View Full Version : General Questions
21st October 2004, 19:37
Trying to get up to speed on 1911 terminology. Can anyone help? What is a Colt NRM or ORM. Also what is a fully supported barrel? What is the benefit of a 1911 without the barrel bushing? What is the machining that is required to put a full length guide rod in an Officers ACP and does anyone make a unit that does not require an allen wrench just to disassemble? Some are probably very simple but I've been described that way!
21st October 2004, 19:56
Nrm new roll mark so Orm old roll mark...fully supported barrel means the cartridge Case is fully supported..
Now a non bushed barrel is supposed to be tighter and more accurate .. cant say yeah or nay either way..
on the guide rod i cant say... but why gun worked many years fine with out a FLGR..
21st October 2004, 23:45
Wilson, Kings, and Brown makes full length guide rod kits. But each requires the back portion of the slide apron (I may get slammed for that term) to be taken down a bit, usually around .070" The slide apron is that lower part of the front of the slide where the recoil spring and plug go thru.
If you go with a full length guide rod, you're gonna want a 2 piece type. Its a pain to need the hex wrench, but take down is much easier.
22nd October 2004, 06:44
Howdy wichaka and tc300mag1,
Thanks for the reply and info. You guys are good! What is the supposed difference between the NRM and ORM firearmwise? Is it just cosmetic? Also I've read that the Officer's ACP has problems with the barrel bushing and the recoil spring plug breaking. Not very concerned but what is the popular fix? I believe the FLGR is the fix for the plug but do not like altering my Colts irreparably. Would something like a titanium replica of the items solve the problem?
22nd October 2004, 10:23
I had an LW Officers model some years ago, put thousands of rounds thru it and didn't have a problem. But ........some do.
A guide rod by itself will not cure anything, its the tip on the recoil spring plug that can shear off. So the whole plug must be replaced. That's why they came up with the reverse plug. It has a lip that makes contact with whole back side of the apron, unlike the stock piece which just has the little tip to keep it.
I've not heard of any problems with the barrel bushing, but there are better ones out there than the stock piece.
The NRM Colts seem to be a bit better fit & finish. I've had the chance to work on both now...........and there is a difference. Plus I like the NRM, alot better looking than the old one.
22nd October 2004, 10:40
Glad to hear that! I'll just leave it original now. I got the spring in the Colt Gold Cup. The new spring was significantly longer than the one I removed. :( I've noticed several things that concern me. First is that the barrel link pin falls out without assistance. Next I've noticed that the front of the chamber area of the barrel, along the sides and top of the barrel and the inside of the slide on and before the first "locking band" are scuffed up. I remember in the past using scothbrite pads on the barrel to remove the scrapes but now I'm more informed and nervous. Lastly two areas on the side of the trigger are showing wear into the finish. Especially noticeable on the nickle. Should I be worried, how much and what needs repair. It currently has the Wilson one piece FLGR and pad along with my idiot scratches. Thanks to the forum for teaching the correct manners with my pistols!!!! Help!
22nd October 2004, 11:12
I wouldn't worry too much about the spring being longer, as long as you're sure you have the right spring. Old springs will take a set, thus be shorter.....
The barrel link pin should not fall out, it should be a snug press fit. I've peened a few that were that way, but if it's too loose, it may need to be replaced. Is this a new gun? are you the original owner?
Scotch brite pads will shine it up for you fine. I use well worn out emory cloth. Gets the same results............
Not sure what you mean by "the trigger is showing wear into the finish, especially on the nickel", as the trigger is inside the frame...........
22nd October 2004, 11:41
The spring is the Wolff 16lb so it's o.k. I am the original owner of the pistol which is a fully nickled (nickeled). Impulse buy as I wanted a blue Gold Cup. Got lucky though as it has the enhanced features (lowered and flared ejection port, beavertail grip safety and the elongated Commander style hammer) which at the time didn't know what they were or their importance. I've shot alot of rounds through it maybe 2000 of factory hardball. Haven't shot it in over two years though. Just now noticed the link pin problem. How do I tell if there is not a more severe problem ie. elongated hole in link or whatever? When in battery the barrel doesn't move if pushed down. In the past the spring plunger had to be restaked. And I took it apart in my youth and had to have a gunsmith put it back together. In regards to the trigger, it shows two spots on one side where you can see it in the triggerguard that have the nickle finish wearing thin. Wondering if this is a problem or just a pain in my finish. My major concern if the wear on the barrel and the slide locking lug. Is this a timing problem possibly due to the link and link pin or should I not worry??!!??!!?! Don't know of a really good local gunsmith. It's so nice I almost don't want to fire it, Almost! Thanks for any information.
22nd October 2004, 14:32
I take it to mean that your trigger is nickeled as well? If that's the case, it sounds like its rubbing on the inside of the frame where the trigger itself comes out into the trigger guard. The only thing to do there is strip it down, and dress down any areas in the trigger opening on the frame that may be causing it. Not sure if you will be able totally get away from it though. Seems every gun I've seen/worked on, has some kind of rub marks there.
As for link wear, look for elongated link holes. I don't have my spec book with me right now or I could tell you the size that the holes in the link should be. If Tuner's watching this one, he should be able to do it. If not, when I get home I'll get back to you on that one. I would recommend you obatin both Kuhnhausens books called Colt .45 - a shop manual. Get both Vol 1 & 2. This will give some very good pointers on the function and care for the 1911, as well as all the critical measuements of every piece in the gun.
Post or email me pics of the ares you think show concern as to wear. Hard to say without looking at it. There's always going to be a bit of wear, but how much tells the story of what's going on.
23rd October 2004, 19:08
wichaka, how does one go about adding photos to the messages?
Like to get that info to you. TIA
24th October 2004, 13:19
You'll need to place your pic on a web space that your I-net provider has. At least my proviver gives me free web space to place files that others can access or to post pics.
If its easier, email them to me, and I'll post them here.
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