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schapman43
9th November 2004, 13:45
How hard is it to replace the ejector on a Springfield GI 1911? Also, who makes a good bar stock ejector?

stumbler
10th November 2004, 09:22
Most of the ejectors on SA are loc-tite in. Normally, some heat will loosen the loc-tite and you should be able to remove the ejector (be careful not to break a leg off in the frame).

Is there a problem with the ejector or are you wanting a change. I am a strong believer in "If it isn't broke, don't fixit (especially with the ejectors).

schapman43
10th November 2004, 09:31
Most of the ejectors on SA are loc-tite in. Normally, some heat will loosen the loc-tite and you should be able to remove the ejector (be careful not to break a leg off in the frame).

Is there a problem with the ejector or are you wanting a change. I am a strong believer in "If it isn't broke, don't fixit (especially with the ejectors).

Thanks for the info.

I'm from the school of "If it could break, fix it" :)

1911Tuner
10th November 2004, 10:43
Howdy Schapman,

The ejector on my GI Springer was pinned AND glued in...It was also bad.
I replaced mine to make the gun stop bangin' me in the head with brass
after tryin' everything else that I could think of, including lowering the port a little.

You'll need a 1/16th flat faced punch to drift the pin out...left to right. Clamp the ejector in a vise and use a slow, easy front-to-rear rocking motion
to get it off the frame. Be careful! If you break one of the legs, you're up a creek. When the ejector starts to move away from the frame, pull straight out.

You'll need to cut the groove in your replacement aftermarket ejector. I suggest installing it and using a drill bit through the frame to mark it. Use a triangular needle file to start the cut. Reinstall it and look through the hole in the frame to see where you need to go from there. Use the tirangular file
until the "vee" is just short of flush with the radius of the pin hole, and switch to a round needle file to finish it. Try to keep the groove small...just a tiny bit under pin diameter and try to drive the pin through with light taps. When the groove is sized correctly, the pin will go through with just medium friction.

Forget trying to drill the groove using the holes as a guide. The drill bit will
break off in the hole. When the pin will just start through, without raising the rear end of the ejector, knock it back out and put a drop of green Lock-Tite in the holes.

if the front doesn't lay flush, you either need to shorten the leg a little, or bias your file pressure toward the top of the groove. if the rear doesn't go flush, you need to bias it toward the bottom of the groove. Perfect is when the pin goes through and pulls both ends tight against the frame.

Be prepared to kill one on your first try. Most do.

Luck!

schapman43
10th November 2004, 11:21
Be prepared to kill one on your first try. Most do.



DOH! Not that again! :)

schapman43
10th November 2004, 11:49
1911Tuner, do you shape the front of your ejectors? What ejectors do you suggest?

gottripletsNC
10th November 2004, 18:41
DOH! Not that again! :)

How'd I know that was coming?

at least you could say you learned by trial and error...

good luck man...........

1911Tuner
10th November 2004, 20:13
part of the game, lads. Ya wanna sing da blues? Ya gotta pay yer dues.

Awwwwww...Play it sad! Make it suffer and cry! :cool:

Tuner Ray Vaughan

schapman43
11th November 2004, 15:41
part of the game, lads. Ya wanna sing da blues? Ya gotta pay yer dues.

Awwwwww...Play it sad! Make it suffer and cry! :cool:

Tuner Ray Vaughan


So what ejector do you folks recommend?

1911Tuner
11th November 2004, 16:37
So what ejector do you folks recommend?

For extended type ejectors....Ed Brown. For standard or "GI" type...factory Colt. The Brown extended ejectors won't work with Colt commanders without
a little modification for clearance with the slide. Factory Colt Commander ejectors are best for Colt Commanders. Colt extended ejectors won't work on 5-inch guns. I think I've got that right... :confused: :D