Slide release problem

[DanR]

After cleaning my Springfield 1911-A1 I found that the slide release will not release if there is a mag in the gun. If I move the slide slightly to the rear of the gun then the slide release will work. So, what is wrong and how do I fix it?

Another problem, I am building a 1911 and got a parts kit yesterday. How do I "force" the two parts onto the mainspring before inserting them into the mainspring housing. They just will not go on. Even when I oiled them up really good, nothing. Needless to say, my fingers are very sore.

Thanks in advance.

[swampertwo]

You are trying to overcome both the friction/recoil spring and the magazine spring when you try to 'release' the slide that way. The lever is a slide STOP, not a slide release-best to always 'slingshot' the slide by pulling the slide back as far as it will go and release it to chamber a round. If lowering the slide on an empty chamber, pull back, hold the slide stop down and ease the slide forward till it goes to the battery position. Never let the slide slam on an empty chamber.
The mainspring housing pin and cap are just stubborn little devils that you just have to work at to get snapped into the spring. Keep working at it.
Jeff

[Tom]

After cleaning my Springfield 1911-A1 I found that the slide release will not release if there is a mag in the gun. If I move the slide slightly to the rear of the gun then the slide release will work. So, what is wrong and how do I fix it?

I assume you're seeing this problem with an empty magazine and not a loaded one?

[Pappy]

How do I "force" the two parts onto the mainspring before inserting them into the mainspring housing. They just will not go on. Even when I oiled them up really good, nothing. Needless to say, my fingers are very sore.

Thanks in advance.

Try clamping a suitable punch in a bench vise. Hold parts in the correct posisition and the using the punch as a third hand push together and secure with the cross pin.
Remember to wear a face shield!!!!!!!!!!!
Pappy

[Azrael256]

Try clamping a suitable punch in a bench vise. That's really good advice. Do not, I repeat, NOT place the housing end-down on the bench, insert the spring and retainer, slip the cap in, and then try to push the whole thing in with a punch. You won't hurt the parts if you do, but you will likely end up with a spring cap shaped bruise on your forehead, a mainspring housing under the bench, and you'll spend the rest of the afternoon searching for the spring.

Or so I hear.

[SharkZF6]

As others pointed out, this is a slide “stop” not “release”. If you want to lower the slide with an empty magazine or no magazine, simply push the slide towards the hammer. The notch in the slide for the catch is designed such that it will push the slide stop down automatically. This makes it a one handed operation so to speak (your other hand should be on the grip). So, push it back, watch the slide stop magically move out of the way, then release it forward maintaining a firm hold on it. Never release it or let go of it so it slams home on an empty chamber.

[Pappy]

Good advice Shark. But with a magazine in place, the slide will continue to lock back. Best to remove the mag...Pappy

[Chieftain]

RE: Release of the slide.

The early Army manuals are specific about using the slide lock to release the slide.

Now we are told to only sling shot the slide. I thought there was a reason the pistol is called a HANDgun and not a HANDSgun.

I have been shooting for only about 50 years, and have always used the slide lock with Semi Auto pistols. Haven't had any down side that I could tell yet. I don't doubt with low quality weapons/parts there maybe problems with the steel, but with modern quality pistols, I don't see it.

Just exactly what is the problem. Modern Steel not up to the wear and tear on the part or the slides?

Go figure

[scooter]

That's really good advice. Do not, I repeat, NOT place the housing end-down on the bench, insert the spring and retainer, slip the cap in, and then try to push the whole thing in with a punch. You won't hurt the parts if you do, but you will likely end up with a spring cap shaped bruise on your forehead, a mainspring housing under the bench, and you'll spend the rest of the afternoon searching for the spring.

Or so I hear.
That was said almost like the voice of experience.......http://forum.m1911.org/images/icons/icon10.gif

[Jammer Six]

I never sling shot the slide. Hitting the slide stop is much faster, as it can be done while getting back on target.

[1911Tuner]

The slide should allow release and reliable fed/return to battery no matther which way it occurs. The slidestops have been checkered/serrated since production began...for a reason. If the pistol won't reliably return to battery
with a slidestop trip/release, it's a malfunction.

Installing mainspring housing internals is best done by clamping the housing itself in the vise...behind the rib... and using needle-nosed pliers to depress the spring and cap. Be sure that the bottom of the housing is bearing on solid footing to prevent slippage. Bottom supported...Rib against the sides of the vise jaws=solid mount.
No problems!

[DanR]

Thanks for all the information. As to the slide stop/release, and I found it listed both ways in Brownells catalog last night, it is hard to release even with a loaded mag. I practice releasing an unloaded mag from a slide retracted position and loading a full mag, with dummy rounds in it, and then release the slide to reload the gun. Releasing the slide with just the thumb of my right hand is hard, and this has just started to occur, therefore the original question.

As to the mainspring housing build up, I used my 5/32 punch inserted in the end of the spring to "open up" the end of the spring a little. With my punch I just attempted to get the point of the punch in to the forth "loop" of the spring. Both parts then went in with a little effort. I then used my 5/32 punch to push down the spring assembly into the housing and inserted the retaining pin. Easy, once I figured out how to do it.

Now a new question, what is the "size" of the barrel link pin? The one that came with this kit measures out at the same size as an "oversize" pin that Brownell's sells. Is it "allowed" for me to "open up" the holes in the underside of the barrel with a round file so the "oversize" pin will go in? The difference is about .10mm to .12mm. I know it does not sound like much, but the pin will not go in even after hard hits on the end of the punch with a hammer.

Again, thanks in advance.

[Azrael256]

If you're having trouble getting the link pin to go in, you probably need a standard pin. I got the complete pin set from Wilson for about $15, so if you're after just that one part, the stamp to send it will cost more than the pin. You might have gotten the wrong pin.

When I changed mine (incident to changing the link for a beefier SS part), it took some stout whacks to drive it in and out. It's a press-fit part. It should not just drop in, but it shouldn't require a 12lb. sledge to move it. I would not enlarge the pin holes in the barrel unless they are smaller than standard, and even then, I would probably lap them instead of filing. If your new pin mikes too big, it might just be the wrong part.

[DanR]

I have a Wilson replacement parts "kit" that also contains a link pin. It measures the same as the one that came with the complete build up parts kit. The hole on the underside of the barrel is between 1.6mm and 1.7mm. The pins are both 1.9mm+. Is there supposed to be that much difference between the size of the hole and the pin? I also measured the hole in my Springfield barrel and it measures out to the same size as the new barrel. Has anyone used a vise to "push" this pin in?

[swampertwo]

All the barrel link pins I've measured run about .155inch/3.935mm diameter. they are a tight fit and you will normally find the lugs 'stake punched' after installation to keep them in. I don't know what you are measuring at 1.7mm. The ends of the pin are tapered and I use a small ballpeen hammer to start into the lug, then install and hold the link while tapping in.
Jeff

[DanR]

Sorry, my miss print. It should read 3.7mm and that is the inside diamater of the hole under the barrel the link pin goes into. The pins are both over 3.9mm. I have been using a plastic mallet and a pin punch, 5/32, to attempt to drive it in. No luck. Will try the ballpeen this weekend. Thanks!

[Azrael256]

DanR, do you have a bench block? If not, installing the pin is a two-man job involving curved kelly forceps and a whole lot of profanity.

[DanR]

Azrael256, I do have a bench block. But I used a vise instead. Just for the exercise I use my micrometer to measure the size of the two pins I have. One was 2/1000 of an inch smaller that the other so I used that one. It was still a "job" to get the pin through. In the end I had to file and hone the end of the pin as it would just not go in all the way, no matter how hard I tried to force it. But now it does fit in my new slide and the link moves freely.

Thanks to all who took the time to give advice. Still working on the stop/release problem. I know I will have more questions as I get further into it.

[brickeyee]

What did you use to measure hole diameter?
A dial caliper does notmeasure small holes very accurately.
A set of gauge pins are used if you want an accurate answer.
Link pins are pretty snug in the hole to try and eliminate the need for staking.
The link rotates on the pin, but the pin is intended to be fixed.

[DanR]

My slide caliper does not have a dial. However, it does have an "inside measure" knife on the top. That is what I used to measure the holes. The pin is in and the link rotates freely. Fits the frame well. Locks up with the slide stop. So everything with that is good.

Played with the slide stop/release on my Springfield and found that if I push down on the top of the mag with my finger and, while holding the slide tightly with my left hand, hit the stop/release with my left thumb, I can get it to release. It now releases the slide with a loaded mag. Seems like the piece on top of the spring in the mag, sorry, can't think of the part name right now, is causing the problem. But after checking all of my mags I find that it is a "universal" problem. Unless I can figure something else, I will just have to learn to live with it. :(