02 loaded question

[scottyhipockets]

i have an 02 loaded ss that i bought new. i recently bought some new wilson internals. one of these was a "custom tune spring kit" that came with 2 recoil springs. one is labeled "10 #" and one "18 #". i assume this means one is a 10lb and one an 18lb. if that is correct which one should i use? i shoot 230 hardball mostly and the gun is a regular size 1911 not a compact. i also got an a2 sear, hammer, barrel bushing, sear spring, safety, and match trigger. anything i need to know about fitting these? do any of these parts need fitting? i have some experience with guns and fire control parts but only on "ak's" so i'd appreciate any help. thanks for any advice!

[scottyhipockets]

my spring kit also has a hammer spring (i think that's what it's called). does anyone know how the weight of this spring compares to my stock spring (i think the part description said it is lighter than stock) how will this affect my gun?

[wichaka]

Welcome to the forum! Kick back and make yourself at home.......

The 10lb is too light, and the 18 is too heavy, Go with a 14-16lb spring for everything.

All the parts you have there need to be fitted. The hardest is going to be the barrel bushing, as you'll need special tools to do that job correctly.

I would stick with the stock main (hammer) spring, its 23lbs and will do a good safe trigger job down to 4 1/2 lbs. I mention this 4 1/2lbs as most people think you can't get a good smooth trigger with the stock spring......'taint so.

A lighter main spring lightens the trigger pull, but I wouldn't go with anything less than 20lbs. I really push staying with the stock spring here, as it effects the sear engagement into the hammer hooks. And I like a bit more pressure on the engagement. If the trigger is already smooth, then the easiest way is to drop the pull weight is to drop the main spring down a few pounds.

Personally I don't do any trigger jobs less than 5lbs unless the person is very knowledgable with a 1911, then I'll fudge to 4 3/4lbs.

But unless you know what you're doing, I'd take everything you've got there to a reputable 'smith and have them install them for you. Or you could end up with a full auto 1911..........a bit exciting, but very dangerous.

If you've not worked on a 1911 before, I would suggest you pick up both Colt 45 shop manuals by Kuhnhausen. You can also check out blindhogg.com, he's got some procedures on his sight that show what it takes to do some of the things you're wanting. I only mention blindhogg to give you an idea of whats involved. I am not endorsing his web site...........

Again, I strongly caution you about doing the work yourself. Too many swipes with a file or stone and you've either ruined the part, or made a very unpredictable weapon.

Take care......

[John]

Now you know why this forum's description says what it says!

Rgds

[stans]

What Wichaka said! I've played the spring game, care to guess where I am with that now? :rolleyes:

[LDA45]

Hey!

I would pick up a manual on the subject (as suggested). An excellent basic "How To" would be Ed Browns "1911 Bench Reference Manual". I shoot Wolf 230gr. FMJ so I find the 18lb. recoil spring works great in my SA 1911-A1 loaded. As far as the other parts, they will most likely need some "tweaking" to get them to fit and function properly. You will need to approach this process with a lot of patience and attention to detail. Removal of metal, if needed, must be done in small increments. Parts will have to be repeatedly assembled althrough the process to check for fit and function. Also be aware that a part fitted and tested by dry firing does not guarantee it will function properly during live fire! You will have to make a few trips to the range during any alterations. Here's a pic of my last endeavor...
http://www.imageuploader.net/images/1437701911a1.jpg

[Iceman]

I also would resist the temptation to customise with those parts especially doing it yourself.

Check out the main m1911.org site, it has some very good information on customising 1911's. One of the suggestions is that leave everything stock if you can unless there is somehting you really really hate. I also just got a Loaded and I thought the gun is pretty good at it is ans that's also one of the reason I chose the Loaded over say GI or others. The only thing I might do is perhaps put in a mag well for what I do.

Just my 2 cents worth. :)

[scottyhipockets]

thanks for the advice. what sort of fitting might the new hammer need? if my gun is made to spec. and the new hammer, trigger, and sear pass all of the function/safety tests when installed (not likely i'd guess) how will i know what fitting is required? i'm still reading and asking questions before i tear into this. if it seems beyond me i'll find a smith but it is quite tempting to replace the mentioned parts and see what happens. i live in northwest wisconsin, any good smiths in my area? thanks!