber. Have to say me to when I fail to take the belling out.

LOL

Bob

RONNIEJ
10th August 2006, 17:33
Please don't say no crimp because I made that mistake on the frist batch I loaded. I had forgot to put the crimp die in and only about 1 in 3 went in the chamber. Of course I didn't find this out till I got to the range. I came home and found my mistake and run them through the crimp die at .469", and they went through my gun like hot butter. 45's have to have a crimp.

I would think, it is more like not to over crimp. ;) but .469 is a must for auto's like the XD

RJ

Baldy
10th August 2006, 18:48
How right you are Robert. The bell on my 1st batch was little to nothing. I sure am glad I got over a lot of them beginner mistakes. I made a bunch. I needed a mentor in the worst way, but Ron's in Ky, your in Canada, and 2400 is in Az. What's a fellow to do??



:lh:

pa_guns
10th August 2006, 18:59
Hi

Something else to think about:

Most 1911's are happyest shooting 230 grain full metal jacket round nose bullets. If you have trouble with the 200 grain SWC's you might try a box of the 230's.

Bob

Shoot_for_fun
14th August 2006, 02:08
Read a reloading manual then read another one! Lyman has a good book with a specific section on reloading handgun cartridges. One item they caution is to NEVER ROLL CRIMP rimless cases for semi automatic handguns as it can dangerously shorten the case headspace dimension. Use dies with a taper crimp. You may already know that but just in case you don't make sure your dies are taper crimp. I am not familiar with Lee dies. Also Lyman suggests loading a dummy round, one with no primer or powder to check things out with. If you have a case gauge make sure it checks ok, if not remove the barrel from your pistol and make sure the round will drop in the chamber. You should hear the case hitting the end of the chamber when you drop it in. I do as someone has already mentioned in these threads on the crimp, I just crimp to remove the bell on the case mouth. Again read a couple different manuals and follow what they suggest. If you are unsure please post more questions as there are lots of people that have answers on this form.

Baldy
14th August 2006, 10:52
10-4 0n the Lyman's book. I got one shortly after I started. I don't make the mistakes like I use to. I have learned a lot about the game of reloading right here and on the webb.