after market trigger?

[Thumper2t]

Once i get all my GI jamming issues handled...

Im interested in replacing the trigger. I dont know how many parts are actually involved, but i need a lighter more reponsive trigger.

anyone have any suggestions?

Sam

[wichaka]

The fastest and most inexpensive way to do it is to first replace the main spring that's in it with a 23lb. Then polish up the hammer hooks, sear nose, and disconnect.

Look at the sear nose for how much relief cut it has, and adjust as needed. Although most sears coming in SA's lately have a very thin nose. So the most you can do with them, is break just the edge over on the relief side......and that should do it.

[stans]

Unless you know what you are doing, I do not suggest altering the sear, hammer or disconnector. Ever see a 1911 go full auto? I have and it ain't pretty. All of them had light trigger pulls, most done at the kitchen table with hand tools. Please don't be offended by my post, but I have seen people seriously injured by unwanted full auto trigger jobs on 1911's.

[wichaka]

I agree stans......sorry about that. I should have added that to my post.

Thumper, if you're not sure what/how to do it.........DON'T!
Take it to a good 'smith, or stop by and I'll fix ya up........no charge.

[Thumper2t]

your not in west texas are ya
:)

[wichaka]

Sorry.......Washington State.

If you're not sure how to do the procedure. Take it to a competent 'smith, they'll fix ya up.

[gottripletsNC]

Thumper,
I bought a match, adjustable from SA and put in mine, however, I have yet to figure out how it is adjustable, because that set screw on it didn't strike against anything, Wichaka, Stans, Tuner, if any have any idea on that part lemme know, cause i'm still 'fused about that one, anyways. Thumper I didn't do anything to the sear etc. on my WW2, but what I did do and seemed to be the biggest benefit was that I went with a 19# mainspring, which SA comes with 26 or 27# mainsprings, but listen to wichaka, the 23# may be all you need. I prefer a crisp, quick trigger pull on all my weapons, thats what I'm used to. You may not like that. That fixed me up right as far as trigger pull, less pressure against the hammer I guess. The trigger did do one thing appreciable however, it was just a little longer, enough that it took the play/creep out of the trigger pull, which did more for accuracy than the lighter trigger pull did, at least to me. :cool:

After thinking about it, all I can figure is the adjustment rides on the mag release allowing only so much travel in the trigger so that it can come back to ready quicker for faster trigger pulls, hence faster firing, hence speed match. Is that correct, or am I just pootin' in the wind on that guess?

[stumbler]

An Adjustable trigger in a 1911a1 has a screw to adjust the overtravel of the trigger after it releases the sear. IT DOES NOT ADJUST TRIGGER PULL. It only stops how far back it goes.


Improper adjustment can render any 1911 inop.

[stans]

What Stumbler said.

[gottripletsNC]

I believe you, but just for my knowledge, what does the screw strike to keep the trigger from too far of a travel, is it the mag release. Just trying to figure out it hits, only thing I see is the mag release, and if thats the case, then it did what I wanted it too. It took out the creep, and I guess it prevents the travel too much, so that it returns to normal for the next round. Not too dumb, just like to know the intricacies of how it works. Thanks stumbler, and Stans.

[wichaka]

Yes, it stops on the mag. catch housing.

The proper adjustment for that screw........is to allow the trigger to trip the sear off the hooks just enough so it not only clears the hooks but also clears the 1/4 cock notch.
If it gets adjusted for too little overtravel, the sear will drag the ends of the hooks and the edge of the 1/4 cock notch......which in time will ruin your sear.........very little time. Just a few pulls.

[gottripletsNC]

thanks for the info wichaka, that makes sense to me now, and I have it just right i guess, got enough travel for the sear to clear, but the trigger doesn't travel much past that.

[wichaka]

A real easy way to test for it, is to remove the thumb safety. This allows you to look into the safety cut out and view the sear legs. Since the hammer is already cocked (for removal of the thumb safety)(make sure gun is unloaded) pull the trigger. After the hammer falls, do not release the trigger, but thumb the hammer back just a bit very slowly. If you see the sear move, you've got it adjusted too much, back it off. Now realize the sear will move into the cock notch when the hammer is pulled back far enough.

Happy 'smithing.........

[gottripletsNC]

i'll try that, will there be any marring on the sear if it is overadjusted?

[wichaka]

Yes there will be marks on the sear, which is why I mentioned in my earlier post about them getting ruined within a few trigger pulls.

[gottripletsNC]

thanks, I checked the sear, and tried that move with the thumb removed, no problems at all, thanks for the advice. Looks like I am good. I've put 100 or so rounds through it since I put in the trigger, with no marks or anything.

[wichaka]

Gotta love the happy customers...........brings tears to my eyes.......pass the kleenex please.