Best "Gun Blue" Finish?

[CaptainSKA]

Okay, after much thinking about it and looking around at various stainless firearms, I have decided that my original idea of having my Springer Loaded hard chromed is not the way to go... I really like a good, rich, deep gun blue look, and I'm not too hot on a stainless look... But I also know that blueing is probably the least wear/impact and corrosion resistant finish available... so what are my options?

I know Gun Kote offers a Gun Blue color, but I'm not about to attempt something like this myself (not to mention the flak I'd catch for using the oven...)

I've also heard bad things about the polymer finishes as far as wear resistance... But what's the real story? How do the various finishes rank for wear/impact resistance and corrosion resistance... especially against each other (ie: is park better than blue?, is poly better than park?, etc).

Is there a "gun blue" ceramic finish??

Thanks all you 1911 'smiths and gurus for your help.

[John]

According to Craig at NHC, their Black Diamond finish is the most resistent black/blue finish on earth. However, I do not know the company which does that, so I can't help. But a good, deep blueing is my prefered finish too, but for practical considerations I would go with stainless on a new gun.

[CaptainSKA]

Yeah, but that Black Diamond is going to be black right, it won't look like a blued firearm, correct? What would that finish cost anyway?

With the Gun Kote, I've noticed several places offer a "professional" Gun Kote... is this any different than what you can do at home? Also, since my Springer is already parkerized, would I need to re-parkerize it, or is what I have on it good enough?

[stans]

Factory parkerizing should be fine as a primer for GunKote, just make sure you get absolutely all of the oil out of the parkerized finish (it literally soaks up and retains oil, that's what makes it a corrosion resistant finish) and then GunKote it immediately before the now oil free parkerized finish can start soaking up moisture. My experience with the baked on finishes is that they work, but will chip and wear around the sharp edges, but then so will blueing.

[CaptainSKA]

Other than leaving it in my holster for days on end and ruining it (by letting it soak up all the oil), how do I get the oil out of my parked finish?

[Hawkmoon]

Other than leaving it in my holster for days on end and ruining it (by letting it soak up all the oil), how do I get the oil out of my parked finish?
Automotive brake cleaner.

Wear surgical gloves, and use it outdoors or where there is GOOD ventilation.

[Deacon Aegis]

Other than leaving it in my holster for days on end and ruining it (by letting it soak up all the oil), how do I get the oil out of my parked finish?

If break cleaner isn't your gig, another way is to mix TSP in water, bring it to a boil, watch the oil pour right out of the metal.

(Hehe I did the break cleaner the second time around though because pulling the oil-free hot steel out of a water/TSP bath would give me fits of frustration on flash drying and leaving oxidation marks if I wasn't immediately dunking the steel into a muratic acid bath, flash drying with de-ionized rinse and spraying with a hold until I could hit the park tanks.. major pain unless you're already lined out to process front to back. ;)

[CaptainSKA]

Back to my question though... Is this home bake stuff my only option if I want that "blued" look (other than actual blueing)? I've heard some reports that the DIY stuff doesn't hold up that well. Is that true?

[Deacon Aegis]

CaptainSKA,
Here's a thread from late in January where quite a bit of consideration was given to various cold blue and alternative coating techniques, maybe this will help.

http://forum.m1911.org/showthread.php?t=10504