Hammer won't drop with ACE conversion on Series 80 GCNM

[warmrain]

John,
This seems like it belongs in Gunsmithing and troubleshooting; however it pertains to conversion and it could belong there. I picked here because it seemed the most appropriate place for others to search for such information.

Johnny, et al,
I have an ACE conversion (blued steel, floating chamber) on a 1991 GCNM. The fit is excellent. Hand cycles smooth and feeds and ejects well by hand.

The trouble is the trigger behaves as if the grip or thumb safety is "on". Some diagnoses seems to indicate that it is because the Series 80 firing pin disconnector lever is not allowed to move up enough.

There is a channel machined into that area of the ACE slide that looks like it is intended to allow the Series 80 safety lever to move up, but it is either of insufficient depth or mis-aligned (if I am diagnosing properly).

Can anyone offer suggestions for a fix? Both the GCNM and the ACE kit are in LNIB condition and I would like to make them work as the ACE conversion is operationally (rear sight, locks on empty) equivelent to the slide on the GCNM that my wife is very fond of and desires to shoot in .22 for practice.

Many TIA for this!

Best, Steve

[John]

I sincerely doubt if that cut you are talking about was meant to accomodate the S80 firing pin lever. Ace conversion kits were made long before S80 pistols have in the market.

Simply, your pistol can not be fired, because the S80 lever has nowhere to move up to. Take the top lever off your frame, and the conversion kit should work fine. Leave the lower lever in place though, the hammer can't move around without the upper lever, but the sear needs the lower lever to stop it from moving around.

[warmrain]

Thanks John,

The object though, is to have a 45 ACP GM that can also be a 22 in a few moments time... It seems curious that there is a cut there, but that it is not deep enough...?

It seems that I have a couple choices:

1. Buy another frame that is Pre Series 80.
2. Modify the current only 5" frame I have (no, it's too nice - see photo).
3. Find another conversion kit that is Series 80 compatible.
4. Modify the conversion kit (mill the slide slot).
5. Buy a .22 1911 set-up already (e.g. Kimber target .22)

[Hunter]

What ever you do please don't modify your Gold Cup. I have an even better suggestion than you listed. Buy a nice Series 70 (original or reissue) and when you want to use the conversion use that frame.

[John]

If you do not want to remove the S80 parts (a seconds job), then by all means mill your slide and be done with it.

[OD*]

Why not just get a filler blank?
http://www.brownells.com/aspx/NS/store/productdetail.aspx?p=13121&s=

can also be a 22 in a few moments time
Never mind, sorry.
I over looked this the first time. :o

[warmrain]

What ever you do please don't modify your Gold Cup. I have an even better suggestion than you listed. Buy a nice Series 70 (original or reissue) and when you want to use the conversion use that frame.
Yes, the GCNM is too special to us. And, we want to go back and forth from 45 ACP to 22. I'm thinking I need to find a good used Series 70, complete or just frame...

Second choice, mill out the slide...

I was mostly looking for confirmation that I had diagnosed correctly...

Thanks all!

[1911Tuner]

No hammer fall can come from two difference sources.

Does the triggr make full travel, or does it stop short? If it stops short, it's probably interference with the plunger lever...and it prevents the trigger bar lever from rotating...which can block the trigger.

If the trigger makes full travel, it's the disconnect...or specifically the disconnect's timing slot in the slide not letting it pop up into the connected position.

[Hunter]

I read in the back one of my Colt manuals that a Series 80 frame is only compatable with a Series 80 conversion.

[1911Tuner]

I read in the back one of my Colt manuals that a Series 80 frame is only compatable with a Series 80 conversion.

Yep. Thassa fack, Jack! ;)