Ultrasonic 1, cheap bluing 0

[webtaz99]

My barrel came from a Sarco parts kit, and it was "blued", but they must have used watercolor. I ran the barrel through 2 cycles of 6 minutes in my ultrasonic cleaner using 50% vinegar in water. The inside came out awesome - it looks new again. But the "blue" came off too!

[vesmcd]

Uh, Hello!! vineger is ACID!!!! Does a fine job of taking off bluing.

[webtaz99]

This vinegar is 3%, cut to 1.5%. I would expect something that's supposed to protect steel to be tougher.

Anyway, I think it's funny. Obviously if I cared about looks I wouldn't use Essex OR Sarco parts.

[vesmcd]

That does seem pretty weak to be taking taking off the bluing, but what's done is done. There is always cold blue. My personal fave is 44-40 brand. Works best if you heat the parts with a hair dryer before applying.

[Ericthenorse]

Try this place... http://www.blindhogg.com/ He has a good recipy for bluing salts that uses nitrate of soda instead of amonia nitrate.. Not quite as toxic, cheaper, and can be done on your stove...

[mike h. buness]

I checked out the site Ericthenorse posted and found it very interesting. Has anyone tried this bluing method for results? My #1 priority is resistance to wear closely followed by the ability to preserve detail and leave any mat surface un-effected. I'll try this method to see how it goes, on scrap steel first. Mike.

[deezulsmoke]

I have used something similar. Bluing is not the best choice for wear. In order of wear resistance:
Parkerizing
Bluing
Paint jobs (Gun-Kote, Dura Coat, Kimber coat etc..)
Black T, NP3, Ceramicoat etc..
Nickel
Hard Chrome
Hard chrome is expensive. Cannot do it at home. If you want the best protection in a home capable finish, then a good bead blast with aluminum oxide, followed by Parkerizing then a bake on or air dry paint job is one of the better ways to go. If you can afford it and really want it to wear, then hard chrome cannot be beat.

Deez.

[Hawkmoon]

I've done both a frame and a slide (not on the same gun) using Brownells' "Oxpho Blue" cold bluing solution. I think it came out far better than any cold blue has a right to and I would certainly suggest it for something like a barrel.

[webtaz99]

Thanks for the info, but I'm just going to leave this barrel raw until I replace it.

That shouldn't be long, 'cause this barrel is garbage anyway.

My whole reason for building my first 1911 was to learn my lessons on cheap parts.

One day I will build a new one, the way I want, and it will work well and look good. Until then I'll shoot my "El Pinche".

[Hawkmoon]

Thanks for the info, but I'm just going to leave this barrel raw until I replace it.

That shouldn't be long, 'cause this barrel is garbage anyway.

My whole reason for building my first 1911 was to learn my lessons on cheap parts.

One day I will build a new one, the way I want, and it will work well and look good. Until then I'll shoot my "El Pinche".
I did the same thing, for the same reason.

In my case, it appears the whole is greater than the sum of the parts, because the pistol seems fairly reliable and more than sufficiently accurate for either casual range work or self-defense.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/AguilaBlanca/100-0092_IMG.jpg

[brickeyee]

"I would expect something that's supposed to protect steel to be tougher."

Blueing does not provide much protection at all. It is a thin surface layer of iron 'rusted' in the presence of an atom that attaches and prevents the immediate formation of oxide (good old rust).
The oil wiped on is the real protection. I have a number of 'bright' guns, including an 1866 trapdoor. There is very little surface damage at all on the 1866. It was yellow with oil hardened into varnish when I purchased it.

A thin bluing job is easy to remove, even with a weak acid.

[Ericthenorse]

Hard chrome can be done at home, but it gets a little expensive if you just want to do one gun... These guys.. http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/index.html sell all the home plating kits you will ever need... It is not hard to produce good looking hard chrome, it is the prep work that makes it cost a lot... These guys sell the EXACT same chemicals that are used by places like Tripp research, just on a much smaller scale. I have ordered the HC kit from these guys, and as soon as I get some time, and get my power suply fixed, I will be HCing my Winchester model 12.. I will be sure to give a review... I have also used the bluing recipy that I linked to before, but I already sold that one... :D

[stans]

I did the same thing, for the same reason.

In my case, it appears the whole is greater than the sum of the parts, because the pistol seems fairly reliable and more than sufficiently accurate for either casual range work or self-defense.

http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e193/AguilaBlanca/100-0092_IMG.jpg
Looks nice, Hawkmoon, but I think your pistol has developed some sort of tumor on its dust cover. I suggest you take it to a gun doctor before it speads any further. :D