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Moose63845
8th July 2006, 21:34
So I took my Colt to the range for the first time today, and it doesn't like me. The grip safety is sharp and 9 hours later I still have marks on the web of my hand from it. Also it has some weird ejection problems. I know it is not a mag problem since they work fine in my Kimber, and I switched them and the mags are fine. What it is doing is this, the ejected round only half clears the slide and slams into the barrel hood, and a new round is half loaded into the chamber. Also when I clear the mag and chamber, the case wont eject right away it takes about 3 really hard racks of the slide to get the empty case out. As far as I know it is not a limp wristing problem since it happened even when I made sure I had a death vise grip on it. I also attempted to tune the extractor, and I cleaned the extractor and the tube it goes into when I changed out all the springs and detail stripped it. What's wrong with this thing, and how do I dehorn the grip safety. One other thing it did happen less with the mag it came with that has the extremly rounded follower. But it also did it with the Wilson 10rd mags I have with the plastic rounded follower as well.

1911Tuner
8th July 2006, 21:46
Ever happen on the last round, and sometimes will actually stuff the empty case part way back into the magazine? Case get caught horizontally between barrel hood and lside, with two deep gouges on the case mouth?

Standin' by...

Moose63845
8th July 2006, 22:08
Ever happen on the last round, and sometimes will actually stuff the empty case part way back into the magazine? Case get caught horizontally between barrel hood and lside, with two deep gouges on the case mouth?

Standin' by...
It happened once on the last round with the mag that came with the gun that had the metal rounded follower. The case got caught horizontally every time, it was always half ejected and half in, dent on one side of the case mouth, usually looks like someone stepped on it. But some are curved in as well, they all have horizontal or curved scratches on the dent. Also all have a small chip/dent on the rim on the same side as the dent in the case mouth. Rounds were WWB 230 gr.

1911Tuner
8th July 2006, 22:19
Okay...Sounds like the case is trying to eject straight into the lower port wall and being bounced back into the port...directly into the path of the slide.
The ejector is probably the cause, though the extractor can also be a player.

Is the ejector tight...back and front?

Does the gun have an extended-type ejector? These are more "tuneable" for angle of ejection than the standard ones. A lower impact point with the case ejects the case more up...while a lower point ejects it more straight out.

Is there enough tension on the extractor to hold a live round when the slide is shaken lightly?

Does the bottom of the extractor hook have a light radius, or is it square and sharp? it should have a little radius to allow the case to twist uip and out.
Square tends to release it closer to 3 O'clock...or lower...which is what I suspect is your problem.

Is your extractor hook depth from the tip to the wall more than about .036 inch? Too deep into the extractor groove tends to hang the case up while it's sideways in the port, trying to get out. More likely to occur with an extended ejector.

Is the gun oversprung? Heavier than 18 pounds on the recoil spring can cause all sorts of ills.

Moose63845
8th July 2006, 22:52
Ejector is tight as far as I can tell, standard ejector, extractor has enough tension to hold a live round, the extractor appears radiused. I think it is farther than the .036 you said, and it has a 16lb recoil and 23 mainspring so it's standard in the spring area.

1911Tuner
8th July 2006, 23:03
Okay...Measure from the backside of the stem to the tip...then from the backside of the stem to the wall, and subtract. Draw the tip along a stone to get the length down to .036 and be careful not to cut it at an angle. Keep the stem parallel to the stone, asnd don't cut it shorter than that.

If that doesn't produce results, look at the ejector. The top should be angled slightly downhill toward the nose. Use a small, flat file and carefully follow that angle. Remove just a little and try it. That will lower the point of impact on the case and cause it to kick out more upward. Don't get carried away if you don't get results with just a few thousandths of material removal.
You may need a new ejector. I had the same problem with a Springfield GI Mil-Spec and replacing the ejector was the final cure. Nothing else worked.

Moose63845
8th July 2006, 23:13
Ok thank you, if I have to replace the ejector should I go with an extended one or a standard?

1911Tuner
9th July 2006, 07:49
I always use an extended type for replacement. More tuneable, and provides a litte leeway in case ya screw up and get the angles wrong...which of course I never EVER do... :rolleyes: :D