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View Full Version : Almost decided to shoot my Gold Cup,maybe.


Hajah Momenem
27th February 2006, 04:25
I'm new(pictures asap:);and I'm wondering what basic mods to Series '70 GC(if any) might be good for shooting hollowpoints,FMJ Hardball;and if any of the newer style night sights might be fitted without too much slide modification. My GC is in NIB condition. One guy I know said he wouldn't do anything but make sure I have a 16 pound recoil spring in it. I don't know what strength recoil spring I have. I feel dumber than Jessica Simpson! I can't seem to get the barrel bushing off;I have no problem getting the bushing off the Series '80 Officer's model(that pistol rattles when I shake it/unlike the bank-safe-tight Gold Cup). Anyone feel like it is a baad idea to shoot full-power or +power or 230 gr. FMJ rounds in a GC? I don't shoot competitions;may shoot some sort of practical course in the future.
I have an old X15 Bianchi shoulder holster;and I have tried fitting the GC into it. It seems a perfect fit except for the sharp front site carving out curliques of leather when I draw from it.
Since this pistol is in such pristine condition,might it be wise from a pecuniary standpoint to put it back under the bed?
I'm off to study what has become one of my very favorite subjects "SPRINGS"! What a fine article on springs I found on the main menu page. I believe the author's name is "Tuner". Great info. on springs!
Keep your powder dry and your scalp in place,
Hajah Momenem

John
27th February 2006, 11:04
I would say shoot the pistol, after all it was made for this role.

Personally, I do not care for +P ammo, the .45 ACP is capable enough, so the additional velocity, for me at least, is not significant. Good bullet design and of course and above all, good bullet placement is more important.

For standard loads (230 gr.) , a 16 lbs spring is what you should use.

Ericthenorse
27th February 2006, 11:53
I use my Gold Cup all the time. as far as the bushing goes, it is a different style than the series 80... It is what is called a "collet" bushing. It has four fingers that grip the barrel, and the barrel flares out at the end so the bushing tightens up when the slide comes foreward. Just get a good bushing wrench and turn it clockwise and it should come off... There have been several good discusions here about the Cups in the last few weeks. Try using the search function at the top of the page, and look for Gold Cup...you should turn up some great info...

RickB
27th February 2006, 14:15
Ditto the no-need-for-+P; you lose a large part of what makes the .45 such a great cartridge, when you overload it.
Gold Cups were, at one time, anyway, shipped with a 10# spring for "target" loads, and a 16# spring for normal loads. 16# is normal for the Government Model and M1911/11A1.
I've heard at least one pistolsmith guarantee that you will lose your front sight if you shoot hardball from your S70 Gold Cup. The rear sight is notorious for breaking the crosspin that retains it in the slide, and shooting hardball will accelerate that problem (I've seen three of those pins break).
When removing the collet bushing, retract the slide about a half-inch before trying to turn it; that will release the spring tension of the collet.
If you are going to shoot hollowpoints and +Ps, the Gold Cup is not the best choice. It's really intended for light, wadcutter target loads.

Ericthenorse
27th February 2006, 17:14
Aside from the rear sight pin breaking, there is no reason you could not shoot anything you want through it.. The earlier pre series 70 guns had lightened slides, and couldn't handle hot loaads. the series 70 Cups use the same basic setup as a standard government issue, and will have no problems. If your rear sight still has a hollow pin holding it in, you will want to replace it. Colt used to sell a solid pin, but I am not sure if they still do. The later series 80 guns used the solid pin before they switched styles of sight on them... As far as switching the sght out all together, you are kind of stuck. There are a few companies making replacement sights for the cups, but they are just like the origionals...

Hunter
27th February 2006, 18:07
Eric is right about using a bushing wrench on the collet bushings (be sure not to mar the finish when removing and installing the bushing) and making sure you have a solid pin holding the sight in place. I would not shoot +P through my Gold Cup or any other 1911 for that matter. As far as factory and defensive loads no problems. I shoot my Gold Cups semi regular without and modifications or problems. Like you said be sure you have a 16 pound recoil spring for full power loads. I would shoot it. Mine get shot but they do not go to the range every time I do that is what my Gold Cup Trophy is for.

191145
27th February 2006, 22:26
I would not try to use the GCNM for full-power loads, particularly since it is in pristine condition. I assume you know how much money you'll lose after you start shooting it. Tell you what, I had the exact same thoughts a few years ago, and I bought the springs to set my GCNM up for hardball. I just couldn't do it, so I sold it and got a good old Colt Government Model and a High-Power and haven't looked back. If you can keep it and get a shooter, that would be a good plan. If you want to shoot it, restrict it to 185 grain target loads.
As far as the barrel bushing, I think I know what you're saying; it's important to push the slide back 1/2" when turning the bushing clockwise to free the plug. This gets the collet bushing to the thinner section of barrel so it gets loose. Then it should also be easy to turn counter-clockwise to the release point. It is not necessary to take the bushing off the barrel to finish field-stripping the pistol. If you need to remove the bushing, you just pull it straight off the barrel (it will be tight). It is recommended to not remove it often as this shortens the life of the barrel-gripping 'fingers'. With the Mk IV Series 70, a non-marring bushing wrench is a good thing to have.

Hunter
27th February 2006, 23:30
With the 16 pound recoil spring you should have no problems shooting full power loads out of a Series 70 Gold Cup National Match. Aside from the enhancements there is really is no difference than any other Series 70 and those enhancements will not be bothered by 230 ball as long as you use a 16 pound recoil spring. If you are a collector and plan on reselling the Colt to another collector down the line shooting it at all will degrade the value some (assuming it is NIB). As long as you do not abuse it the Colt will hold right much value. My opinion anyway.

Hajah Momenem
28th February 2006, 02:45
Thank you all for the input. I was hoping for varied replies and got them;now I have some decisions to make....after i re-read these posts a dozen more times.
The cloudiness/milky-looking patches on the bluing is something I would like to get rid of or stop its getting worse;any good tricks for that?
I'll be shopping for a non-marring bushing wrench/tool. Will it be made of plastic?
Thanks for the tip on barrel bushing removal(retract slide 1/2"...);that is valuable/useful information!
I did get both counter-clockwise and clockwise bush-turning directions;so I'm assuming it will come off either way(?)
I'm going for the archived GC info from the search option as advised. I'm still on the fence regarding shooting this gun. Competition shooting does not appeal to me;so I won't be buying any 185 gr. SWC ammo. I'll either replace the sights/springs and shoot it or sell it to help pay for another piece.
For now I'll take the sage advice "When in doubt do nothing."
Learning all I can about the 1911-type pistols is something I am going to savor;and I know it will be an enjoyable and lengthy mission.
Pray for Mother Earth.
K.B. Warwulf

Ericthenorse
28th February 2006, 12:25
If you are looking at the gun from the front, youwill need to turn the bushing clockwise to release the recoil spring. Then, after you have the slide off of the gun, you will need to turn the bushing counter-clockwise to remove it from the slide. :D