Ejector question

[madcritter]

My commander model that I built is throwing the brass right over my head (when it doesn't hit me in the head). What do I need to do to the extractor ?

[wichaka]

Check out the tech section, there's instructions there on how to tune an extractor.

[John]

First of all, take your pistol in your hands and caress it. Speak softly to it. Promise that you will run at least 200 rounds a week through it. Take it apart and clean it. Oil it well, and take it out to the range for a session. If it still hits you on the forehead, then you know for sure you have a 1911 and not a Tupperware gun.
:p

Check your extractor tension, and also check that it does not rotate inside its tunnel. The firing pin stop should be snag when inserted in the slide, not allowing the extractor to rotate or move back and forth.

[madcritter]

First of all, take your pistol in your hands and caress it. Speak softly to it. Promise that you will run at least 200 rounds a week through it. Take it apart and clean it. Oil it well, and take it out to the range for a session. If it still hits you on the forehead, then you know for sure you have a 1911 and not a Tupperware gun.
:p

Check your extractor tension, and also check that it does not rotate inside its tunnel. The firing pin stop should be snag when inserted in the slide, not allowing the extractor to rotate or move back and forth.

Hey John,
I'm one step ahead, it is not tupperware. Also it is not rotating inside the tunnel. Last night I did the bevel to the bottom of the lip. I figure if that does not do it then it will be the tension and am not sure if it should be bent in to ward the firing pin or out to keep from getting forehead Hickeys.
by the way with the old blue extract it did not do the forehead tap. It started with the new SS extractor I put in.
PS
I just cleaned it again, will let it stay up late tonight past it's bed time to watch a Duke movie with me.
thanks

[John]

You know the old saying "If it is not broken, do not fix it"?

Either put the old extractor in, or adjust the new one to pass the extractor test. It just has to barely hold the round there, when you shake it. Too much tension and the rounds will not chamber properly.

[madcritter]

You know the old saying "If it is not broken, do not fix it"?

Either put the old extractor in, or adjust the new one to pass the extractor test. It just has to barely hold the round there, when you shake it. Too much tension and the rounds will not chamber properly.


Yea, but you know, want all the parts to match. Will do the test and "adjust" from there.
Thanks for your help

[1911Tuner]

Many people...when building up a Commander-length gun...fail to notice that Commander ejectors aren't just extended. They're also offset to the right
about .050 inch or so. Many aftermarket Commander-length slides don't have the ejector slot correctly cut FOR a Commander spec ejector. Essex is one that doesn't do it right. Don't know about any others, since Essex is the only slide supplier that I've used for a Commander ground-up build.

[madcritter]

Many people...when building up a Commander-length gun...fail to notice that Commander ejectors aren't just extended. They're also offset to the right
about .050 inch or so. Many aftermarket Commander-length slides don't have the ejector slot correctly cut FOR a Commander spec ejector. Essex is one that doesn't do it right. Don't know about any others, since Essex is the only slide supplier that I've used for a Commander ground-up build.

well this is an essex's slide. so use a standard length ejector ?

[1911Tuner]

well this is an essex's slide. so use a standard length ejector ?

No. You still need to use an extended ejector, but you may have to make adjustments to it in order to alter the ejection pattern. What's likely happening is that the cases are being hit by the slide as it moves rearward.
The trick is in figuring out whether they're hitting the bottom of the port first and bouncing up into the path of the top of the port...or releasing straight up into the path of the slide. The tracks are your clue.

The lower on the case the ejector contacts, the more straight up the ejection. The lower it hits...the more straight out. The nose can also be angled slightly to cause the case to roll out on a rearward path...or a compound angle to cause it to roll out and release rearward and upward...say out the port at 2 O'Clock and 15 degrees to the rear of the gun. With most of these headshooting brass issues...it's the former. The case hits the bottom of the port and bounces into the top. When it's the latter, it generally causes the brass to eject sharply to your right rear.
You may have to take a little off the front, left corner to move the point of contact closer to the center of the case.

Experiment with it slowly and carefully. You don't have to alter the shape of the nose and the point of contact very much to show a big change. You also may kill an ejector before you get the hang of it and/or find the sweet spot.

Try filing a light 45 degree angle on the corner along the length of the ejector, right side, all the way to the end and see what the change is. That may be all it takes, or you may also have to take a tiny amount off the top to lower the point of contact...
or from the underside to raise it. Make one change at a time and shoot the gun 15-20 times to see what the change is, and if it's consistent.

[madcritter]

No. You still need to use an extended ejector, but you may have to make adjustments to it in order to alter the ejection pattern. What's likely happening is that the cases are being hit by the slide as it moves rearward.
The trick is in figuring out whether they're hitting the bottom of the port first and bouncing up into the path of the top of the port...or releasing straight up into the path of the slide. The tracks are your clue.

The lower on the case the ejector contacts, the more straight up the ejection. The lower it hits...the more straight out. The nose can also be angled slightly to cause the case to roll out on a rearward path...or a compound angle to cause it to roll out and release rearward and upward...say out the port at 2 O'Clock and 15 degrees to the rear of the gun. With most of these headshooting brass issues...it's the former. The case hits the bottom of the port and bounces into the top. When it's the latter, it generally causes the brass to eject sharply to your right rear.
You may have to take a little off the front, left corner to move the point of contact closer to the center of the case.

Experiment with it slowly and carefully. You don't have to alter the shape of the nose and the point of contact very much to show a big change. You also may kill an ejector before you get the hang of it and/or find the sweet spot.

Try filing a light 45 degree angle on the corner along the length of the ejector, right side, all the way to the end and see what the change is. That may be all it takes, or you may also have to take a tiny amount off the top to lower the point of contact...
or from the underside to raise it. Make one change at a time and shoot the gun 15-20 times to see what the change is, and if it's consistent.

OK think I got it will take the tool box and extra extractors to the range Monday.
thanks for the help

[madcritter]

made it to the range this morning. fired 5 rounds, still going toward the head but a little higher. Replaced SS extractor with another one I had from a standard size 45 it was a bit longer. It would not funtion properly. took the ss extractor bent it a little (away from firing pin) tried it again. It would not extract at all. took it out bent it toward the firing pin, now it throws them to the right. but is putting big dings in the casings, will need to beval the port wall and make a roll over slot.