REassembly question

[BigO]

When you folks reasseble the frame and reinstall the grip safety do you push it straight in or do you start it high and roll it in ?

The reason I ask is while waiting for my parts to replace my FLGR I decided I would fix my sticky grip safety that wasn't quite fitted correctly at the factory . I lightly filed and sanded the areas it was hanging up on checking it several times to make sure I didn't remove too much metal . When I was ready to put it back together I used a New Swenson sear I had sitting here and did NOTING to it as it seemed well finished at the factory .

After I had it all together the first time I had let the sear spring slip out of place so the hammer wouldn't fall , Do it all over again and this time I had deactivated the grip safety somehow . I took it apart and reassembled it 5 more times and still no grip safety .

Finally I just put the old sear back into the gun and the only thing I think I did differently was that I rolled the grip safety into place rather than just pushing it straight in , and now all works just fine .

I didn't measure the sears so there could be some dimensional differences that caused the problem I suppose , but if there are any it has to be a few thousands of an inch or so , as I did compare them side by side before I put the factory one back into place .

Could it have been the new sear that caused this or was I simply reassembling it incorrectly ?

[Gammon]

Sears are not "drop in" parts. They need to be fitted to the pistol and the parts they interact with. I don't know if the sear is the problem or your assembly technique; its hard to tell if you're not there. What's worse, I can't really describe my assembly technique for this procedure. If the pistol works with the original sear, your problem is solved. If you want a trigger job you need a gunsmith or some top rate reference material, like Kuhnhausen's books on the .45 (Brownells). If you do intend to attempt a trigger job, I would recommend replacing the hammer and sear as a set.

[John]

If you want a trigger job you need a gunsmith or some top rate reference material, like Kuhnhausen's books on the .45 (Brownells).

Why? Isn't the Poor Man's Trigger Job enough? I mean I've got decent triggers around 4 lbs, in every gun I've applied it. What more will Kuhnhausen offer?

[Gammon]

Why? Isn't the Poor Man's Trigger Job enough? I mean I've got decent triggers around 4 lbs, in every gun I've applied it. What more will Kuhnhausen offer?

An in depth understanding of the functioning of the pistol and reference material for just about all of the repair and custom work you might want to do. I stumbled on to Mr. Kuhnhausen after 20 years of tinkering and was amazed at what I didn't know. You NEED these books! This will be $60 well spent.

[Joni Lynn]

Would you believe I got the set of books as a birthday present last year!! Whoopie!!!
I bet I'm the only girl in PA to get a gift like that!

[Gammon]

Congratulations! I have found these books to be invaluable, but the amount and depth of information can be a little overwhelming. I find I have to read them slowly and pay very close attention. I think a lot of the information is intended for a professional gunsmith, not me.

[Gammon]

OOPS! I never read the "Poor Man's Trigger Job" before; Tuner at his best. This is an excellent source for info on this operation, perhaps the best I have ever read, but I think manuals such as Kuhnhausen's would still be a valuable resource due to their pictures and diagrams. Tuner did as good a job as anyone could do with the written word, but I think some people may still need the visual material offered by Kuhnhausen. Also, these manuals are simply a wealth of information, covering all aspects of the 1911. If you don't believe me, ask Joni Lynn.

[BigO]

Thanks Gammon , I have the AGI 1911 Armorers DVD , and plan to buy more material in the future . I have heard Kuhnhausen's work is excellent and at some point will follow your advice and buy it .

I replaced the sear for one simple reason , the hammer had a seam on it and it wore a notch in the sear , the trigger pull was horrible out of the box . I cleaned up the hammer with some 600 grit lightly sanded just enough so that I can't feel it although it is still visable "barely" as well as smoothing the sear around the damage , all wanted was an undamaged sear in the gun , NOT a custom light weight trigger pull .

One thing though Gammon , you have at this point made four posts to this thread , you realy couldn't somewhere in there simply state I do yada yada yada to put the grip safety in place , or just say " I don't know never paid attention " "I can't describe it" LOL come on now do you stand on your head and juggle balls with your feet while you do this ?

Have a good one

[wichaka]

BigO......The sear isn't the problem with the grip safety fit. I think you figured the problem when you used a different technique to install it.

Also, Tuner didn't write "poor mans trigger job", but I cant remember who wrote it though.

[Hunter]

I have found that reading Mr. Kuhnhausen's shop manuel is much like reading the King James version of the Bible. You need to read it slow and pay attention. Allot of great information to be understood and sometimes takes a little help. My thoughts anyway.

[Gammon]

The trick to installing the grip safety is to get all the small pieces under it in the right place before you install the MS housing. You have to make sure that all three of the spring legs are in the right place. I wish I could be more helpful, but I have done it so many times, it is second nature, and I still screw it up from time to time.
Installing a hammer and sear as a set won't necessarily give you a "lightweight trigger" it will just make sure that the parts are compatible, i.e. new and in spec (hopefully). I have been doing my own triggers for years and always start with a set of new parts. I am a tinkerer, I'm not good enough to rehab worn parts.

[Gammon]

I have found that reading Mr. Kuhnhausen's shop manuel is much like reading the King James version of the Bible. You need to read it slow and pay attention. Allot of great information to be understood and sometimes takes a little help. My thoughts anyway.

My sentiments exactly.

[1911Tuner]

I start mine a little high and roll it in. Make sure the hammer strut doesn't get pinched, and it'll be ai'ght. ;)

[John]

Also, Tuner didn't write "poor mans trigger job", but I cant remember who wrote it though.

Strange, I always thought it was Johnny's.


This is an excellent source for info on this operation, perhaps the best I have ever read, but I think manuals such as Kuhnhausen's would still be a valuable resource due to their pictures and diagrams.

Oh, I agree, I am still looking around for Jerry's Vol. 2, all I am saying is that Johnny's job is perfect for the amateur gunsmith or even for the professional. I have thought of adding some pictures there, to make things easier for novices, never found the time to do it. Let me add it to my To-Do list.

[1911Tuner]

>>Also, Tuner didn't write "poor mans trigger job", but I cant remember who wrote it though.<<
****************

OOH! OOH! I beg to differ! The term may not be mine, but the outlined procedure most assuredly is. ;) Most refer to boosting the hammer as TPMTJ.

[wichaka]

hmmmmmmm guess its my mind thats going..........UGH! :scared:

[OD*]

First I heard of "poor boy-poor man" trigger jobs and "boosting the hammer" was in Skeeter Skeleton articles.

[1911Tuner]

First I heard of "poor boy-poor man" trigger jobs and "boosting the hammer" was in Skeeter Skeleton articles.

Sounds about right. The term has been around even since before that.

My procedure ain't anything secret. Basically just prep work and polish where it needs to be, and stops short of messin' with the sear primary angle and cuttin' the hammer hooks too short for comfort.

[bearboy]

I have found it helpful to install the sear spring then put the mainspring housing in about half way to hold the spring in proper position while installing the grip safety.Maybe it's just me but it makes installation easier when "rolling " the grip safety as Tuner mentioned.

[Joni Lynn]

That's the way I do it also. The mainspring housing is a good extra third hand in that instance.